Such thing as reliable LS VTEC?
09-13-2005, 08:16 PM
#25
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NE-PA
Posts: 4,666
Re: Such thing as reliable LS VTEC?
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Yes, there is. It doesn't to be properly built from the ground up though. The 31mm intake valve flycuts in the LS pistons absolutely LOVE the 33mm intake valves in the V-TECH heads at 8000 rpms. You should, too! Post pictures when it comes apart. PS, if you don't have sufficient oil pressure to activate V-TECH with the LS oil pump, just ground the VTS to the block and everything will be happy. You don't need all that excess oil pressure anyway. :P
Keeping the stock LS rod and crank isn't a bad thing. Plenty of B20/V-TECH properly built, dangling heavy OEM 84mm slug at the end of the rod, running 8500 rpms daily with long term reliability. In a big power situation, with all the compressive + tensile loading between torue production and high rpms, it's not going to be as good as a GSR or B16 rod which are a bit beefier. You need to plan the engine accordingly. LS/V-TECH is a non-stock parts combo and surprise surprise, Gomer! things don't go together in a friendly stock fashion. There are a few things that need to be massaged + addressed to make LS/V-TECH reliable, it's all well documented and a little netsearching will be very rewarding.
Personally, between the expense, hassle, and work for a V-TECH head there are other, better, cheaper things you can do to raise knock limit - things that don't trash the gearboxes quite so fast with high rpm shifting. But, who cares about that when you can have MAD TITE 3RD GEAR V-TECH Y0! If your intake and exhaust are hogged out + oversized enough, you can really hear the V-TECH when it switches on, and that is all that matters.
Keeping the stock LS rod and crank isn't a bad thing. Plenty of B20/V-TECH properly built, dangling heavy OEM 84mm slug at the end of the rod, running 8500 rpms daily with long term reliability. In a big power situation, with all the compressive + tensile loading between torue production and high rpms, it's not going to be as good as a GSR or B16 rod which are a bit beefier. You need to plan the engine accordingly. LS/V-TECH is a non-stock parts combo and surprise surprise, Gomer! things don't go together in a friendly stock fashion. There are a few things that need to be massaged + addressed to make LS/V-TECH reliable, it's all well documented and a little netsearching will be very rewarding.
Personally, between the expense, hassle, and work for a V-TECH head there are other, better, cheaper things you can do to raise knock limit - things that don't trash the gearboxes quite so fast with high rpm shifting. But, who cares about that when you can have MAD TITE 3RD GEAR V-TECH Y0! If your intake and exhaust are hogged out + oversized enough, you can really hear the V-TECH when it switches on, and that is all that matters.
C'mon Joe...you're slippin 
09-14-2005, 12:52 AM
#26
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 590
Re: Such thing as reliable LS VTEC?
I've been running an LS VTEC for almost 2.5 years, and about 15k or so. Reliability will lie within how you put it together.
As for the water pumps, yes they are different, on both sides. One is a 19 tooth and the other a 22 tooth for the belt side, and the actual prop sizes are different. The B16 is actually the smallest, then B18A/B then the C's. The greater the number of teeth on the gear, the higher in the rpm range the pump has a greater efficiency. In theory, you want a B18C pump on there, but in reality a stock one will work. Tho I have a B18C pump.
As for oil pumps, pretty much the same story. B16 is the smallest but has a higher eff high in the rev band...yada yada
As for gidling and so forth. I recommend it, hell the Type R has two supports, one more over the GSR. If you want reliability without benchmarking motors in a lab, copy what engineers do. Look at the new K20A, the oil pan is cast aluminum for heat dissipation and bottom end strength. But the K24 don't have it...hmmmm not hard to figure out why.
As for cost... lets break it down to my costs in canadian funds when I originally built my motor 2.5yrs ago
B16A3 - 1000
B18B - 800
Girdle & caps - 85
New bearings (rod and mains) - 165
Rings - 80
ARP studs - 180
Water pump - 120
Timing belt - 130
Oil Pump - 90
Oil line kit - 190
misc gaskets and sealant - 150
Total 2990
Yet a GSR motor at the time was 3500, and a Type R was 5000. Plus this motor is rebuilt now. I have beaten many GSR powered vehicles, H22 powered civics (surprised me, I leave this to supporting mods)....hell I hang with one friends silvia on stock boost and Twin turbo Rx7 stock....
This motor regularly gets up to redline, and dragged weekly in niagara. You shouldn't have any problems if you take the time to measure clearances, and put it together properly.
As for the water pumps, yes they are different, on both sides. One is a 19 tooth and the other a 22 tooth for the belt side, and the actual prop sizes are different. The B16 is actually the smallest, then B18A/B then the C's. The greater the number of teeth on the gear, the higher in the rpm range the pump has a greater efficiency. In theory, you want a B18C pump on there, but in reality a stock one will work. Tho I have a B18C pump.
As for oil pumps, pretty much the same story. B16 is the smallest but has a higher eff high in the rev band...yada yada
As for gidling and so forth. I recommend it, hell the Type R has two supports, one more over the GSR. If you want reliability without benchmarking motors in a lab, copy what engineers do. Look at the new K20A, the oil pan is cast aluminum for heat dissipation and bottom end strength. But the K24 don't have it...hmmmm not hard to figure out why.
As for cost... lets break it down to my costs in canadian funds when I originally built my motor 2.5yrs ago
B16A3 - 1000
B18B - 800
Girdle & caps - 85
New bearings (rod and mains) - 165
Rings - 80
ARP studs - 180
Water pump - 120
Timing belt - 130
Oil Pump - 90
Oil line kit - 190
misc gaskets and sealant - 150
Total 2990
Yet a GSR motor at the time was 3500, and a Type R was 5000. Plus this motor is rebuilt now. I have beaten many GSR powered vehicles, H22 powered civics (surprised me, I leave this to supporting mods)....hell I hang with one friends silvia on stock boost and Twin turbo Rx7 stock....
This motor regularly gets up to redline, and dragged weekly in niagara. You shouldn't have any problems if you take the time to measure clearances, and put it together properly.
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