Godov

no external oil line needed. there is a little plug in the top of the block you have to remove. anything that touches the timing belt has to be from the vtec, vtec head gasket, vtec water neck, thats about it really if you need more ill try and find another post on it an repost, and i have a few pictures from my beginning stage of mine if i can figure out how to post em
you can see where the plug was right above where the oil filter goes. its that big hole right near the edge of the block, just pull on it it comes out real easy

Tom-Guy

Eh, it's the same block, just the crank is an unbalanced pile. If you boost any F or H, except S2K or H22, you really really really should have the crank balanced (or swap for H22).

That, and dont expect the oil pump gears to last four hours. Pro-drive pls.

CIVIC.93

okay thanks so I say ---- this idea.

Tom-Guy

Yeah, $100-125 for a spin balance, so you can have big bore/big displacement/big power/big reliability, that's totally stupid.

Hey, why don't you just buy a D16, feed it 4-10 degrees too much timing, and claim 225whp is max safe before the bottom end falls out? That seems ri-ight up your alley.

stenseltizm

Can you explain what you ment about this? I've been trying to research the pros/cons of the H/F series.
Thanks

Tom-Guy

Stock honduh oil pump gears are cast from powdered metal. They are plenty strong stock, but as power/harmonic/vibration levels go up they start to suck ----. We're on the third stock pump with stevo's h22 and prodrive gears are on order. The first crank was slightly bent, which could be the only problem with the oil pump at the 350 whp level... But given what these engines will do why stop there? Search don flores posts about bottom oiler engines on ht and m24x for more good hard tech on h/f series.

necro

U would also need a oil squirter. If u plan on redlining like the H22.

Tom-Guy

Oil squirters are useless.