Ready to install Y8 head (Mini-me), need confirmations please.
All right, I have my head all prepped with new valve seals and cam seal. Ready to go. Questions I have are as follows.
I have ARP head studs. Do I use the same torque specs and sequence?
I do not have to do anything to the block, just drop it on? No plugs to remove, or jets.
I have a Felpro gasket set, recommend copper spray on gasket?
I have to convert my P06 to a P28, stuff will be here soon. What wires need to be run? vtec solenoid, vtec oil pressure, do I have to run a knock? I have it disabled in Uberdata.
How long should I run it after Im done before changing the oil? 30 minutes?
Thanks again
Dave
I have ARP head studs. Do I use the same torque specs and sequence?
I do not have to do anything to the block, just drop it on? No plugs to remove, or jets.
I have a Felpro gasket set, recommend copper spray on gasket?
I have to convert my P06 to a P28, stuff will be here soon. What wires need to be run? vtec solenoid, vtec oil pressure, do I have to run a knock? I have it disabled in Uberdata.
How long should I run it after Im done before changing the oil? 30 minutes?
Thanks again
Dave
Whats up Dave? It's that time already? If you need/want a hand I'd be glad to cruise down and help out. I just did this myself also and it's a pretty fun project. But to answer a few of your questions:
1-You torque in the same sequence but I beleive the torque specs are on the package.
2- When you get the head off there should be a small plug (oil control jet) in between the number 2+3 culinders. You'll want to remove that otherwise you won't have Vtec.
3- I didn't use any copper spray, I just used that Hi-tack (red) spray that's used to hold gaskets in place. Either way you can't go wrong.
4- Vtec solenoid and Vtec oil press. switch should be all thats needed if your knock is disabled. Mine was OBD-0 so I didn't need to deal with those extra sensors.
5- I changed the oil, fired it up and don't plan on doing an oil change until 3000 miles
The oil still has decent color so I'm not too worried about the break in.
1-You torque in the same sequence but I beleive the torque specs are on the package.
2- When you get the head off there should be a small plug (oil control jet) in between the number 2+3 culinders. You'll want to remove that otherwise you won't have Vtec.
3- I didn't use any copper spray, I just used that Hi-tack (red) spray that's used to hold gaskets in place. Either way you can't go wrong.
4- Vtec solenoid and Vtec oil press. switch should be all thats needed if your knock is disabled. Mine was OBD-0 so I didn't need to deal with those extra sensors.
5- I changed the oil, fired it up and don't plan on doing an oil change until 3000 miles
The oil still has decent color so I'm not too worried about the break in.
You might not, I may be overlooking the situation, but I do know my B7 had it and I needed to remove it. Simple thing to do though, so if you got it, take it out, if not, your good to go.
y7 mini me write up <--- hopefully that helps some, aparently the y7 does not have the oil jet in the block, it was in the head so no need to do anything with it.
Is that felpro head gasket the composite type? If so and you are boosting it, or planning to, I would get the mls metal head gasket. It's only 22.58 now at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
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