Problems with wastegate, now I am boosting too high
Ok, so my wastegate wasnt staying closed in the stock position. So I figured it needed to be tighter because the flapper wasnt closing all the way. I cut the end of the arm off and welded on a new flat piece that I could drill my own holes in. The first I drilled I knew was too tight but I just wanted to see if the flapper would stay closed.
My question is....
obviously if you pull the arm it is spring loaded and the pressure from the charge pipes pushes the spring which opens the flapper. So the flapper needs to be pulled pretty tight. so if I drill another hole a little longer, it hsould have a decent amount of pressure pulling back. So the flapper will still be closed and will open at around 8 psi or so right?
Am I safe while testing if I hit 10 or so psi? even if its just momentarily. I really want to see hwere the wastegate is goign to open, but I dont want to blow anything. I am running 14b, zdyne, 450's, no IC yet.
And whats the word on the spring instead of the wastegate? I know abaz was using that for a while. Are you still? Is anyone else? What are my risks of running this setup. We have all kinds of springs at different tensions at my work. I am sure I could find the right one.
With the 14b the wastegate shouldnt let me go over 10psi right?
I drove it today and she boosted great. I had 10psi at around 4500 rpm. I had to let off because there was no sign that it wasnt goign to stop, and I didnt want to go over 10. I didnt want to risk anything
I know there is alot here, but if anyone can answer any of my questions I would appreciate it.
But I have boost!
I was able to break loose the tires in first, second and third. I cant wait to get to drive it some more when I dont have to worry about overboosting.
Jason
My question is....
obviously if you pull the arm it is spring loaded and the pressure from the charge pipes pushes the spring which opens the flapper. So the flapper needs to be pulled pretty tight. so if I drill another hole a little longer, it hsould have a decent amount of pressure pulling back. So the flapper will still be closed and will open at around 8 psi or so right?
Am I safe while testing if I hit 10 or so psi? even if its just momentarily. I really want to see hwere the wastegate is goign to open, but I dont want to blow anything. I am running 14b, zdyne, 450's, no IC yet.
And whats the word on the spring instead of the wastegate? I know abaz was using that for a while. Are you still? Is anyone else? What are my risks of running this setup. We have all kinds of springs at different tensions at my work. I am sure I could find the right one.
With the 14b the wastegate shouldnt let me go over 10psi right?
I drove it today and she boosted great. I had 10psi at around 4500 rpm. I had to let off because there was no sign that it wasnt goign to stop, and I didnt want to go over 10. I didnt want to risk anything
I know there is alot here, but if anyone can answer any of my questions I would appreciate it.
But I have boost!
I was able to break loose the tires in first, second and third. I cant wait to get to drive it some more when I dont have to worry about overboosting.
Jason
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Well, what you're dealing with is the basic concept of raising and lowering the boost by "shortening and lengthening" the actuator arm.
The principle behind it is that when it's "tighter" (shortening the arm) it will require more boost to collapse the spring inside the wastegate because the tension is already high. The reverse when lowering boost.
You should start by setting it flush. With the spring having no pressure through it, attach it to the physical gate, and adjust it to where the gate is closed, but there is no tension on the spring. Then adjust your bosot from there by making the holes (seems to be what you're doing, rather than adjusting the arm) to compensate.
The only problem I see in what you're doing is that you can't "fine tune" the amount of boost. With the threading of the actuator arm, and the use of a couple bolt, you could adjust it by loosening and unloosening the coupler bolt. This would let you have more control over how much boost you actually need to opent he gate.
The principle behind it is that when it's "tighter" (shortening the arm) it will require more boost to collapse the spring inside the wastegate because the tension is already high. The reverse when lowering boost.
You should start by setting it flush. With the spring having no pressure through it, attach it to the physical gate, and adjust it to where the gate is closed, but there is no tension on the spring. Then adjust your bosot from there by making the holes (seems to be what you're doing, rather than adjusting the arm) to compensate.
The only problem I see in what you're doing is that you can't "fine tune" the amount of boost. With the threading of the actuator arm, and the use of a couple bolt, you could adjust it by loosening and unloosening the coupler bolt. This would let you have more control over how much boost you actually need to opent he gate.
Thats exactly what I want to do. I need to find the spot that holds the flapper closed completely, and will open somewhat easily. Then use a boost controller to fine tune it where I want.
I actually want to get the dual stage ones. Then I can have a test/daily driven setting(probably around 5-8psi. and a race setting of around 10-12 psi
I am going to work on it today, and try to get it working right
Jason
I actually want to get the dual stage ones. Then I can have a test/daily driven setting(probably around 5-8psi. and a race setting of around 10-12 psi
I am going to work on it today, and try to get it working right
Jason
Guest
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Check this out.. It might give you an idea on how to make a dual stage boost controller for your internal wastegate..
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...d=1637;start=0
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...d=1637;start=0
Well I fixed it last night! Changed the hole by lining it up with the wastegate closed, and just added a 1/8th of a inch or so. it gave me a consistant 8-9 psi at around 4k. This is pretty much normal for this setup right?
Thanks,
Jason
Thanks,
Jason
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Sniperpain
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