BoostCraze

Ok so im gonna build my motor for Turbo. I have had this motor turbo'd before and it held 10psi great all day long. I took the kit off and sold it due to lack of funds. But now im ready. It is a low mileage d16z6 engine with a d16y8 tranny in my 92 civic hatch.
Now these are my plans:
Vitara pistions w/ Hastin rings
Light Hone
Scat rods w/ ARP Rod Bolts
Golden Eagle BlockGaurd
Crank Srcaper
New OEM water pump, Oil pump, T-belt, Rear main seal, Oil pan gasket, Valve cover gasket, T-stat and gasket, Crank seal, Cam seals.
D16y8 OEM Head Gasket to bump Compression up to 8
ARP Head Studs
DH-Racing Crank Pulley

Now here are my questions:
1. Im gonna be running 17psi after i break in the engine with 8psi. Should i upgrade the valves, springs, and retainters, or should i do a valve job at all while im pulling the head? Im trying to make this a project that is possible, not a project where i have thousands of things to do and it will never get done cuase i dont have the money. So should i get just a basic valve job or upgraded valve job, or upgrade everything ie springs valves retainters?

2. Should I break this engine in without a turbo on it. Brake it in NA or break it in with low boost like 8psi?

3 Now this is a low mileage engine. so should i replace the MAIN Bearings or leave them alone, cuase ill have to pull the crank out to get it polished if im replacing the main bearings. I know i have to replace the rod bearings. Remeber i dont wanna pull the block out of the car. I want to keep it in and do the work from there. Or should i just replace the main bearings and have the crank polished?

If anyone can help me with these questions then i whould be very very thankfull as well as some tips. Thanks

BoostCraze

anyone anyone?

Dibble

I would break it in however you plan on driving it. If you are going to drive it hard, break it in on 8psi hard.

Bearing should be fine if they are in good shape.

But really to be safe, cut no corners and do it right the frist time.

Minor Threat

I would lose the pulley in favor of a stock one, unless you feel like taking a gamble on your bottom end.

Don't talk PSI, talk horsepower. What turbo? What are your horsepower goals? Chances are you can run with the stock head unless your turbo is undersized for your power needs, but in that case you've got bigger problems than selecting your valvetrain.
Boost seals rings like nobodies business, just make sure your timing is cool, and your AFRs are in check.

Dude, just pull the block out of the car and save yourself some trouble. I know it seems like it'd be easier to leave it in, but engines are so much nicer to work on when they're sitting on a stand. Rent a hoist, label all your connections and vaccum lines and yank it out. I got mine back in after it had sat out for the winter in under 45 mins.

As for replacing the mains, spec them out, if they look good, leave 'em alone.

BoostCraze

ill be running a garrett t3/t04b with a .48 a/r turbine housing and stg-2 turbine wheel. looking for around 250 horsepower or whatever i can squeeze out of these pistons, as far as the pulley goes, i just figured i chould sqeeze some extra horse ditching the oem sense i dont have PS or AC and d h racing clams there pulley are balanced better then the dealer's pulley, balanced to 0 is what they say