paz

your stock oil pump is the oil pump the b18b needs. the water pumps are the same depending on the timing belt you use.

i had one, it died, but because the oil pump went out.

also someone mentioned bearings, you dont need different bearings.

Slo_crx1

The only reason for the oil squirters is to help cool the piston temps to try and keep detonation and any other heat related stress on the down-low. Honestly, i've never seen a big difference with them in or out if the engine temp is kept under control. Also, from my experience and what i've seen others do to their ls/vtec's, the whole rumor with the oil and bearing problems mainly seems to come from the fact that a vtec ends up putting more oil up top for the head during vtec engagement, and they end up starving the bottom end because the oil pump is starving for oil. It's a simple fix...called keeping tabs on everything, and making sure your oil level's up. Just my .02

Guy-Fast

people with bearing problems w/ ls vtec's once again is slappin a vtec head on a 160k block that already needs a rebuild. Vtec doesnt safe everything

BLACKSI

make sure you buy a light whight crank pully off ebay for maximum reliability

Beau

shanerv

speaking from experience... if you beat the $hit out of any motor it won't last forever, ls/vtec GSR ITR CTR none of them. Yes, some will last longer but, it is inevitable that if you race it , you will kill it. If you build an ls/vtec with VTEC oil pump(ie, 96+ oil pumps are all the same as a vtec one not 98+)new water pump/timing belt, and Rod bolts/head studs. It should be close to a GSR or ITR in reliability, with the only main diff. being no girdle. Honestly though too, unless you have a B16 top half already laying around, you'll probably spend as much as a GSR setup

90turboteg

i daily drive and beat my ls/vtec, its been turboed once, i have arp rod bolts, shot peened rods, vtec oil pump, new ls water pump, ls timing belt,. arp head studs, cometic head gasket, and i have had it for about a year now, runs fine, my head gasket it kinda bad now, but i have a new one, its from taking the head off and not replaceing it... but it runs good, i take it to 8k alot, and run it at the track. its a low 14 sec na motor, in a 90 integra, has a few little things, but i would deff build it, a few people i kno have spun a rod baring by not puting the right ---- in or not puting it together properly for longitivity, the only thing i go threw is tranis, dam cable b series...

HMT-Admin

What are you saying.. my 40 dollar pulley sucked?

There are lots of good points in this thread, I'd probably still have mine if I didnt boost the ---- out of it and drive it so hard. It is very possible to have a "reliable" ls/vtec

FooK

yeah and my motors would probably stay together longer if i ran 8psi all the time too. but what fun would that be right?

for the past few days ive been banging the z6 with 15psi.

Tom-Guy

Yes, there is. It doesn't to be properly built from the ground up though. The 31mm intake valve flycuts in the LS pistons absolutely LOVE the 33mm intake valves in the V-TECH heads at 8000 rpms. You should, too! Post pictures when it comes apart. PS, if you don't have sufficient oil pressure to activate V-TECH with the LS oil pump, just ground the VTS to the block and everything will be happy. You don't need all that excess oil pressure anyway. :P

Keeping the stock LS rod and crank isn't a bad thing. Plenty of B20/V-TECH properly built, dangling heavy OEM 84mm slug at the end of the rod, running 8500 rpms daily with long term reliability. In a big power situation, with all the compressive + tensile loading between torue production and high rpms, it's not going to be as good as a GSR or B16 rod which are a bit beefier. You need to plan the engine accordingly. LS/V-TECH is a non-stock parts combo and surprise surprise, Gomer! things don't go together in a friendly stock fashion. There are a few things that need to be massaged + addressed to make LS/V-TECH reliable, it's all well documented and a little netsearching will be very rewarding.

Personally, between the expense, hassle, and work for a V-TECH head there are other, better, cheaper things you can do to raise knock limit - things that don't trash the gearboxes quite so fast with high rpm shifting. But, who cares about that when you can have MAD TITE 3RD GEAR V-TECH Y0! If your intake and exhaust are hogged out + oversized enough, you can really hear the V-TECH when it switches on, and that is all that matters.

jdm_racer

LS-VTEC and B20-VTEC are absolutely reliable as long as you take the safety precaution and upgrad the oil pump. water pump. rod bolts and head studs. and dont abuse the living ---- out of it everyday.

my buddy is running a B20vtec in his G3 integra for about 2 1/2 years now. stock bottom end with a GSR head. redlines it here and there. Car has been taken to California before (10-15 hour each way) and still runs perfectly fine, not a single problem. other then the shift linkage getting ripped out of the tranny, but that was because his brother went over bumps straight on with the car being too low.