Slo_crx1

I'll have to agree with crx2211 on this one...I've also run countless 14b's on different setups and have never had one creep, using either the stock actuator or the carb spring. The only time I've ever had an issue with a 14b was when I smacked a "speedbump" in the middle of the highway and crushed my dp flat, and even then it didn't creep, just toast my hg from all the backpressure.

LittleHag

Thanks for the input, I think im gonna try the stock actuator for now. I think somone said the stock one was 10-12lbs? I've heard they're 9, or even 8 from other sources. Would someone like to clear this up? I plan on running a bc either way.

crx2211

Wastegate is 8 IIRC, but the use of a BCS raises the pressure in a DSM.

LittleHag

so basically I can't go any lower than 8psi with the internal? I plan on running 8-10, maybe more, just depends on how my engine takes to it. I should be fine at 10 but I guess we'll see.

crx2211

With the stock actuator no you can't. There are ways to get around it though like the carb spring or the length of the actuator arm, but since the one off the 14b isn't adjustable it would be cut/weld time. Less than 8psi is pointless anyway. I'd say set it at 10 and see how it goes from there.

LittleHag

I just found out when I tried to put it back together after cleaning it, that the actuator was dropped or mishandled before I recieved it. I didn't look at it close enough i guess, the vacuum line was bent when I got it, and just bent it back and didn't think to look any closer. The whole actuator is bent causing the spring to already be depressed a bit, this is what is causing my wastegate to be stuck open. I have the ability to cut and weld, i work at a welding shop.

My question is... Will this actuator still open as far as I want it to? or, should I just replace it with a new/used one? If i can get my camara charged I will try to take pictures.

Slo_crx1

Replace it. Don't even bother hacking into a bent up actuator, it'll just cause you headaches.

Schwitzer Turbo

14B Performance?

Hey hey all i have always seen this 14B turbo term being thrown around the Web and i thought it was a tdo4 14b which is a Small wheel. 13T = Garrett T2.5(13T is Fsr Superior tho)

anyway so now everyone on HMT is using these turbo's. So now i just check the Tech Specs on the 14B and i see its a tdo5, now i know a Tdo5 turbo is bigger than a tdo4. all the racers(1600/1500/1400/1300cc) normily run the tdo4h 15t/15g in my country with great results. then you get the custom made 16t(despite volvo having this turbo on there new cars).and the Mythical 18t/19t.

The super hardcore's breaking the Records all run the 18T(its there Secret Weapon).
i have had a 13t,15t and now a 16t and every upgrade the car pulled 100% better more power faster spool from this perspective why wouly you wanna run a tdo5(bigger) and a 14b wheel(smaller)= that should = one sucky turbo unless im missing sumthing.

I heard the 2000cc boys talk about a tdo5 20T surely that should be better than a 14b(or am i misisng sumthing?)

I kno

LittleHag

1-its easy to find
2-very cheap
3-with all the people using them it's easy to find info on installing them, espically since it's going into a civic and not a mitsu.
4-thats what I bought.

I want to find a new actuator if anyone has one I have a post in the wanted section.. thanks.

EDIT: I only want to run about 10psi, this turbo is about perfect for that.

Slo_crx1

14b's are found on our US model 1st gen eclipses, so they're usually pretty plentiful and cheap. Not a bad turbo for a light d-series build either. The full notation of the turbo is Tdo5h 14b 6cm^2, tdo5h referring the the exhaust wheel and the h meaning high output. The tdo5h wheel is still in use in newer Evo's as well, only exception being it's a reverse rotation wheel than it's predecessor (denoted by tdo5hr). It's not so much the wheel that affects spool time and flow, but rather the housing size (in cm squared). That particular wheel could be compared to Garrett's .63 a/r wheel setup when used in a 7cm^2 housing (found on 16g's) and the newer MHI turbos (read evo8 and 9) use either a 9.8cm^2 housing or a 10.5cm^2, effectively increasing the flow through the hotside while maintaining good spool up characteristics. The larger housings are mainly used for higher boost pressures though, as the smaller housings will have too much back pressure.