I put Eibach proline springs ang KGB shocks in my '91 CRX to level it out from the extra weight of the B16a. The springs lowered it a LOT more than the 1.2" specified (likely also from the extra weight of the moter I'm guessing) leaving me with too much camber and sitting too low. To fix the camber I got adjustable ball joints, and have discovered the nuts on them are slamming the top of the tower, and are rubbing the fender ridge. I came up with this idea to raise the ride height, increase shock travel, and decrease camber at the same time, which would increase the space between the control arm and let me adjust the ball joints in where they would clear the fender. Am I missing anything that would make this not work, break something, and/or be dangerous?
There is ~1/4" of threaded studs above the nuts on the shock tower, if I put a 1/4" thick round shim between the shock top and the tower, the nuts would still be fully threaded onto the studs.
There is over a 1/2" of the bottom of the shock below the level of the lower fork. If I got a section of thick metal tube of sufficent strength and the inner diameter exactly = the outer diameter of the shock, I could slide it over the shock before putting the shock in the lower fork. As long as the bottom of the shock reaches the bottom of the hole in the lower fork, I think it would be safe. Between both of these, it would rise the ride height and shock travel 3/4", which should make a big differance. Here's drawings of what I mean, the green parts are what I want to add.
Current:

Modified:
Thanks!

 

I don't see how you are increasing shock travel I think you will actually decrease it...but honestly I'd suggest just getting different springs or some coil overs rather than rigging it...then get a good toe alignment and call it a day

 

Now that I think about it more I think you're right, that would decrease shock travel...
Any suggestions on different springs?
The Eibach's had the least amount of drop I found when I bought them, everyone else wants their car slammed. How are you people not having the same issue of the upper control arm slamming the shock tower with every bump? Or are you, and you just don't care? Also, I don't want any stiffer springs than the Eibachs, already the smallest bit of uneveness in the road that I literally can't even see feels and sounds like hitting a 6" pothole, somethings bound to break eventually... of course some of that may because of the slamming into the shock tower... I know you sacrifice smooth for performance but there are limits.
Plus I hate to throw out these springs with >5000 miles on them to shell out for more new ones that may not work better... I suppose I could put the stock ones back on, but the front was almost as low and the rear was jacked up and looked stupid.

 

do you have bump stops? I have my CRX suspension on my DD EG hatch and the rear is Koni yellow and eibachs and it is slammed lol I don't know where they got there 1.4" drop from or whatever they claim lol the front is Koni yellows and Ground controls with 600lb springs and it isn't to bad for DD, im not slamming m control arms to often and I am tucking tire all around...I can't imagine why your car is...when i had my Koni/GC combo on the CRX it was lover and I stll wasn't hitting...I think the camber adjustable control arms are just a PIA on EFs...I think you could have saved your money and not worry about camber but a good toe adjustment will save your tires...what size wheels tires are you running? I had my stock VX wheels on and the car was slammed once I put on my HX wheels for the summer it was a monster truck...

 

I'm running 205/45/16s if I remember right - a bit wider than stock, but the same diameter.
I had adjusted the toe before putting on the camber kit, it still ate the inside of my tires like candy. I think I only have ~5000 on the tires too, and they're shot. I haven't driven it much since putting the camber kit on, of course I aligned it then too.
Really I want it higher, for looks I prefer equal gap at the top of the tire and the sides, stock (before engine swap) has bigger gap at the top, overly lowered has bigger at the sides... And I scrape the concrete every time I pull in the garage, and I worry about potholes and speed bumps.

 

After thinking about it even more, I'm thinking this wouldn't effect shock travel at all - unless the upper control arm is hitting the tower before the shock reaches it top, in which case it would increase the travel. Am I wrong?

I do not have bump stops, unless they came with the KGBs, been too long, can't remember now.

 

you're right
It wouldn't change the shock travel at all, unless it is so low that there is interference when the shock compresses to where it is stopped from fully compressing. Then it would of course increase shock travel as you got rid of the interference.

I don't see a problem at all as long as you are fully threaded on to your studs, and you use a material that won't crush or corrode easily. If your spacer disappears you'll be left with a really shitty loosely bolted together suspension.