IowaTCoupe

Need Help~ $$$$ for solution!!!





I have been at a stand still for over a month and made absolutely ZERO progress and am fed up. I am offering $$$ for anyone who has a solution to make my car RUN. This ------ thing has gremlins living in it, i swear. If you would like to come down and troubleshoot yourself, I AM INVITING YOU NOW!!! If you can't fix it, or dont make any progress towards making it run better... no $$$... sorry~ But if you DO!!!.... $$$ !!!!!



If you do not know how to tune, or rebuild an engine, don't even bother replying... Because its just a waste of time (sorry, dont mean to be rude) but you will understand why after you read the issues:





B18a1 engine swapped into 1995 civic, boosted.



B18a1:

TT rods, Wesico pistons, ARP headstuds, Short block all new oem parts (water pump, oil pump, gaskets, etc)

Stock head. (non-vtec)

750cc R/C fuel injectors

OBD1 distributor from b18b

cable tranny converted to hydro

Clutch Masters stage 3 clutch

OBD1 d16 alternator. (bolts to b1

D16z6 speed sensor swapped onto LS tranny



1995 civic:

D16z6 engine harness

only wires altered were for GM 3 bar map sensor, and coolant temp fan switch.

P28 chipped ecu. CromePro tuning, P30 coding bin file with b18b (obd1) maps compensated for 750 injectors, gm 3 bar, and a few other little things (remove checksum, add datalogging, fuel tools, remove vtec, remove o2 input)

AEM uego wideband

255lph walbro fuel pump

all other sensors plugged right in.



***there are NO vacuum leaks. All coolant/heater lines are in stock formation(no shortcuts). Timing belt is PERFECTLY lined up. Ignition is ok i believe. Holds steady fuel pressure (verified w/ guage on line)

i have replaced the Throttle position sensor w/ brand new, and replaced the Idle Air Cntrl solenoid w/ brand new. It does not throw CEL's anymore, but still will not run.







Here are the symptoms... and NO ONE... and i mean NO ONE HAS been able to explain why this is happening.



The car cranks and starts fine. Once started, it holds steady RPMs at about 1500 (cold idle). It stays there for 2-3 seconds, then drops to nothing, puts, and dies.



If i start it again, and step on the throttle... the engine cuts out... i let off the throttle, and it comes back up, but wants to die... So by fluttering gas, it will get the rpms up higher. Once at a higher rpm where it runs, i tried this... AND THIS IS WHAT NO ONE CAN EXPLAIN:

If i hold the throttle @ a certian point to say, 4k rpm... i will not move my foot... the engine will stay there for 2-3 seconds, then drop to nothing and die... THUS, ELIMINATING the un-tuned charicteristics of low rpms, or high vacuum.

The frustrating part is that i can't get an accurate wideband reading, because the ------- ENGINE SHUTS OFF BEFORE THE AEM DOES ITS GOD DAMN COUNTING START UP ROUTINE!!!!



Now here is the real zinger....

I managed to get out of my driveway w/ the car by bliping the throttle... i drove up the street a bit... and as soon as the engine bogged enough and built a little boost, the thing CAME TO LIFE!!! AND RIPPED!!!! but only in boost.





WHY WONT THE ------- CAR RUN?!?!?!

Hooked up cromepro datalogging, and ALL SENSORS ARE READING OK!!!

I think it is most likely a fuel problem... but even still... it shouldn't just CUT OUT INSTANTLY!!!

I've tried switching plugs, re-gaping plugs, altering fuel pressure a little bit, but getting the proper fuel pressure is hard WHEN THE ENGINE WONT ------- IDLE SO I CAN TAKE THE DAMN VACUUM LINE OFF to turn the fuel pressure regulator!!!










This damn thing has stumped ALL THE SMARTES HONDA / ACURA PEOPLE I KNOW AROUND rHODE iSLAND, and even the smart guys that friends of mine know... everyone is stumped!!!
If your close to Rhode Island and want to make some bucks if you can.... Let me know!!!

stillnoturbo

You try tossing in a stock ecu and injectors to get it running? I mean did you ever have it running before you boosted it or did you do it all in one shot...built engine, swap, boost, fuel management. It'd be a little easier to narrow down to know if it was running before you started doing stuff to it.

IowaTCoupe

I had a Z6 built and boosted in it before. Cracked sleeve.
The ECU, and harness all worked perfect before the swap... W/ the new engine... it doesnt work now. I do not have stock injectors, or a stock b18b ecu to try... But if anyone is close or kinda local, be my guest to come try!!!

But if stock injectors and ecu work... that still leaves me w/ the problem of why my setup wont ------- run.

Damn Dingleberries, i'm frustrated still.

IowaTCoupe

arrrrgh, i want my car fixed.

0b00st0

Swapped TPS and MAP?


If not, it just sounds like it is untuned. Try having the key on and let the AEM warm up. Then start the engine. That way you'll get readings right away. My PLX does the same thing. It take about 45 seconds to warm up and report acurate readings.

IowaTCoupe

TPS and map are now swapped... i had the GM 3 bar map sensor in my d16 setup... converted the plug... so they cant be mixed up.

if it's in the tune... it must be WAY out of wack... Here is the map i have... look off ??!




And i can't afford the gas to trailer it to Jersey!!! that's like 6-7 hours one way!!! Plus the little problem that i dont have a trailer.

0b00st0

You have 750's and a GM 3BAR. Little changes to the fuel make a big difference in the vacuum portion of the map.

It just needs tuning.

zebvaj

Did you try adjusting the TPS and Main Enrich? Mines did that until I adjusted it. Try making a map in Uberdata and then putting it in to see if it works. If it does then its gotta be something within your fuel variables.