Slo_crx1

Your block is very tight as far as bearings are concerned. I can't see how it ran without spinning a bearing if they used brown's and green's in there...pink and yellow are very thin bearings, and if they had the other colors in there it should've spun a bearing or locked solid. Only thing I can think of is if the block already spun a bearing once and the mains were honed out and the crank was turned. You can use the standard ACL set with the brown and green sets and should have good clearance, but plastigauge it to be 100% sure. Oh, and #3 main should be a hair looser in specs than the others. Check the specs in the handbook when you gauge it out.

Snail Oto

so the way i read it was right ? it should have been pink and yellow instead of brown ? so i guess some one have replace the bearing once ........

Slo_crx1

Yeah, I just checked the stamp codes and according to what you posted you should have pink, yellow, green, yellow, yellow. If the crank has never been touched or turned, the ACL's will not work and will bind up on the crank when you torque the main bolts. You might even (as was my case on a set of King bearings) break one of the bolts off in the block. Best bet is to mic' the crank and see what reading you come up with and compare it to the stock size in the books...that'll tell you if the crank's been cut or not.

Snail Oto

ic if the crank never been touch that mean the bearing is pink n yellow the acl std bearing will be way too tight but if it runing on green n brown then acl will be good clearance and the rod are all green so that will also be find with acl std right ? would you recomend race acl or just std .... thank so much for the info first time building a motor .... thank HMT the best ....