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-   -   block guard issues... (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/hybrid-tech-8/block-guard-issues-25251/)

pendejon 08-22-2004 08:06 PM

block guard issues...
 
sup guys, im planning on buying my boys built d-series bottom end. all it needs is rods, and i plan to make a hole in the back of the block for a air catch can like the b-series come with.

i know the block has a block guard, but i'm afraid that extra holes were not drilled in it to help the coolant flow in the water jackets like larry at endyn likes to do. the block guard is already pressed in, and the block has all the bearings pressed in. can i still have someone drill the holes, or is it too late. i dont wanna buy the block and then end up having to build a new one.

please shed some light on the matter for me. all help is appreciated.

turboboy 08-23-2004 12:38 AM

Re:block guard issues...
 
just having a block guard does not make it built ;) i personally would stay away from it

ProzacOverdose 08-23-2004 12:48 AM

Re:block guard issues...
 
very true.....i personally hate cheap block guards. get it done right. there should be enough block guard post here to answer why we dont like them!

Guy-Fast 08-23-2004 01:31 AM

Re:block guard issues...
 
I dont know blockguards have been used in some pretty high power applications. Being around dave from dhr for years I saw plenty of his builds make low 400's and mid 10's on blockguards. They were all welded in.

turboboy 08-23-2004 01:38 AM

Re:block guard issues...
 

Originally Posted by chris
I dont know blockguards have been used in some pretty high power applications. Being around dave from dhr for years I saw plenty of his builds make low 400's and mid 10's on blockguards. They were all welded in.

probably not a street car though...some of the designs look decent if put in right

Guy-Fast 08-23-2004 02:07 AM

Re:block guard issues...
 
They were street driven cars but far from daily driven just weekend/track cars. He had is own line that didnt have cooling problems but he hasnt had them for years.

whiterice 08-23-2004 02:57 AM

Re:block guard issues...
 
So the it's a bare block with only the crank installed?
You should be able to drill out the holes if so. Put some grease in the drill veins to catch some shavings. Use a high pressure nozzel to clean the passages. Clean the cylinder walls with whatever alcohol or solvent you use after.
To be safe, you could remove the crank.
Block guards are fine if they are the right kind. From my experience, the problems arise from the small passage type that don't allow the coolant to pass.

HMT-Admin 08-23-2004 08:18 AM

Re:block guard issues...
 
The only way I would EVER have a block guard is if it was welded in, holes were decently sized so coolant could flow and the block was decked and bore/honed after.


pendejon 08-23-2004 11:26 PM

Re:block guard issues...
 

Originally Posted by whiterice
So the it's a bare block with only the crank installed?
You should be able to drill out the holes if so. Put some grease in the drill veins to catch some shavings. Use a high pressure nozzel to clean the passages. Clean the cylinder walls with whatever alcohol or solvent you use after.
To be safe, you could remove the crank.
Block guards are fine if they are the right kind. From my experience, the problems arise from the small passage type that don't allow the coolant to pass.

thank you, that sounds good. my friend has a block guard that is in his built motor making 400+whp, but properly flowing cooling. i dont know about welding block guards, but both his and the one in the block im considering buying has the guard. and for your info, the block has arp rod bolts, arp head bolts, je 9:1 pistons, and a block guard. new bearings, etc.

i would like to get crower billet rods, and have the rods and pistons balanced. also, cleaning up the piston would lower compression and help reduce chances of detonation with a smoothed out dome :).

turboboy 08-24-2004 10:47 AM

Re:block guard issues...
 
1: you get the crank balanced, not the rods and pistons
2: "cleaning up" the pistons is not really going to lower your compression, because if you take off enough material to lower compression, you took off too much

and it has rod bolts but no rods?...how much are you paying for this again?


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