LS Rod Swap.... How To
0.0 BAR
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 23
Re: LS Rod Swap.... How To
.003 is excessive for an interference fit.. theres no need and you'd have to cook the ---- out of the rod/freeze the bearing to get it in there. the likelyhood of having the rod cool and grab the bushing half way in is very high. .0003" will probably hold adequately, but id say .001-.0015" is about your standard interference.
personally id rather press in a slug or predrilled core, then cut the bronze true in a pin bushing cutter (kinda rare but they hold the rod square by the big end and slide a boring bar with single point cutter through the pin end. engine shops have them.) and then hone to final fit. this way everything is square.
when you have a cocked pin bushing one side of the piston sits higher than the others so really tight head clearances might hit, the sharp edge of the ring face chaffes the cylinder wall, the piston wears all crooked. all kinds of bullshit that lead to an underperformer. nobody likes that.
personally id rather press in a slug or predrilled core, then cut the bronze true in a pin bushing cutter (kinda rare but they hold the rod square by the big end and slide a boring bar with single point cutter through the pin end. engine shops have them.) and then hone to final fit. this way everything is square.
when you have a cocked pin bushing one side of the piston sits higher than the others so really tight head clearances might hit, the sharp edge of the ring face chaffes the cylinder wall, the piston wears all crooked. all kinds of bullshit that lead to an underperformer. nobody likes that.
Thread Starter
1.5 BAR
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 701
.003 is excessive for an interference fit.. theres no need and you'd have to cook the ---- out of the rod/freeze the bearing to get it in there. the likelyhood of having the rod cool and grab the bushing half way in is very high. .0003" will probably hold adequately, but id say .001-.0015" is about your standard interference.
personally id rather press in a slug or predrilled core, then cut the bronze true in a pin bushing cutter (kinda rare but they hold the rod square by the big end and slide a boring bar with single point cutter through the pin end. engine shops have them.) and then hone to final fit. this way everything is square.
when you have a cocked pin bushing one side of the piston sits higher than the others so really tight head clearances might hit, the sharp edge of the ring face chaffes the cylinder wall, the piston wears all crooked. all kinds of bullshit that lead to an underperformer. nobody likes that.
personally id rather press in a slug or predrilled core, then cut the bronze true in a pin bushing cutter (kinda rare but they hold the rod square by the big end and slide a boring bar with single point cutter through the pin end. engine shops have them.) and then hone to final fit. this way everything is square.
when you have a cocked pin bushing one side of the piston sits higher than the others so really tight head clearances might hit, the sharp edge of the ring face chaffes the cylinder wall, the piston wears all crooked. all kinds of bullshit that lead to an underperformer. nobody likes that.
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mij_nagrom88
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Nov 27, 2006 02:44 PM
