Honda16hb

anybody ever had that problem with a wet temp sensor not giving a reading? I'll get some pics up as soon as I can, you just have to tell me how to fix my temp gauge problem because I get a little worried about how hot things are after I redline the first 3 gears.

88crxSi

I redline the first 4 gears in my rex and it seems fine..

BTW I split this into a new topic... other one is getting enormous!!

either way, I'm glad to here the sucker is running.

Honda16hb

that worried me, I didn't remember posting another topic.

well it was running for a while until today when the radiator cracked open and my spark plug wire holes are filled up with oil, and then I drove it 20 miles. It's a bitch to start now, but the battery is pretty low, I'm really hoping that that is the problem. I was even taking it easy when the radiator cracked, but I still have no temp reading. Is the one that sends the reading to the gauge the one under the distributor or the one on the back of the block? I don't know if the one on the back of the block is hooked up correctly, I unplugged it today (after radiator explosion) and I didn't get a check engine light. I do get a check engine light when the one under the dizzy is unplugged.

all this after I raced 3 runs last night without a problem. I raced an mx-3 with a jdm v-6 in it. the first run I forget to take my e-brake off (the road we race on is slanted down hill), the second run we started at about the same time and I beat him by a car or 2. third time he got the start on me but I caught him and once my bumber was ahead of his I let off and he kept going and called the race his. I think he knows my car is faster though. there was a b18b turbo 5th gen hatch there that raced a 5.0 mustang, I didn't see it and I don't know who one, but it was probably a good race even though the b18 only had a t25.

are there any ways I can check to see if I really fucked anything up by over heating without taking my engine apart?

Honda16hb

does anybody know which wire going to the gauge cluster is for the temp gauge? I want to just run a wire from the ecu to the gauge since I know that the ecu is getting the signal since it throws a code when I unplug the temp sensor under the dizzy.

Honda16hb

well I found out a few things. the red/wht and grn/wht wires on the right side of the block (near the dizzy) goes to the ecu. the thing on the back of the block with blk and yel/grn wires goes to the fan relay. and the sensor directly under the dizzy goes to the gauge (yel/grn). I got all my wiring fixed and put in my new radiator and it started. I only let it idle long enough for the temp gauge to start rising so that I knew it was working. I went back to start it and it wouldn't start, it spins and sputters a bit but no starting action. there's fuel dripping from somewhere, it comes down from my exhaust and I can't really tell if it's spilling out where my test pipe meets the header (from the engine) or if it's dripping down onto there from somewhere I'll check it out tomarrow when there's light and let you know what's up.

projekteg

maybe you should go to church

88crxSi

sounds flooded. take out plugs, dry them off let air out for a bit and try again.

Honda16hb

who's ready for a story? the ---- pouring from my test pipe/header connection was a mix of coolant and gas, and it was coming from the engine. I pulled out my spark plugs and they were all wet from something (couldn't really tell) and my first 3 cylinders were full of something. I kept cranking the engine trying to get the ---- out of my cylinders but it wouldn't go away. I rolled up some paper towels and stuck them in my spark plug holes and cranked it, they all shot out, it was pretty fun to watch. Eventually, after a few hours of trying to dry out my cylinders my dad comes home and tells me my engine is fucked because I have coolant pouring into my cylinders. the block seems to be fine since the pistons go up and down pretty good and there's no coolant in the oil (checked on dip stick several times).

I am now working on taking off the head to see if it's cracked or just warped. If it's warped I'll take it to a machine sop and seewhat they can do with it. If it's cracked I'll cry like a litt school girl because I'll have to either find a b-series replacement or put the good ol' d15b2 back in.

so far the valve cover is off, the fuel input is disconnected, most of the wiring is disconnected, and the vtec solenoid is off. how many bolts are on the timing belt cover? I've gotten the only 2 could see off and it's still holding on. When I take it to the machine shop do I need to take off the cams and all the valve train? while the head's off, does anybody do good and cheap port and polish work?

OnYx

I dont think your head is warped. i belive the head gasked is screwed and i bet its copper. Second i dont there is a such thing as a cheap port and polish, after all you pay for what you get. Hell ill do it for $20 but i have never done it before and ill use my dremmel lol. Get yourself a head gasket and then see where you are at after yuo pull the head. there is 2 bolts that hold the upper timing cover. make sure you loosen the tenciner (14mm ) before you pull the timing belt so it has some slack or youll have to buy a new one of them. you dident need to remove the VTEC cyl. but you do need to remove the dizzy. Im telling you tow the ---- up here and ill get you going lol.

Honda16hb

I've got to pull off the crank pulley to get the timing belt cover off don't I? that's what chilton says, but I don't trust him much anymore. Hopefully it is just my head gasket and hopefully it isn't copper. the reason I think the head is fucked is because I blew the radiator and then drove it about 20 miles before I realized it was the radiator that blew and not the resevoir.