HMTsol

You dont have to machine anything if you use ARP's, I think for LS Vtec its a must because they stronger and you cna reuse them. Whith stock bolts you can loose the treads it hapend to my friend he put b16 head stud drowe around the block and it leaked, we he took them out his treads were gone, no fun, just do it the write way.

BigJ

What the hell are you talking about? The scholastic endeavors of today's youth are beyond sub-par.

What it appears is that your trying to get is that your friend did NOT lube the head stud threads and consequently stripped the aluminum threads cut into the block from friction. Bottom line is, he probably needs more time reading and less time touching tools.

Beyond that, you can re-use factory head studs, Honda factory bolts are not torque-yield bots. As long as they have not been stretched or damaged. You can find the lengths at a good machine shop or a factory service manual.

HMTsol

b16 bolts are too short for LS block..!

BigJ

You are an idiot, if you use a B16 head use b16 bolts. You and your thread stripped block friend are a whole lot of FAIL.

The block does not dictate the bolt, the head does.

HMTsol

its not the head its a block too long...

BigJ

I have to end this; you just don't know what your talking about. Some poor kid is going to save up his money and buy the wrong stud kit because you're a moron.

B18 Blocks are the same casting - Also B16B share this casting (VTEC blocks have girdled bottoms and oil squirters added)
B18A/B are DOHC
B18C1,3,5 etc are DOHC VTEC
B16B is DOHC VTEC

B16/17 Blocks are the same casting (shorter deck height that B18 blocks)
B16 is DOHC VTEC
B17 is DOHC VTEC (basically a stroked B16)

ARP Head stud kit for B16, B17 (DA chassis GSR), and B18C5 Acura & Honda engines is 208-4601
ARP Head stud kit for B18C1 (aka DC chassis GSR) is 208-4303

hmmm, I wonder why the B18C5 uses the same block as the B18C1 but shares the same headstud kit as the B16..... I wonder why? Perhaps it is the fact that the head dictates the stud to use and not the block as you continue to press upon.

Slo_crx1

The B18c/B18c5 block is not the same deck height as your normal b18a/b, it's longer by a hair. The standard b18a/b block is closer in deck height to the b18c1/c5 and not the b16, thus the reason you use gsr head studs. I've run gsr head studs in a b16 before without any issues, but was never able to use a b16 head stud in an ls/vtec simply because they were just too short. Why do you think the reasoning behind running a gsr timing belt is as well? Something for you to think about...

If you really wanted the correct one, it would be the head studs and timing belt for a c5, but oh wait...it's the same as for the c1.

Slo_crx1

B18A/B and B20B block deck height = 211.84 mm

B18C1 and B18C5 block deck height = 212.39 mm

B16A block deck height = 203.37 mm

For a quick reference...not everything gets matched to the head.

HMTsol

There you go... :-)

BigJ

But headbolts are different Between the GSR and Type-R. The GSR has a raised casting between Cyl 2 and 3. The type-R shares the same head studs with the B16 from both the factory and aftermarket alike. This is because the head dictates the studs. The discussion is headstuds/bolts not timing belts. How you managed to bury the headstuds in so they do not fit I have no idea. They should.

Lets use some logic
GSR bottom = Type-R bottom (both teggy and civic) - Agree?
GSR Head = One off casting - Agree?
B16/B17/Type-R head = Same casting - Agree? (yeah the type-r has port work)

B18C deck heights are Higher by ~.6mm than A/B's and B20's, which means you have more than ample bolt/stud length.

So now, Honda specs the same headbolts for both the Type-R B18C blocks as well as the B16 with a deck height difference of ~9mm. ARP also does this, specs the same headstud with a difference of ~9mm.

The timing belt is the same between all B18C's. If you change the water pump on a B18A/B to the SiR/GSR/Type-R you use the GSR/Type-R timing belt. Due to the tooth count difference. Nothing to do with height. The tensioner and adjustable cam gears eat the difference in height.

The deck height differences you describe between the B18A/B's and B18C is actual static block deck height. The B18C's are actually higher. They are the same casting, just machined down. (Realistically negligible for this argument, hell dart only makes 2 deck heights and you machine them) Your argument is even in my favour with a Type-R/GSR block having a -----hair more material than an LS block.

Explain how I have over 40,000 kilometers on my Boosted LS-V over 5 years (6 this summer) with ARP headstuds from a B16. I did this research a long time ago, and built my motor a long time ago. Built with SRP pistons and eagle rods, girdled, oiled, gasketed and re-enforced with stock honda components. No blown HG's, not a bent valve, or spun bearing, or oil problem. Just flawless performance.

I've said my piece with undeniable evidence that you match the headbolt or stud to the head you are using. You have just claimed opinion without any specific evidence to prove me wrong. I honestly do not know what else to say. Do whatever you guys want in your build.

Goodluck