ford V8's for mazda miata swap.
#42
Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.
Originally Posted by rudebwoy
calm down luis. I go your back
#43
Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.
Originally Posted by 2BG4HNDA
Great, i just graduated from street fighting to two guys homo erotica story..i bet you "go" his back....leave that ---- at home ladies....
That said, go for a 351.
#46
Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.
Originally Posted by rawr
you could make 400hp easy off of a 351w still n/a
#47
Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.
Originally Posted by 2BG4HNDA
351 = taller deck height then 302.....= big gay cowl induction hood....assuming this goes together a 347 is the way to go......
#49
Re: ford V8's for mazda miata swap.
Originally Posted by trebor_nordap
this sounds like a great project, hope you pull it off successfully and take pics and post them up.
Most ordinary production 302 blocks are good, imho, for 500-600 hp at the flywheel; what you get at the drive wheels is going to be a function of drivetrain efficiency. I've seen some pretty insane "302" builds, including one turbo version for a street-driven Mustang that made well over 1000 hp (I don't remember the exact figure) -- and I've NEVER even heard of a Ford (or Ford aftermarket replacement/equivalent) block splitting from the power.
I have seen a 4.25-inch-stroke steel crank split a Chrysler RB block (one of the "heavy castings" having thick walls even after being bored to 4.370 inches) in half when the engine grenaded. The fault wasn't that of the block or of the crankshaft, but of the machine shop that failed to include proper fillets on the journals -- so if you see pieces fly or a destroyed block, don't assume that it was because the block was junk.
There are girdles for the bottom end, and if you're thinking about making serious power, I'd recommend their use -- but that's pretty much "Engine Building 101" for heavy hitters. I've never heard of anyone strapping the banks together beyond what is done by assembling the parts in a normal manner.
If you're building a racecar, your power limit is pretty much going to be limited only by the flow of your heads; after that, it's going to be a function of your BSFC. Because modern heads flow so well, this isn't a problem on the street: your best solution is going to be based on minimizing your BSFC at whatever airflow supports your target power.
That may sound a little convoluted, but it boils down to this: combustion chamber performance is ... on the street ... more important than whether you're running Canfield or "GT40" or "twisted wedge" heads, etc.: ALL of those heads will flow well enough for you to make all the streetable power your engine can generate.
For a RICE (reciprocating, internal-combustion engine) having poppet valves and fueled by gasoline, excepting the use of nitrous oxide as a power adder, the practical horsepower limit for a streetable car can be approximated by this formula:
D = (SQRT(35421))-((W-565) * 0.0311127)
where D is the maximum horsepower per actual liter of swept displacement, and
where W is the loaded weight of the vehicle, expressed in pounds, and
SQRT is a mathematical operator indicating the square root of the following number, and
the asterisk is used in substitution of a lower case x to represent multiplication.
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goldhatch94
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05-21-2007 06:49 PM