Yes

 

^^^ lol

are the 90s galvanized??

 

nah no galvanized. In the plumbing industry they call it "black steel" but I'm pretty sure its just a mild steel.
Got the flanges welded on yesterday, will post up pics later today. Turned out pretty good.

 

Haha back when I was younger my parents bought an rv that had serious driveshaft issues, i.e. the u joints etc. So when my dad finally took the thing in to have the joints and stuff fixed (after a road trip that included replacing u- joints in a walmart parking lot in alabama)...all the guys started laughing hysterically. Apparently the damn driveshaft was made from black steel piping, with ends welded on. No wonder it wouldn't balance.

 

Im in for the updates........

 

Been a busy weekend! Got the manifold made, then my buddies and I decided we should try and get the turbo spinning this weekend too. So we made a down pipe, ran the oil feed and return lines, and fired it up. I'll let the pictures do the talking.
































The downpipe is touching the clutch bleed screw; will this cause any problems?

There was a LOT of smoke when we first started it up. Drove around on it a bit and the manifold started turning blue as seen in the last pics, but no worries. Had to make a copper gasket for the downpipe to seal it to the turbo better. It works pretty well, but could stand to be widened a bit more. Have the wastegate held open so the turbo won't spool too fast while driving. I'll just try to keep it under 4k rpms and part throttle. Downpipe is leaky as anything where it meets the cat, but I didn't spend a lot of time on that since I'll probably want to "upgrade" the cat. Any suggestions for a temporary fix?

 

Just grab a hammer and give the down pipe a little smack untill it clears your bleader screw on your clutch master cyl.

 

I didn't really get any other good pics while I was cutting for the flange.
I made 4 cuts with the angle grinder. Two parallel to the manifold and one perpendicular on the left and one perpendicular on the right.

The two parallel cuts were spaced according to the inside opening of the flange.

The left and right cuts were spaced to the outer dimensions of the flange.

Then I ground the parallel cuts to a flat-ish surface.

Set the flange in between the left and right cuts and snug it against the parallel cuts and weld in place. Had a good weld area all the way around.
One spot of trouble was that some of the bolt holes on the flange slightly connected through to the inside of the manifold. I just welded over the backs of the offending holes to seal them up. That's the second bead on the left side of the flange that you can see.

 

the smoke is probably nothing. a lot of times its from all of the body oils on the exhaust parts. it will burn off. if it never goes away, then start looking into it

 

hmt for sure

good work with that flange. i was thinking of doing something like that with my mani, but the extra height gained when recessing the flange into the log cost me some clearance i needed


those straight copper oil lines?