Slo_crx1

Lol he's referring to the inherent 1.75:1 legend. Still want to see how my ls bottom is going to hold out...just have to save for some machine work. Almost dropped a nut when they handed me the quote. :P

Tom-Guy

I had no idea Eagles, Wisecos, and ACLs were horrendously expensive to install.

Seriously, a lot of people give you a list of stupid parts "you have to buy" but all you really need to do is replace stock rods, make sure you have good oil pressure and you aren't exceeding valvetrain capabilities, and hold the gas pedal to the floor.

:P

EG6 Civic

im only going to be reving to 8000 or 8500, just because its suppost to be a safe rpm range for stock B20 Vtecs, but ill have a built bottom end so i shouldnt have any worries. 8500 rpms and 5 psi should be good enough for me

Slo_crx1

Tsk Tsk JD...I do all my own assembly work. This one's just supposed to be a budget build (if you want to call it that in n/a form ) that I'm using stock pr4 rods with the arp bolts and a quick shotpeening. Actually, the shotpeening was the cheapest price they told me...$20. It's the balancing, micropolishing, straightening the crank, line bores, hot tanking, rod bolts being put on and line bored, pressing the pistons off the old rods and onto the pr4's that's adding up. They told me almost $750 for what I just listed...and they're not even boring the block out. Dude's are on crack :P

Tom-Guy

What's wrong with the engine that it needs all that work? I think they are trying to sell you a bunch of ---- you don't need, and/or that they aren't going to do.

Slo_crx1

Some of the work is more or less for my peace of mind. The ARP bolts is a must, and therefore I need to have the big end of the rod resized regardless. Crank micro-polishing I wanted done to help decrease on friction and decrease chances of catching a bearing and spinning one. Hot tank should be pretty well obvious...can't build a dirt block and expect great things from it And then there's the pistons...using pr3 slugs, but they need to be pressed off and back on to the pr4's. The shotpeening once again was for my peace of mind. Balancing the rotating assembly was something I could probably do without, as I've decided due to current budget limitations that 8500 rpm will be more than sufficient. More than likely I'd bend or stretch a stock rod at any higher of an rpm regardless of how well balanced it was. That work was a big chunk of change...around the tune of $375 for the full deal. After looking at the block again I gave it a quick hone to break the glaze, and I probably should just over-bore seeing that there is a groove at the top of the sleeve on all 4 cylinders from where the rings stopped at the peak of the rod's upward motion.

Tom-Guy

Skip the shot peen, Honduh rods are factory forgings; they are strong from internal grain flow, where cast carries a lot of it's strength in it's skin and those are the rods that gain noticeable strength from shot peening.

I'd worry about bores shortly after I worried about rod big ends, since they need sized for the new fasteners.

Slo_crx1

Yeah, rod ends are a definate. The thing that really got on my nerves was the guy said there was a 50/50 chance he'd break the pr3's while pressing them off and on again. I used to have a mini press setup for my d-series pistons, just warmed the little end up a bit and they slid out like butter...never broke one. We'll see how the finacial situation goes before I dump a buttload of cash on this worthless build :P