The $40 AC Compatible Log Manifold
10-18-2008, 01:32 AM
#42
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 283
Re: The $40 AC Compatible Log Manifold
what fittings did u use on the oil feed? brake line fittings?
and is it just a standard flare used on that line?
I like ur $40 manifold. You did good....how bout u finish up and post some ripper vids?
and is it just a standard flare used on that line?
I like ur $40 manifold. You did good....how bout u finish up and post some ripper vids?
10-18-2008, 12:36 PM
#43
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St. Augustine FL
Posts: 3,936
Re: The $40 AC Compatible Log Manifold
since oil lines are low pressure, a standard brake flare will work. my oil line is an aluminum hardline with a brake flare on an -an fitting. its not the right angle, but you wont have any problems
11-08-2008, 01:45 PM
#44
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 590
Re: The $40 AC Compatible Log Manifold
Just out of curiosity, where is the condensing coil fan? Your A/C system will not achieve any realistic subcool in any ambient heat without one. You might as well remove the entire A/C.
Other than that, goodluck.
Other than that, goodluck.
11-08-2008, 01:55 PM
#45
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,349
Re: The $40 AC Compatible Log Manifold
Originally Posted by BigJ
Just out of curiosity, where is the condensing coil fan? Your A/C system will not achieve any realistic subcool in any ambient heat without one. You might as well remove the entire A/C.
Other than that, goodluck.
Other than that, goodluck.
That mani is beautiful.
11-08-2008, 10:09 PM
#49
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,811
Re: The $40 AC Compatible Log Manifold
Well, yes, but mostly no for all the other reasons.
1) Even tho it's called Black Iron Pipe (BIP), it's not iron. It's a very low quality mild steel.
Lot of people dont know that about BIP.
2) If it was truely cast iron, nearly no DIY'ers are not going to have 1/10th the skill or patience to run a smaw/flux ni filler correctly. Or a way to pre-heat it correctly LoL! So that rules out alot of people ever using it.
3)Its been done enough times before with flux and worked. The flux wire (hopefully ER71T-7 or similar) isn't the immediate concern at this point if it ever will be.
This one will fail not from the filler metal, but from:
How much of that is lacking good penitration? (alot of that is cold)
How much of his cold-lap that's visible & covered is going to bust?
All the welds are undersized
How many inclusions can we not see?
If his filler is not ER71T-7, there is a strong possibility that it was meant to be used as a spray transfer. Meaning it will never get hot enough on that little machine. Many volts and many amps from ever being spray, let alone make it into atleast nasty *** globular.
Next person attempting this with these couplers.
Here are your instructions:
His problem more than anything is a major lack of penitration. He just butted the pipes together and went at it. The safe bet would be if we cut each of those joints on a saw they might pen 25% of what they should at most.
Manifold is still cool, Im just saying for the next guy, or god forbid if this one fails early... There's how you should do it.
1) Even tho it's called Black Iron Pipe (BIP), it's not iron. It's a very low quality mild steel.
Lot of people dont know that about BIP.2) If it was truely cast iron, nearly no DIY'ers are not going to have 1/10th the skill or patience to run a smaw/flux ni filler correctly. Or a way to pre-heat it correctly LoL! So that rules out alot of people ever using it.
3)Its been done enough times before with flux and worked. The flux wire (hopefully ER71T-7 or similar) isn't the immediate concern at this point if it ever will be.
This one will fail not from the filler metal, but from:
How much of that is lacking good penitration? (alot of that is cold)
How much of his cold-lap that's visible & covered is going to bust?
All the welds are undersized
How many inclusions can we not see?
If his filler is not ER71T-7, there is a strong possibility that it was meant to be used as a spray transfer. Meaning it will never get hot enough on that little machine. Many volts and many amps from ever being spray, let alone make it into atleast nasty *** globular.
Next person attempting this with these couplers.
Here are your instructions:
- Tack it together WITHOUT attaching it to the flange
- Take an angle grinder and grind a U bevel at each of your welds 3/4 of the way through the pieces. This includes your T flange to 90* bend pipe joints
- Re-tack after you run over a tack so it doesn't fall apart
- For the root pass, on a scrap piece set the wirefeed/amps up all the way, or almost all the way. Set the voltage until it runs as smoothe as possible (near max top)
- With the correct electrode angles, Run your root pass, RATHER TOO SLOW AND BUILT UP THAN TOO fast or the WRONG ANGLE
- Take your grinder and grind THE ENTIRE WELD FACE back down to a U shape
- Repeat until your welds are nearly flush, once so, back your welder down on your scrap piece until you can actually control what you're doing and do your cap pass
- Again take your welder, to your original root settings, and weld into the flange
- Drop the settings back down again (if you are not comfortable with what you are doing)
- WITHOUT welding into the bolt area... Weld one pass at the bottom toe of the previous weld (the bottom edge touching the flange)
- Power brush, scaler, or grind just the top toe of the weld you just made down
- Weld that, call it done
His problem more than anything is a major lack of penitration. He just butted the pipes together and went at it. The safe bet would be if we cut each of those joints on a saw they might pen 25% of what they should at most.
Manifold is still cool, Im just saying for the next guy, or god forbid if this one fails early... There's how you should do it.
