Weird brake problems
check for leaks ANYWHERE on the brake lines, hard / soft, at the master, at the prop valve, at the calipers, at the hardline to softline connections EVERYWHERE.
I wouldnt drive a car where the brake pedal goes to the floor "once in a while" thats a recipe to die.
STOP DRIVING THAT CAR until its fixed.
I wouldnt drive a car where the brake pedal goes to the floor "once in a while" thats a recipe to die.
STOP DRIVING THAT CAR until its fixed.
Ya, My brakes work on the street. It's not a rolling death trap. The only time it does this is say in the drive through were you holding the brakes to keep from rooling back. It will slow psh to the floor, On normally braking and hard slams (i've test this repeatedly to the point were the brake near smoke because I too was concerned) The pedal is firmer then most other cars I drive, and brakes better too. To me this is more of an annoyance then a safety concern.
And FYI it isn't a safety concern because the car was safetied in ontario 1 week ago because My insurance wanted it, the mechanic drove my car, he knows me and s not afraid to point out anything that discern him even though it not safety related and he never noticed it because he drove it normally and not in a stop an wait situation.
I am working on the because it is annoying.
And FYI it isn't a safety concern because the car was safetied in ontario 1 week ago because My insurance wanted it, the mechanic drove my car, he knows me and s not afraid to point out anything that discern him even though it not safety related and he never noticed it because he drove it normally and not in a stop an wait situation.
I am working on the because it is annoying.
oooh.. ok well the way it sounded is like the brakes only worked half the time, lol.
I found this on the WWW a year ago.. might help...
1. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times. Then press it hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, a brake line, wheel cylinder or master cylinder is faulty.
2. Start the engine with the pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the booster is working. if the pedal height doesn't vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.
3. Press the brake pedal with the engine running. Then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary for 30 seconds the booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.
4. With the engine off press the pedal several times with normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If pedal height does not vary, check booster check valve. The check valve is the thing in the big vacuum line going to the booster, which is below the master cylinder in the engine compartment
I found this on the WWW a year ago.. might help...
1. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times. Then press it hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, a brake line, wheel cylinder or master cylinder is faulty.
2. Start the engine with the pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the booster is working. if the pedal height doesn't vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.
3. Press the brake pedal with the engine running. Then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary for 30 seconds the booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.
4. With the engine off press the pedal several times with normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If pedal height does not vary, check booster check valve. The check valve is the thing in the big vacuum line going to the booster, which is below the master cylinder in the engine compartment
Originally Posted by crx88Si
oooh.. ok well the way it sounded is like the brakes only worked half the time, lol.
I found this on the WWW a year ago.. might help...
1. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times. Then press it hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, a brake line, wheel cylinder or master cylinder is faulty.
2. Start the engine with the pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the booster is working. if the pedal height doesn't vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.
3. Press the brake pedal with the engine running. Then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary for 30 seconds the booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.
4. With the engine off press the pedal several times with normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If pedal height does not vary, check booster check valve. The check valve is the thing in the big vacuum line going to the booster, which is below the master cylinder in the engine compartment
I found this on the WWW a year ago.. might help...
1. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times. Then press it hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, a brake line, wheel cylinder or master cylinder is faulty.
2. Start the engine with the pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the booster is working. if the pedal height doesn't vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.
3. Press the brake pedal with the engine running. Then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary for 30 seconds the booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.
4. With the engine off press the pedal several times with normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If pedal height does not vary, check booster check valve. The check valve is the thing in the big vacuum line going to the booster, which is below the master cylinder in the engine compartment
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