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ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

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Old 02-03-2006, 01:24 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

Thanks!
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Old 02-03-2006, 02:04 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

Originally Posted by rudebwoy
calm down luis. I go your back
Great, i just graduated from street fighting to two guys homo erotica story..i bet you "go" his back....leave that ---- at home ladies....
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Old 02-03-2006, 04:31 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

Originally Posted by 2BG4HNDA
Great, i just graduated from street fighting to two guys homo erotica story..i bet you "go" his back....leave that ---- at home ladies....
Wow, V8 in a light car like the Miata...that should prove to be fun, but worthless in the end. Good luck with traction.

That said, go for a 351.
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:54 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

so when u going to start
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Old 02-03-2006, 07:39 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

you could make 400hp easy off of a 351w still n/a
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:00 AM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

Originally Posted by rawr
you could make 400hp easy off of a 351w still n/a
351 = taller deck height then 302.....= big gay cowl induction hood....assuming this goes together a 347 is the way to go......
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:48 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

Originally Posted by 2BG4HNDA
351 = taller deck height then 302.....= big gay cowl induction hood....assuming this goes together a 347 is the way to go......
He's right, The only thing that will fit from the ford family is a 302. 347 is definatly the way to go but the problem is the oil pan. You have to use the kit oil pan to do the swap and when you use this oil pan with a stroked motor it wont fit over the crank and the stock oil pan wont work with the kit without cutting the subframe. I figured I might just leave it at 302 and call it a day, unless morso makes something. As far as starting .I'm work in on ordering the trans T-5 world sport fully upgraded. Then my tax return should cover the rest for the kit.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:22 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

this sounds like a great project, hope you pull it off successfully and take pics and post them up.
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Old 06-11-2006, 02:23 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

Originally Posted by trebor_nordap
this sounds like a great project, hope you pull it off successfully and take pics and post them up.
Use a World "Man-O-War" block and a 4.125-inch bore with a 3.25-inch stroke in a 8.2-inch deck height block (same deck height as original "OHV" Windsor V8 engines from 1963 -- 221, 260, 289, 302 and an experimental 327 that used rods from a 292 "Y-block" engine). Ford used the same basic block design on all those engines, even the Boss 302, but there are "minor" differences like accessory bolt holes, the thicknesses of main webs and cylinders -- and in the case of the B302, 4-bolt mains.

Most ordinary production 302 blocks are good, imho, for 500-600 hp at the flywheel; what you get at the drive wheels is going to be a function of drivetrain efficiency. I've seen some pretty insane "302" builds, including one turbo version for a street-driven Mustang that made well over 1000 hp (I don't remember the exact figure) -- and I've NEVER even heard of a Ford (or Ford aftermarket replacement/equivalent) block splitting from the power.

I have seen a 4.25-inch-stroke steel crank split a Chrysler RB block (one of the "heavy castings" having thick walls even after being bored to 4.370 inches) in half when the engine grenaded. The fault wasn't that of the block or of the crankshaft, but of the machine shop that failed to include proper fillets on the journals -- so if you see pieces fly or a destroyed block, don't assume that it was because the block was junk.

There are girdles for the bottom end, and if you're thinking about making serious power, I'd recommend their use -- but that's pretty much "Engine Building 101" for heavy hitters. I've never heard of anyone strapping the banks together beyond what is done by assembling the parts in a normal manner.

If you're building a racecar, your power limit is pretty much going to be limited only by the flow of your heads; after that, it's going to be a function of your BSFC. Because modern heads flow so well, this isn't a problem on the street: your best solution is going to be based on minimizing your BSFC at whatever airflow supports your target power.

That may sound a little convoluted, but it boils down to this: combustion chamber performance is ... on the street ... more important than whether you're running Canfield or "GT40" or "twisted wedge" heads, etc.: ALL of those heads will flow well enough for you to make all the streetable power your engine can generate.

For a RICE (reciprocating, internal-combustion engine) having poppet valves and fueled by gasoline, excepting the use of nitrous oxide as a power adder, the practical horsepower limit for a streetable car can be approximated by this formula:

D = (SQRT(35421))-((W-565) * 0.0311127)

where D is the maximum horsepower per actual liter of swept displacement, and

where W is the loaded weight of the vehicle, expressed in pounds, and

SQRT is a mathematical operator indicating the square root of the following number, and

the asterisk is used in substitution of a lower case x to represent multiplication.


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Old 06-11-2006, 03:20 PM
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Default Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.

Holy ----!!!! you know your stuff
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