yamaha6611

ha nice, well then i may need to cash out a little more for the turbo, no way a cdm turbo is going on my car.. i want that 300whp but with the right stuff.. looks like ill be searching for that 20g...

what is MHI??


and i wouldnt be able to really tell between a fake or real dsm turbo, so if anyone has any links to a "how to spot a fake" type of writeup, that would be great

i dont trust ebay at all...

and also, if anyones got any turbos for sale let me know


thanks,

matt

zrCREAM

check goldfarb (store name: turbochargers and diesel injection) on ebay cheap *** turbos i got my hx40 thats on my dsm for like 145 bucks. most have a ungodly large turbine housing made for a diesel but i have seen a t3 20g for a typhoon on there a little while back for 120 bucks plan on picking up one of the et bw s200's that he has.

http://stores.ebay.com/TURBOCHARGER-...ESEL-INJECTION

---- just sell the 14b and re-flange your mani

crx2211

MHI is Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. So in other words; a genuine turbo. It's very easy to spot a fake. Almost every one I've seen says TURBOCHARGER on it. The knock-off 16g's have an adjustable actuator arm and don't have TD05H stamped on the compressor housing. Just get a part number off the turbo; that guarantees authenticity. I'm seeing some crazy fakes nowadays though. The Chinese are getting good with aluminum casting and are making dead on Garrett compressor housings. Those turbos don't have a Garrett part number though. If you really want a 20G; I have one, but I'm not selling it for $200. Now doubt Garrett t3/t4 is better, but if you're going to stay Mitsu; the 20G is great for a street car. PM me if you want.

Hitchhikkr

Mitsubishi Heavy Industries

All ive ever ran are mitsu turbos until recently. However, I strongly feel they are nowhere near the reliability of a properly sized garrett or BW turbo.

The 20g isnt going to last nearly as long as a big 16g. Both have the fail-*** small turbine shaft thats half the size it should be.

Unless you already have a dsm based exhaust manifold, go with the garrett stuff.

Even if you do have a mitsu-feces mani, get something with a garrett based compressor and CHRA. Slowboy's M57/M60 turbos were ------- indestructable and made mad power.

zrCREAM

Or get one of BEP SS DSM housings and rock a holset

Hitchhikkr

The problem still remains though. The ------- fail mitsu hot-side. The same reason a .63 a/r T3 hotside will outflow the mitsu 8cm housing.

Holsets FTMFW!!!

zrCREAM

Like i said scrap the dsm flange and run a t3 flange..... then go out and get yourself a holset and the bep .70a/r t3 hotside and get rid of that failing dsm bullshit

yamaha6611

see are ther dsm/MHI turbos really that bad? i can upgrade later, i just want my build done in the next month or so... im shooting for anything over 300whp, on the second map, im running a 2 timer remember.. i will only boost daily driving (which will be once every 2 weeks) at 10 pounds of boost, and when i get ancy hit the switch to run the say 17 pound map, and crank up my boost controller. so the turbo will only be actually used at defenately less than what its capable of doing (cause im not boosting past 20psi) and itll only make me what probably 320-330whp cause im not going to use race gas either.. 93 only..

im thinking for what i want, itll be real reliable.. lemme knwo what you think

thanks,

matt

crx2211

The DSM bolt-on housing for Garretts and Holsets are aftermarket and not Mitsubishi. No doubt they suck ***. If you're going to go Garrett; run the Garrett turbine housing too. The 7cm Mitsu housing isn't bad at all, especially ported properly. It's almost identical to the .48 a/r in terms of volume and what not. 20psi is doable on a 16g, but is still running it pretty hard. They'll last a long time at 20psi though. That's right about 300whp, probably a little less. A 20G can make 300whp at lower boost, so really is a good alternative to a Garrett. Mitsu turbos aren't bad at all for low(ish) boost street set-ups. They're oil/water cooled and have a better thrust set-up than a stock Garrett turbo. 14b's go for 200k miles all the time at 10psi and 16g's go for 150k or so at OEM levels as high as 17psi. The 20G doesn't come on any cars that I know of stock (17c on the Typhoon and Syclone is damn close) , but I'm sure the diesel trucks it comes off go for a ton of miles at relatively high boost. The Garrett turbos have much thicker shafts though, so if you're wanting to make lots of power or run high boost; I'd put my money on Garrett. Nothing wrong with a Mitsu turbo though. Garrett and Mitsu turbos are definitely the top 2 "name brand" turbos. At least IMO and experience.

Hitchhikkr

+1 I partially agree with you.

Actually, the 20G isnt a real turbo. Mistubishi never made anything called a '20g' There is a tdo6H compressor (with a td05h centersection) and various forms of the 17c and 18g, but the '20g' is not a factory mhi turbo. Its an 18g with a bigger compressor wheel somebody made back in the day, and has evolved to what it is now. An overpriced, poorly engineered hybrid.

MHI turbos will last a minute at lower boost levels, I agree. But its a well known problem that the turbine shaft is about half the size it should be. Most of the ppl on this board who run a MHI turbo are in the sub-300hp range, and have no problems. Above that for any amount of time the turbo wont last. I untill recently had a pile of random MHI turbos, and, was at one point making one turbo from three. Trust me though, they do fail.

The price of the MHI turbos VS. the price for the equivelent Garrett unit makes me lean towards the more abundant, better parts market turbo.

The mitsu-feces exhaust housing simply does not have the flow capability of a t3, unless extensively modified.

crx2211, im not trying to argue with you, but you cant put an MHI turbo in the same boat as a Garrett or BW turbo. Price, reliability, function, all fall to the latter two. Thats my opinion based on my personal experience.