14b turbo
#21
Re: 14b turbo
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
Mega old-school. ----, back then I had to make my own hf to 14b adapter plate since at the time no one offered one for sale. This is going back to the late 90's when fmu's and retarded dizzys ruled the honda boost world, even ghettodyne was still in it's infancy.
less pre-load, less boost
#22
Re: 14b turbo
Originally Posted by Braineack
less pre-load, less boost
#23
Re: 14b turbo
when i had my 14b hf setup on my d16 crx i didnt really have any problems fitting the wastegate. i had to put a minor dent in crossmemeber, but nothing that was that big of a deal. those internal wastegates are pretty small
#24
Re: 14b turbo
Originally Posted by turboedhonda1990
when i had my 14b hf setup on my d16 crx i didnt really have any problems fitting the wastegate. i had to put a minor dent in crossmemeber, but nothing that was that big of a deal. those internal wastegates are pretty small
#25
Re: 14b turbo
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
Lol surprised you guys never heard of the carb spring trick, that one's an oldy that works well. Basically you take off your stock wg actuator (stock 14b one is usually around 10-12psi anyway, and you'd have to bend the bracket that mounts to the compressor in order to crack the wg flapper open to lower your boost psi but at a loss of spool time) and replace it with those cheapo dual carburetor springs you can find at most any auto parts store. Take the smaller hook ends and stick them on the wg flapper arm and figure a way to secure them so they don't pop off (I usually just take safety wire and wrap it through the cotter pin hole and around the spring hook ends to hold them) and stretch the springs to a spot (I think I hooked mine around one of the water lines the first time and went to the oil inlet line after that) that puts a little bit of tension on them. Start out slowly with the springs looser to see what pressure it hits, and slowly stretch it a little bit more or less for more or less boost pressure. Once you find the psi you want to run, just leave it there. Opens up a lot of space that used to be taken up by the wastegate since the way we usually mount 14b's with hf mani's means the wg is on the backside and you don't have to deal with overboosting or hard spikes from stock wastegates. It uses the exhaust pressure to push the flapper open on it's own, and if a spring pops off you never have to worry about an overboost situation since the flapper will just fully open once the exhaust hits it.
#26
Re: 14b turbo
Well if the snap ring is off and you can get the flapper to seal then I say use the stock wastegate actuator. I see no reason to get rid of a perfectly good actuator in favor of a carb spring set-up. The only reason I could see it being a good option is if space is an issue. It doesn't matter if it's a low psi actuator as you can use an mbc. Just close the flapper, stick the actuator arm on the flapper arm and then rotate the housing until the actuator lines up and the flapper is shut. Then bolt the actuator back down to the comp housing and you're done.
#27
Re: 14b turbo
Originally Posted by LittleHag
Sounds like a pretty good method. Just curious, would this cause boost creep? Like when you're in second or third and mash on the gas and all that exhaust hits the flapper. Maybe not, just wondering what you think. I got the snap ring off by the way. I had to use some 2ft pliers but they worked like a charm.
#28
Re: 14b turbo
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
No boost creep at all. Once the exhaust pressure pushes the flapper open it pretty much regulates itself against whatever the spring tension is. I'll admit it sounds pretty ghetto, but in my experience it worked extremely well...a lot better than most of the actuated setups I've ran.
but it wont be cuz of the carb spring
youll get boost creep if the stock waste gate cant flow enough
i had this problem with my z6 and HM manifold
even running open turbo (no DP or dump tube) and the waste gate flapper wired open i got 14 psi of boost a wot in my power band
#29
Re: 14b turbo
So you're saying you got creep because the flapper hole wasn't big enough? At 14psi? I'd say that was a defect because I've ran countless 14b's at way higher than 14psi and never had them creep. If the flapper is opening a fully to 90 degrees, the flapper hole is more than ample to expel any/all the exhaust gases the little turbo can muster even maxed out. Your flapper probably wasn't opening all the way which made it creep. I'd say that could be more of an issue with the carb spring set-up if you initially had it too tight. I'd say stick with the stock actuator until it's proven faulty which I have only seen happen once and it was damaged.