block guard issues...
#1
block guard issues...
sup guys, im planning on buying my boys built d-series bottom end. all it needs is rods, and i plan to make a hole in the back of the block for a air catch can like the b-series come with.
i know the block has a block guard, but i'm afraid that extra holes were not drilled in it to help the coolant flow in the water jackets like larry at endyn likes to do. the block guard is already pressed in, and the block has all the bearings pressed in. can i still have someone drill the holes, or is it too late. i dont wanna buy the block and then end up having to build a new one.
please shed some light on the matter for me. all help is appreciated.
i know the block has a block guard, but i'm afraid that extra holes were not drilled in it to help the coolant flow in the water jackets like larry at endyn likes to do. the block guard is already pressed in, and the block has all the bearings pressed in. can i still have someone drill the holes, or is it too late. i dont wanna buy the block and then end up having to build a new one.
please shed some light on the matter for me. all help is appreciated.
#4
Re:block guard issues...
I dont know blockguards have been used in some pretty high power applications. Being around dave from dhr for years I saw plenty of his builds make low 400's and mid 10's on blockguards. They were all welded in.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re:block guard issues...
Originally Posted by chris
I dont know blockguards have been used in some pretty high power applications. Being around dave from dhr for years I saw plenty of his builds make low 400's and mid 10's on blockguards. They were all welded in.
#7
Re:block guard issues...
So the it's a bare block with only the crank installed?
You should be able to drill out the holes if so. Put some grease in the drill veins to catch some shavings. Use a high pressure nozzel to clean the passages. Clean the cylinder walls with whatever alcohol or solvent you use after.
To be safe, you could remove the crank.
Block guards are fine if they are the right kind. From my experience, the problems arise from the small passage type that don't allow the coolant to pass.
You should be able to drill out the holes if so. Put some grease in the drill veins to catch some shavings. Use a high pressure nozzel to clean the passages. Clean the cylinder walls with whatever alcohol or solvent you use after.
To be safe, you could remove the crank.
Block guards are fine if they are the right kind. From my experience, the problems arise from the small passage type that don't allow the coolant to pass.
#9
Re:block guard issues...
Originally Posted by whiterice
So the it's a bare block with only the crank installed?
You should be able to drill out the holes if so. Put some grease in the drill veins to catch some shavings. Use a high pressure nozzel to clean the passages. Clean the cylinder walls with whatever alcohol or solvent you use after.
To be safe, you could remove the crank.
Block guards are fine if they are the right kind. From my experience, the problems arise from the small passage type that don't allow the coolant to pass.
You should be able to drill out the holes if so. Put some grease in the drill veins to catch some shavings. Use a high pressure nozzel to clean the passages. Clean the cylinder walls with whatever alcohol or solvent you use after.
To be safe, you could remove the crank.
Block guards are fine if they are the right kind. From my experience, the problems arise from the small passage type that don't allow the coolant to pass.
i would like to get crower billet rods, and have the rods and pistons balanced. also, cleaning up the piston would lower compression and help reduce chances of detonation with a smoothed out dome .
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re:block guard issues...
1: you get the crank balanced, not the rods and pistons
2: "cleaning up" the pistons is not really going to lower your compression, because if you take off enough material to lower compression, you took off too much
and it has rod bolts but no rods?...how much are you paying for this again?
2: "cleaning up" the pistons is not really going to lower your compression, because if you take off enough material to lower compression, you took off too much
and it has rod bolts but no rods?...how much are you paying for this again?