how to test distributors ???
how can you tell if it is the igniter, or somthing else 
10-25-2006, 02:44 PM
#2
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,036
Re: how to test distributors ???
this should help you out quite a bit, read the whole article gypse !!
Honda/Acura
I think by now everyone is aware of Honda's distributor problems. For one thing, the bearings seem to fail, most often in Civics, Accords and Integras. This can cause the reluctor to hit the AC voltage pulse generators, or pickups, leading to a no-start.
Other components can go wrong inside a Honda/Acura distributor, as well. Coils and igniters, for example, should always be checked in instances of no-starts and ignition misfires. Here's a quick test for an igniter: With the ignition key on, check each wire on the six- or eight-pin connector at the distributor. One of these wires should have 10 to 11 volts on it. Tapping this wire with a grounded test light should induce a nice spark from the coil. (A plug wire stuck in the coil tower with a spark tester at the end of it works great for this test.)
While tap-testing, you may want to check to see if the coil negative terminal is being grounded. If the terminal is getting grounded and the engine won't start, then the coil probably is bad.
Two other tidbits are worth mentioning: First, never switch caps between Integras and Accords, even though they look alike. Each cap has a different resistance value in the carbon brush to the rotor, and flopping caps can cause burn-through. Second, be extra careful when removing and installing these caps. Since they come off at an angle and in a tight spot (seems everything in an Asian vehicle is in a tight spot), it's very easy to break the carbon brush.
In the case of an engine without spark, the first thing you should do is check for injector pulse. If you have it, chances are the pickups in the distributor are good, so move on to the igniter and coil. If you don't get injector pulse, head straight for the pickups. Note that one important signal in the distributor comes from the TDC sensor. This component identifies which cylinder is coming up on TDC, and the computer needs this information to fire the injectors.
Also check out the main relay and ignition switch. Note that a significant voltage drop across the relay contacts may not properly power up the ECM. Pull out a wiring diagram and jump the relay to see if the engine starts. The section of the main relay that powers up the fuel pump gets its juice via the ignition switch. If a contact within the switch goes bad, you may lose voltage to the pump during or after a cranking. Try wiggling the ignition key to see if you can keep the engine running.
Sometimes the computer won't ground the fuel pump section of the main relay during a crank. To check things out, locate the green wire with the black trace and jump it to ground. If the engine now starts, you most likely have a bad ECM.
Some other points to consider: Misfires that occur just off idle up to about 1500 rpm are frequently caused by clogged EGR intake passages. This causes all the recirculation gases to flow into one cylinder (usually No. 1), killing it.
If you encounter a surge during or ofter warmup on a Honda/Acura, check out the fast idle valve. Most vehicles produced from 1988 to 1995 have this valve located either behind the TPS (early models) or under the throttle body (later models). This valve has a thermowax element that uses heat from the coolant to close it, thereby reducing the idle speed. If this valve sticks open, however, it can cause a lean surge either while the engine is warming up or after it has fully warmed. If the fast idle valve isn't causing the surge, it may be that debris has wafted past the air filter and gotten stuck in the EACV (electronic air control valve), holding it open.
The EACV is usually mounted on the intake plenum. Most Honda/Acura models have separate air supply holes in the throttle body. Blocking one hole at a time while the engine is idling can quickly determine which port is passing the additional air, thereby causing the lean surge.
Don't assume that when you unplug the EACV and the rpm goes down you've found the problem. The fast idle valve could still be passing air. To check it out, with the engine fully warmed and coolant flowing to the valve, put your finger over the hole in the throttle body that feeds it. If rpm drops, the fast idle valve is stuck open. Unplugging the EACV should close it. With the EACV unplugged, block the hole that feeds it in the throttle body. If the rpm drops, something is holding open the EACV.
Honda/Acura
I think by now everyone is aware of Honda's distributor problems. For one thing, the bearings seem to fail, most often in Civics, Accords and Integras. This can cause the reluctor to hit the AC voltage pulse generators, or pickups, leading to a no-start.
Other components can go wrong inside a Honda/Acura distributor, as well. Coils and igniters, for example, should always be checked in instances of no-starts and ignition misfires. Here's a quick test for an igniter: With the ignition key on, check each wire on the six- or eight-pin connector at the distributor. One of these wires should have 10 to 11 volts on it. Tapping this wire with a grounded test light should induce a nice spark from the coil. (A plug wire stuck in the coil tower with a spark tester at the end of it works great for this test.)
While tap-testing, you may want to check to see if the coil negative terminal is being grounded. If the terminal is getting grounded and the engine won't start, then the coil probably is bad.
Two other tidbits are worth mentioning: First, never switch caps between Integras and Accords, even though they look alike. Each cap has a different resistance value in the carbon brush to the rotor, and flopping caps can cause burn-through. Second, be extra careful when removing and installing these caps. Since they come off at an angle and in a tight spot (seems everything in an Asian vehicle is in a tight spot), it's very easy to break the carbon brush.
In the case of an engine without spark, the first thing you should do is check for injector pulse. If you have it, chances are the pickups in the distributor are good, so move on to the igniter and coil. If you don't get injector pulse, head straight for the pickups. Note that one important signal in the distributor comes from the TDC sensor. This component identifies which cylinder is coming up on TDC, and the computer needs this information to fire the injectors.
Also check out the main relay and ignition switch. Note that a significant voltage drop across the relay contacts may not properly power up the ECM. Pull out a wiring diagram and jump the relay to see if the engine starts. The section of the main relay that powers up the fuel pump gets its juice via the ignition switch. If a contact within the switch goes bad, you may lose voltage to the pump during or after a cranking. Try wiggling the ignition key to see if you can keep the engine running.
Sometimes the computer won't ground the fuel pump section of the main relay during a crank. To check things out, locate the green wire with the black trace and jump it to ground. If the engine now starts, you most likely have a bad ECM.
Some other points to consider: Misfires that occur just off idle up to about 1500 rpm are frequently caused by clogged EGR intake passages. This causes all the recirculation gases to flow into one cylinder (usually No. 1), killing it.
If you encounter a surge during or ofter warmup on a Honda/Acura, check out the fast idle valve. Most vehicles produced from 1988 to 1995 have this valve located either behind the TPS (early models) or under the throttle body (later models). This valve has a thermowax element that uses heat from the coolant to close it, thereby reducing the idle speed. If this valve sticks open, however, it can cause a lean surge either while the engine is warming up or after it has fully warmed. If the fast idle valve isn't causing the surge, it may be that debris has wafted past the air filter and gotten stuck in the EACV (electronic air control valve), holding it open.
The EACV is usually mounted on the intake plenum. Most Honda/Acura models have separate air supply holes in the throttle body. Blocking one hole at a time while the engine is idling can quickly determine which port is passing the additional air, thereby causing the lean surge.
Don't assume that when you unplug the EACV and the rpm goes down you've found the problem. The fast idle valve could still be passing air. To check it out, with the engine fully warmed and coolant flowing to the valve, put your finger over the hole in the throttle body that feeds it. If rpm drops, the fast idle valve is stuck open. Unplugging the EACV should close it. With the EACV unplugged, block the hole that feeds it in the throttle body. If the rpm drops, something is holding open the EACV.
10-25-2006, 03:00 PM
#4
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,036
Re: how to test distributors ???
this should also help you out alot !!! http://youtube.com/watch?v=Hod9Dh5FEeE lol 
10-25-2006, 06:19 PM
#5
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,890
Re: how to test distributors ???
Originally Posted by ososlohatch
this should help you out quite a bit, read the whole article gypse !!
Honda/Acura
I think by now everyone is aware of Honda's distributor problems. For one thing, the bearings seem to fail, most often in Civics, Accords and Integras. This can cause the reluctor to hit the AC voltage pulse generators, or pickups, leading to a no-start.
Other components can go wrong inside a Honda/Acura distributor, as well. Coils and igniters, for example, should always be checked in instances of no-starts and ignition misfires. Here's a quick test for an igniter: With the ignition key on, check each wire on the six- or eight-pin connector at the distributor. One of these wires should have 10 to 11 volts on it. Tapping this wire with a grounded test light should induce a nice spark from the coil. (A plug wire stuck in the coil tower with a spark tester at the end of it works great for this test.)
While tap-testing, you may want to check to see if the coil negative terminal is being grounded. If the terminal is getting grounded and the engine won't start, then the coil probably is bad.
Two other tidbits are worth mentioning: First, never switch caps between Integras and Accords, even though they look alike. Each cap has a different resistance value in the carbon brush to the rotor, and flopping caps can cause burn-through. Second, be extra careful when removing and installing these caps. Since they come off at an angle and in a tight spot (seems everything in an Asian vehicle is in a tight spot), it's very easy to break the carbon brush.
In the case of an engine without spark, the first thing you should do is check for injector pulse. If you have it, chances are the pickups in the distributor are good, so move on to the igniter and coil. If you don't get injector pulse, head straight for the pickups. Note that one important signal in the distributor comes from the TDC sensor. This component identifies which cylinder is coming up on TDC, and the computer needs this information to fire the injectors.
Also check out the main relay and ignition switch. Note that a significant voltage drop across the relay contacts may not properly power up the ECM. Pull out a wiring diagram and jump the relay to see if the engine starts. The section of the main relay that powers up the fuel pump gets its juice via the ignition switch. If a contact within the switch goes bad, you may lose voltage to the pump during or after a cranking. Try wiggling the ignition key to see if you can keep the engine running.
Sometimes the computer won't ground the fuel pump section of the main relay during a crank. To check things out, locate the green wire with the black trace and jump it to ground. If the engine now starts, you most likely have a bad ECM.
Some other points to consider: Misfires that occur just off idle up to about 1500 rpm are frequently caused by clogged EGR intake passages. This causes all the recirculation gases to flow into one cylinder (usually No. 1), killing it.
If you encounter a surge during or ofter warmup on a Honda/Acura, check out the fast idle valve. Most vehicles produced from 1988 to 1995 have this valve located either behind the TPS (early models) or under the throttle body (later models). This valve has a thermowax element that uses heat from the coolant to close it, thereby reducing the idle speed. If this valve sticks open, however, it can cause a lean surge either while the engine is warming up or after it has fully warmed. If the fast idle valve isn't causing the surge, it may be that debris has wafted past the air filter and gotten stuck in the EACV (electronic air control valve), holding it open.
The EACV is usually mounted on the intake plenum. Most Honda/Acura models have separate air supply holes in the throttle body. Blocking one hole at a time while the engine is idling can quickly determine which port is passing the additional air, thereby causing the lean surge.
Don't assume that when you unplug the EACV and the rpm goes down you've found the problem. The fast idle valve could still be passing air. To check it out, with the engine fully warmed and coolant flowing to the valve, put your finger over the hole in the throttle body that feeds it. If rpm drops, the fast idle valve is stuck open. Unplugging the EACV should close it. With the EACV unplugged, block the hole that feeds it in the throttle body. If the rpm drops, something is holding open the EACV.
Honda/Acura
I think by now everyone is aware of Honda's distributor problems. For one thing, the bearings seem to fail, most often in Civics, Accords and Integras. This can cause the reluctor to hit the AC voltage pulse generators, or pickups, leading to a no-start.
Other components can go wrong inside a Honda/Acura distributor, as well. Coils and igniters, for example, should always be checked in instances of no-starts and ignition misfires. Here's a quick test for an igniter: With the ignition key on, check each wire on the six- or eight-pin connector at the distributor. One of these wires should have 10 to 11 volts on it. Tapping this wire with a grounded test light should induce a nice spark from the coil. (A plug wire stuck in the coil tower with a spark tester at the end of it works great for this test.)
While tap-testing, you may want to check to see if the coil negative terminal is being grounded. If the terminal is getting grounded and the engine won't start, then the coil probably is bad.
Two other tidbits are worth mentioning: First, never switch caps between Integras and Accords, even though they look alike. Each cap has a different resistance value in the carbon brush to the rotor, and flopping caps can cause burn-through. Second, be extra careful when removing and installing these caps. Since they come off at an angle and in a tight spot (seems everything in an Asian vehicle is in a tight spot), it's very easy to break the carbon brush.
In the case of an engine without spark, the first thing you should do is check for injector pulse. If you have it, chances are the pickups in the distributor are good, so move on to the igniter and coil. If you don't get injector pulse, head straight for the pickups. Note that one important signal in the distributor comes from the TDC sensor. This component identifies which cylinder is coming up on TDC, and the computer needs this information to fire the injectors.
Also check out the main relay and ignition switch. Note that a significant voltage drop across the relay contacts may not properly power up the ECM. Pull out a wiring diagram and jump the relay to see if the engine starts. The section of the main relay that powers up the fuel pump gets its juice via the ignition switch. If a contact within the switch goes bad, you may lose voltage to the pump during or after a cranking. Try wiggling the ignition key to see if you can keep the engine running.
Sometimes the computer won't ground the fuel pump section of the main relay during a crank. To check things out, locate the green wire with the black trace and jump it to ground. If the engine now starts, you most likely have a bad ECM.
Some other points to consider: Misfires that occur just off idle up to about 1500 rpm are frequently caused by clogged EGR intake passages. This causes all the recirculation gases to flow into one cylinder (usually No. 1), killing it.
If you encounter a surge during or ofter warmup on a Honda/Acura, check out the fast idle valve. Most vehicles produced from 1988 to 1995 have this valve located either behind the TPS (early models) or under the throttle body (later models). This valve has a thermowax element that uses heat from the coolant to close it, thereby reducing the idle speed. If this valve sticks open, however, it can cause a lean surge either while the engine is warming up or after it has fully warmed. If the fast idle valve isn't causing the surge, it may be that debris has wafted past the air filter and gotten stuck in the EACV (electronic air control valve), holding it open.
The EACV is usually mounted on the intake plenum. Most Honda/Acura models have separate air supply holes in the throttle body. Blocking one hole at a time while the engine is idling can quickly determine which port is passing the additional air, thereby causing the lean surge.
Don't assume that when you unplug the EACV and the rpm goes down you've found the problem. The fast idle valve could still be passing air. To check it out, with the engine fully warmed and coolant flowing to the valve, put your finger over the hole in the throttle body that feeds it. If rpm drops, the fast idle valve is stuck open. Unplugging the EACV should close it. With the EACV unplugged, block the hole that feeds it in the throttle body. If the rpm drops, something is holding open the EACV.
totally didnt read. i just switched the igniters.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sinner
General Discussion
18
01-26-2004 11:52 PM
