Wideopentuning

This was approved by ABAZ

Ok guys I am looking to help Devils Own get there name out.
I have personally installed a few of these kits and the results have been awesome. I have a stock looking Neon SRT4 running around Denver with one that makes well over 400 whp on pump gas on the stock block. The car gets driven hard every single day and never misses a beat. Intake temps stay at ambient while making long 3rd adn 4th gear pulls to redline while the factory ecu allows 30 degrees of timing with 0 knock retard. Pre Devils Own the ecu would allow 22-24 degrees. Its really a no brainer mod to gain some nice power and safety. Standalone/multiple map guys, how about being able to use your race gas program daily while running pump gas? There have been gains seen as high as 100 whp using this kit.
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/for...read.php?t=290

For those of you who aren't familiar with water injection and its benefits, check out this link.
http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/WaterInjection.html

Anyways I will cut to the chase.
The basic kits will be $175 shipped and the progressive kits with a controller will be $270 shipped.
Cars that don't have a map sensor and want to ramp water vs boost need a 2 or 3 bar map sensor and harness which can be had for another $65



Here are result from an Audi S4 2.7 Bi-Turbo. He is running K04/RS6 hybrid turbos, 22 psi on 91 octane. All pulls were made in 3rd gear. Running the dual 5 gph nozzless and the 2 bar progressive controller.








Paypal is my prefered method of payment..I have over 100 transactions there.
My Ebay name is MKIIIVR6 if you want to check up on me. I have over 100 Positive feedback there.
I am on AIM and MSN all day long. My name is Wideopentuning on there as well
You can email me at Wideopentuning@gmail.com. Thanks Kelly

ryan89crx

how about a little better description of your poduct? like how everything works in conjunction with Honda ecus and whatnot...

i understand there is a controller, but what are all the functions/features?

what gph nozzle does it come with? is there a tank?

there are a ton of other things that could be asked...

Wideopentuning

Ok no problem. No tank is included but they are available. I like to use factory washer fluid bottles so that you have an in dash indicator to let you know when you are running low on fluid. With the basic kit there is no interfacing needed with the ecu. An adjustable pressure switch grounds the relay for the pump and begins the flow of water/meth.

The progressive controller can use any 0-5Volt input to trigger the start of water flow. This means 2 or 3 bar map sensors or even throttle position can be used. The benefit over the basic kit is being able to choose at what boost water starts to flow as well as being able to control how quick the water flow ramps up with boost all from inside the car.
Here is the description off of Devils Own Website
Progressive Alcohol Controller General Operation:

On power up the unit will blink the yellow led indicating what BAR setting the unit is setup for.
2 blinks is 2 BAR
3 blinks is 3 BAR

Then the unit will read the dial settings and calculate the slope of the progressive control.

Map voltage is read and converted to a boost value
Pump duty cycle is calculated based on dial settings and slope

When boost PSI reaches the START setting the pump will come on with a 15% duty cycle
It will ramp up to 100% as boost approaches FULL setting.
The pump voltage percentage will increase with a 0.2 pound increase in boost.
This means the voltage will step up 5 times over an increase of 1 PSI making a very linear response curve

For ease of adjustment, each dial has 21 settings that are incremental
There is a setting for every hash mark and another setting in-between each
Having the arrow close to a setting will provide the exact setting.

For example the 12 o'clock position on the START dial of a 2 BAR unit is a PSI setting of 7
It will also be a 7 if the arrow is 6 degrees to right (or left) of 12 o'clock
once it is beyond half way to the middle the setting will be 7.5PSI
This allows the user to easily set the unit to exact values without having to be fussy with the dial

For reference the Dial settings for each version are as follows:
If the FULL setting is set to a lower PSI than the START setting, the start setting will be ignored and the pump will switch on to 100% when PSI is above FULL setting and will switch off when it is below the FULL setting.


In order to prevent loading down the MAP sensor signal, the voltage input to the controller is left floating. This means that tapping into the stock MAP sensor that is connected to your cars computer will not effect the MAP voltage.

However, if the MAP input wire (green) is left disconnected, sampled voltage will be erratic and therefore pump output voltage will be erratic.

LEDs:

RED - power led - It will be illuminated anytime there is power applied to the pink wire and the black wire is grounded.

GREEN - This led will light up proportional to pump output voltage, it will turn on dim and brighten as the pump reaches 100%

YELLOW - This is the FULL/Diagnostic led
It will blink the BAR value that the unit is set for on startup. 2 for 2 BAR and 3 for 3 BAR.

It will come on solid in normal operation when the output voltage to pump is at 100%.
It will stay on until output drops below 95%
This prevents the light from fluttering if the boost is hovering around FULL.

It will blink a steady rate when the unit is faulted.

Fault:
The controller will go into fault mode if
- excessive current draw
- fault in the pump circuit
- controller overheat
- pump wired incorrectly

In fault mode, the controller will shut off the output to the pump and will flash the yellow (FULL/Diagnostic) led.

The controller must be powered down and the fault condition must no longer exist before the controller will resume normal operation.

Open circuit conditions are not monitored by this controller
This is because many alcohol/water injection pumps have a pressure switch to modulate max pressure. During normal operation the switch will open and close. When the switch is open, no current will flow to the pump. Therefore, it can be normal for a zero current condition when the controller is telling the pump to run.

Wideopentuning

Did I miss anything? Any other questions? Is anyone here utilizing water/meth/alcohol injection already?

Spooling Darkness

I have always wanted to run water injection, but i gotta wait till i get my built motor up in running before I fork out doe for a kit.

salesmonkey

looks nice i want to see someone use one of these and give us a review

FooK

thats a nice deal on an injection kit.

for this site, you'll find not many are experienced with it. you may want to include some sort of "recommended options" for various setup (ie x-gph nozzle for 10psi 250whp setups, x-gph nozzle for 15psi 300-350whp setups, or something like that)

Wideopentuning

Ok I can understand that. It kinda seems as though the Honda and VW crowd are late adopters of Water/Methanol/Alcohol Injection. The SRT4 , Evo and Subaru guys all have dedicated forums for it. I have been really trying to get it out there in the Vw and Honda world. Like I was mentioning earlier, the Srt4 was able to run 6-8 degrees more timing on pump gas with 0 knock. Its also quite a sight when you are datalogging a long 4th gear high boost pull and the intake temps remain flat and at ambient temp the whole pull. Maybe go look around the SRT4 Water/meth forums a little bit and get a feel for what is being achieved.
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/foru...ysprune=&f=189
The Devils Own forum has a little info as well
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/forum/
Its not uncommon at all to be able to make 30-60 whp more with water/meth on pump gas than without.

Wideopentuning

Here is a thread from the Vwvortex where someone was able to run over 20 psi with a GT35 on a VR6 with no intercooler using water injection.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2851308

Wideopentuning

Someome with a Civic stepped up and paypalled. Should be a pretty nasty D16.