HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum - GSR OIL SQUIRTERS IN A LS BLOCK. PICS

So a few weeks ago I was on the freeway and playing around if a bemmer and after a couple hard pulls my coolant temp was pinned. I pulled over and let in cool down for a while; started it back up and drove home. I had to pull over every mile or two because of the overheating. My first thought was the headgasket. It was night so I couldn't really tell if it was smoking, but it had a burn coolant smell. Pulled the head off and found a crack in the #3 cylinder. ----!!! The next day I pulled the motor and disassembled it. All the internals were good, so I started looking for a new block. As most of you know finding a good GSR block is pretty tough and the ones you do find are spendy. I decided to go the route of a LS block and make some mods to meet my liking. One of which will be a gsr oil squirter install. Again, as most of you know b-series vtec blocks came from honda with oil squirters at top of the main web that shot oil at the bottom of the piston. Non-vtec b-series block do not have these. I did a little searching on the web and found the most people feel that installing squirter in a non-vtec block would require tons of money and a bunch of machine work. So I decided to do a write-up on my LS oil squirter install. I'm sure there a different and/or better ways, but this was mine.

Note: Not everyone agrees that oil squirters are necessary in an engine. Some say they lube the cylinders and pins, and cool the piston. Others say its not worth it, they don't do that much of a difference or hurt oil pressure. Personally I like and concept of them, I've never had a issue with oil pressure, and like the "every little bit helps" motto, so they're going in. 100% personally preference.

Parts List:
-4 OEM Honda oil squiters and bolts
-4 brass washers
-8mm x 0.75 pitch tap
-red loc-tite

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Pic of my car for starters

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Here's the crack in #3. Could probably sleeve it, but I'm too cheap

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These are the oil squirters in a GSR block. Honda has them on a raised surface with a second small hole to keep them from spinning.

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B18B non-vtec LS bare block from the junkyard. $200 (came as a short block)

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The LS block has the same oil passage as the GSR, but there are no raised surfaces for the squirters. Come off the main web about ½” and drill a 7mm hole into the oil passage. Make sure you drill straight down to give the squirters the best chance to seat properly later.

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After the holes are drilled you will need to grind the top of the passage to make a flat surface. This will allow the squirters to seat and seal. Grind just enough to give yourself a flat ring around the hole. The less material you remove, the more material you can thread later.

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All four holes drilled and ground flat.

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This was the only special tool I had to buy. It’s hard to find because of the size. I ordered mine from my snap-on guy and it took about a week to get. It’s a 8mm x 0.75 ultra fine pitch tap. This is the thread of stock Honda oil squirter bolts. Special order + snap-on = $20.

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Tap the holes with a tap driver and extension. Obviously a t-handle won’t fit.

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Oil squirters out of my old GSR. Notice the tab on it that is used to keep it from spinning.

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Grind the tab off to give yourself a flat surface on the bottom of the squirter. Because I ground the oil passage flat only where the squirter mounts there is no way for it to spin or move then the bolt is tight. Plus, it must be removed to allow the brass washer to sit down flat.

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Another mod to the squirter is to bend it a little. Because the LS block doesn’t have that raised seat like the GSR does the tube needs to be bent straight and then point upward at the end. Just putting it in a vise will straighten the tube, then just bend the tip with some pliers.

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#14 small brass washers from home depot ($1.25). I decided to use brass because its soft enough that it will have a slight crush that will help seal between the block and squirter.

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The hole is around 7mm, so they will need to be drilled with a 8mm drill bit. Then just rub them against a fine file with your finger to debur and smooth them.

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The washer will seal the place in the squirter and direct oil to the tube.

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Clean all the passages really well. I used some brake clean and then ran the garden hose through it for quit awhile. Put a small amount of loc-tite on the threads and screw them in. Make sure you don’t over tighten the bolts and strip the threads. All done! Depending on how well you are at grinding the block will determine how well the squirters will seal. If they leak a little bit it’s ok. It won’t be enough to drop oil pressure and it will just drip back into the pan. For under $25 and no machining you can put vtec oil squirters in a non-vtec block.