5th Gen 92-95 Civic CX B18B1 swap write-up!!!
03-21-2008, 10:12 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 367
5th Gen 92-95 Civic CX B18B1 swap write-up!!!
Hello to everyone on HMT!!!
I wrote a write-up a while ago on how to stuff a 96-00 D16Y8 head onto a D15B8/B7 block, and am never satisfied with 'enough' so I went ahead and did a budget motor swap after finding a good deal on a LS Longblock that I couldn't pass.
Before I begin MY swap was done using a OBD2 1996 Acura integra motor (B18B1), a 1995 Acura Integra LS Transmission, going into a 1992 Honda Civic CX, if you use my document for guidance and are using another combination of parts/cars I cannot guarantee my documents accuracy but will gladly offer guidance.
Tools needed:
Metric wrenches and sockets
32mm Axle Nut
24" Breaker Bar to use with axle nut
a GOOD torque wrench.
Shopping List:
FULL B18B1 OBD1 or OBD2 long block with wiring harness, it doesn't matter as the wiring harness of either will plug right into the shock-towers of a 92 civic (and in most cases anything from 92-95) You will want ALL the mounts attached to it, as well as the stablizer bracket/mounts on the bottom/front.
*BIG IMPORTANT NOTE*
Automatic B18B1 rear torque bracket, DOES NOT WORK, with manual trans, You have to use the one from a Manual trans.
B series Transmission (Whatever works really, I picked up a LS tranny due to price/availablity, don't forget all the sensors, the fork/bearing, and starter...
ALSO all mounts and brackets attached to it
1994-2000 Acura Integra LS Axles and midshaft (Automatic OR manual, don't matter, Mine are from an auto, bolted right up)
EVERYTHING BETWEEN THE 2 (Clutch/Flywheel/pressure plate)
Don't forget hardware for everything (including the bolts for the mid-shaft, bolts for the trans, bolts for the flywheel, etc, EVERYTHING)
1994-2000 Acura Integra Shift linkage and stablizer bar.
PR4 or P75 OBD 1 Manual ECU. (The last few digits you will notice on the ECU will say "A02" or "A51" 50 and above are ECU's for an AUTOMATIC, below 50 are MANUAL. I am running an OBD1 PR4, and it fired right up, only CEL was for no O2 *didn't have the exhaust mounted at the time, so no O2 was plugged in)
TO DISPEL ANY RUMORS OR QUESTIONS:
ALL MOTOR MOUNTS AND BRACKETS FOR THIS SWAP ARE FROM THE 1994-2000 ACURA INTEGRA LS MOTOR, the ONLY things interchangeable with the civic, is the MOUNT attached to the frame of the civic, that attaches to the rear trans/motor mount (Torque brace or "T Bracket") and the TOP transmission mount is interchangeable between my D15B8 CX trans and manual LS Transmissions
Plumbing:
A few changes in hosing occur in this swap, so you will need:
the LONGER hose off the teggy motor that goes to the heater core, the rest can be used from the civic.
the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, as the civics is too short, you will need to use the fuel line from an integra.
*You may need the upper and lower rad hoses too, I dunno since my motor came with them and the worked, I'll check later if they are close enough to the civics to re-use your origionals, although I believe the water necks off the block are LARGER than the civics, so you will most likely need these hoses*
-EDIT- Civic Upper and lower rad hoses are too small to fit onto the water necks of the B18B1, You have to use Integra Upper and lower rad hoses, and just tighten the hell out of them on the radiator to make sure you don't leak.
if I'm forgetting anything let me know guys!
Chapter 1:
Pull the old one out.
This is FAR easier said than done, and I feel was the HARDEST part of the project.
Drain your coolant/oil before you get ahead of yourself so you don't get drenched in fluids
Once all your fluids are empty, remove your Radiator, and put your drain plug back in again.
At this point, continue to disconnect everything, Specifically be aware of Grounds, Vacuum lines, and the heater-core lines. once the motor has NOTHING but the mounts holding it place we can get to the axles and linkage.
To pop out your axles you have to start by punching out the axle nut *If you look at the axle nut you will see what I mean* VERY easy, a small flat-head screw driver worked just fine for me
Next step is breaking the axle nuts loose with the car still on the ground, I had to stand and jump on my breaker bar (225lbs) to get it to get loose, but it didn't take too long luckily or require any PB Blaster.
Once this is loose take your wheels off and pull the cotter pins out of the castle nuts on your lower ball joints, then remove the castle nut *17mm IIRC*
Once these nuts are off smack on the sides of where the ball join sits *The metal part, not the joint* to help shake it a little loose, then pull up on your knuckle to get the balljoint to drop off the knuckle. (My car was a city car, so they practically fell out)
Once that joint has been dropped, remove your lower strut fork bolt to finish dropping your lower control arm so once the axle is loose, it will be able to come out *As you cannot fit the axle through the fork*
you can now tug the axles out of the transmission, you may need a heavy duty long flat-head screwdriver or a Pry-Bar to pop them out of the trans (I used a 10lb Crow-bar for the driver side, and a big flat head for the pass side due to the clearance)
once your axles are out, the next big step is getting the linkage and stablizer bars off the car. (This took me nearly 4 hours, you have been warned)
First thing is to drop everything under the passenger compartment as far as the linkage and stabilizer bar goes. Be sure to coat it all in PB blaster if you live in the mid-west as my car only had 100K on it, but was a city car, so all the bolts were rusted to ---- *But the body was undercoated, so everything else survived
* (Basically unbolt everything under the car related to the shifter where the shifter comes through the floor, be sure to remove the shiftknob, the boot, and center console before doing this so it will be able to drop out of the car, this took me a LONG time because most everything was rusted away, take your time, I'd almost recommend dropping your exhaust to make it easier)
Once that has all been dropped you can unbolt the stablizer from your transmission (2 12mm bolts IIRC) and the stabilizer will be totally removed, now the last thing between you and victory is the bitch pin:
*a friend of mine holding the bitch pin*
You are supposed to be able to punch that out of the transmission where the linkage attaches or you can just cut the linkage off right there...
I choose the later,
a $5 hack saw, and 2 min of sawing later it was free. (BE SURE TO CUT THE LINKAGE AFTER THE COUPLER *as per the pic*, AND NOT THE PART ATTACHED TO THE TRANSMISSION)
I broke 2 punches and a screwdriver on it trying to get it out, it is a BITCH.
I've read that a bolt from your AC Compressor is a PERFECT fit for this pin, and makes it alot easier, although I'd recommend planning on it not being re-used after this.
Once the axles are out, the linkage is all dropped, and everything is disconnected, remove your radiator so it is out of the way when you are lifting and dropping your engines.
You can now chain up your engine hoist and get ready to rip that ****** out!
You are best off removing the mounts from both the car and the engine so they are all out of your way.
once all the mounts are off, rip it out!
Chapter 2:
Once its out,
Get your new one in!
(Be sure again, to remove the lower stabilizer brackets off the trans and engine before dropping in the motor, but be sure to LEAVE the top trans and top motor mount still attached. Also If you have an automatic engine, be sure to remove the bracket that 'supports' the intake manifold off the back block as it will block you from being able to put the T-bracket in later. *I'm still working on a few 'snafoo's with the automatic engine with manual trans*)
Drop it in, bolting the 2 top mounts in once you have them in place, once they are both in place, put the rest of the mounts back on (T bracket will have to be put on from underneath, I haven't figured out a better way to do this just yet, maybe it is possible to leave it on while dropping in the engine)
Once the motor is in place you can begin re-attaching all the vac/coolant lines, and you can simply plug the OBD2 wiring harness into the OBD1 shock-towers without any problem.
attach the fuel, and power/grounds, and your girl will be ready to fire up!
At this point, you can put the 1994-2000 Integra axles/midshaft into the car
After that is done, re-attach all your suspension bits, get your wheels back on, tighten up your axle nuts and punch them back down so they won't back off.
Lastly, attach all your new 94-00 Integra LS shift linkage to your car, and transmission, be aware that you need all new shifter bushings as well because NOTHING from the civic shifter is reusable on this swap minus the mounts under the passenger compartment.
so once everything is back together again, Drop in your PR4 or P75 ECU and fire her up!
In closing, to answer a few questions, the car started right up with my chipped P05 (Chipped with Vtec for a D16Y8 mini-me swap DEFINATLY not meant for this motor) so if you don't have your integra ECU yet, you can still make sure the motor will start with a spare OBD1 ECU.
Also there is no need for any Acura Integra suspension bits for this swap at all aside from the axles.
Hope you all liked the read, this swap was my FIRST swap ever, and I felt it was EXTREMELY easy, and took me maybe 12 hours total (the Bitch Pin consuming about 4 of those hours, and I had to mount my flywheel/clutch/pressure plate and attach my transmission to my motor as well as the fact that I've NEVER done a motor swap before in my life, or installed a clutch!!!!!!)
*edit* forgot to mention if you didn't see the pics, I did it outside on a gravel driveway in the snow, so 12 hours for a first time swap outside in the snow is haulin *** if you ask me.
This swap is a GREAT cheap alternative to the common B16 SIR2 swap as well as an EVEN cheaper alternative to GSR/ITR swaps. Yes it won't rev as high, but its a very grunty motor and LOVES boost, and again is MUCH cheaper than other swaps.
I've spent sub $750 on EVERYTHING to get the motor in this car and ready to roll, only things I have left to buy are an ECU, some bolts, and a Teggy fuel line from the fuel filter. (So another maybe $65)
Happy Swapping!
Got some more money shots, and only one CEL codes *no primary O2* cause I don't have the downpipe with the O2 ON the car right now, so:
BIG IMPORTANT NOTE:
I dropped in a B18B1, Plugged in an OBD1 PR4, and got only one CEL for O2 *which wasn't attached*
This PROVES that OBD2 engines are simply a 'plug in, drop in' swap for an OBD1 car if you use the OBD2 wiring harness, and OBD1 shock-tower wiring.
*I dumped the fart-can, in favor of something simple*
*My friend Triumphantly holding the dead fart can*
The new muff:
Its Alive!!!:
I wrote a write-up a while ago on how to stuff a 96-00 D16Y8 head onto a D15B8/B7 block, and am never satisfied with 'enough' so I went ahead and did a budget motor swap after finding a good deal on a LS Longblock that I couldn't pass.
Before I begin MY swap was done using a OBD2 1996 Acura integra motor (B18B1), a 1995 Acura Integra LS Transmission, going into a 1992 Honda Civic CX, if you use my document for guidance and are using another combination of parts/cars I cannot guarantee my documents accuracy but will gladly offer guidance.
Tools needed:
Metric wrenches and sockets
32mm Axle Nut
24" Breaker Bar to use with axle nut
a GOOD torque wrench.
Shopping List:
FULL B18B1 OBD1 or OBD2 long block with wiring harness, it doesn't matter as the wiring harness of either will plug right into the shock-towers of a 92 civic (and in most cases anything from 92-95) You will want ALL the mounts attached to it, as well as the stablizer bracket/mounts on the bottom/front.
*BIG IMPORTANT NOTE*
Automatic B18B1 rear torque bracket, DOES NOT WORK, with manual trans, You have to use the one from a Manual trans.
B series Transmission (Whatever works really, I picked up a LS tranny due to price/availablity, don't forget all the sensors, the fork/bearing, and starter...
ALSO all mounts and brackets attached to it
1994-2000 Acura Integra LS Axles and midshaft (Automatic OR manual, don't matter, Mine are from an auto, bolted right up)
EVERYTHING BETWEEN THE 2 (Clutch/Flywheel/pressure plate)
Don't forget hardware for everything (including the bolts for the mid-shaft, bolts for the trans, bolts for the flywheel, etc, EVERYTHING)
1994-2000 Acura Integra Shift linkage and stablizer bar.
PR4 or P75 OBD 1 Manual ECU. (The last few digits you will notice on the ECU will say "A02" or "A51" 50 and above are ECU's for an AUTOMATIC, below 50 are MANUAL. I am running an OBD1 PR4, and it fired right up, only CEL was for no O2 *didn't have the exhaust mounted at the time, so no O2 was plugged in)
TO DISPEL ANY RUMORS OR QUESTIONS:
ALL MOTOR MOUNTS AND BRACKETS FOR THIS SWAP ARE FROM THE 1994-2000 ACURA INTEGRA LS MOTOR, the ONLY things interchangeable with the civic, is the MOUNT attached to the frame of the civic, that attaches to the rear trans/motor mount (Torque brace or "T Bracket") and the TOP transmission mount is interchangeable between my D15B8 CX trans and manual LS Transmissions
Plumbing:
A few changes in hosing occur in this swap, so you will need:
the LONGER hose off the teggy motor that goes to the heater core, the rest can be used from the civic.
the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, as the civics is too short, you will need to use the fuel line from an integra.
*You may need the upper and lower rad hoses too, I dunno since my motor came with them and the worked, I'll check later if they are close enough to the civics to re-use your origionals, although I believe the water necks off the block are LARGER than the civics, so you will most likely need these hoses*
-EDIT- Civic Upper and lower rad hoses are too small to fit onto the water necks of the B18B1, You have to use Integra Upper and lower rad hoses, and just tighten the hell out of them on the radiator to make sure you don't leak.
if I'm forgetting anything let me know guys!
Chapter 1:
Pull the old one out.
This is FAR easier said than done, and I feel was the HARDEST part of the project.
Drain your coolant/oil before you get ahead of yourself so you don't get drenched in fluids
Once all your fluids are empty, remove your Radiator, and put your drain plug back in again.
At this point, continue to disconnect everything, Specifically be aware of Grounds, Vacuum lines, and the heater-core lines. once the motor has NOTHING but the mounts holding it place we can get to the axles and linkage.
To pop out your axles you have to start by punching out the axle nut *If you look at the axle nut you will see what I mean* VERY easy, a small flat-head screw driver worked just fine for me
Next step is breaking the axle nuts loose with the car still on the ground, I had to stand and jump on my breaker bar (225lbs) to get it to get loose, but it didn't take too long luckily or require any PB Blaster.
Once this is loose take your wheels off and pull the cotter pins out of the castle nuts on your lower ball joints, then remove the castle nut *17mm IIRC*
Once these nuts are off smack on the sides of where the ball join sits *The metal part, not the joint* to help shake it a little loose, then pull up on your knuckle to get the balljoint to drop off the knuckle. (My car was a city car, so they practically fell out)
Once that joint has been dropped, remove your lower strut fork bolt to finish dropping your lower control arm so once the axle is loose, it will be able to come out *As you cannot fit the axle through the fork*
you can now tug the axles out of the transmission, you may need a heavy duty long flat-head screwdriver or a Pry-Bar to pop them out of the trans (I used a 10lb Crow-bar for the driver side, and a big flat head for the pass side due to the clearance)
once your axles are out, the next big step is getting the linkage and stablizer bars off the car. (This took me nearly 4 hours, you have been warned)
First thing is to drop everything under the passenger compartment as far as the linkage and stabilizer bar goes. Be sure to coat it all in PB blaster if you live in the mid-west as my car only had 100K on it, but was a city car, so all the bolts were rusted to ---- *But the body was undercoated, so everything else survived
* (Basically unbolt everything under the car related to the shifter where the shifter comes through the floor, be sure to remove the shiftknob, the boot, and center console before doing this so it will be able to drop out of the car, this took me a LONG time because most everything was rusted away, take your time, I'd almost recommend dropping your exhaust to make it easier)Once that has all been dropped you can unbolt the stablizer from your transmission (2 12mm bolts IIRC) and the stabilizer will be totally removed, now the last thing between you and victory is the bitch pin:
*a friend of mine holding the bitch pin*
You are supposed to be able to punch that out of the transmission where the linkage attaches or you can just cut the linkage off right there...
I choose the later,
a $5 hack saw, and 2 min of sawing later it was free. (BE SURE TO CUT THE LINKAGE AFTER THE COUPLER *as per the pic*, AND NOT THE PART ATTACHED TO THE TRANSMISSION)
I broke 2 punches and a screwdriver on it trying to get it out, it is a BITCH.
I've read that a bolt from your AC Compressor is a PERFECT fit for this pin, and makes it alot easier, although I'd recommend planning on it not being re-used after this.
Once the axles are out, the linkage is all dropped, and everything is disconnected, remove your radiator so it is out of the way when you are lifting and dropping your engines.
You can now chain up your engine hoist and get ready to rip that ****** out!
You are best off removing the mounts from both the car and the engine so they are all out of your way.
once all the mounts are off, rip it out!
Chapter 2:
Once its out,
Get your new one in!
(Be sure again, to remove the lower stabilizer brackets off the trans and engine before dropping in the motor, but be sure to LEAVE the top trans and top motor mount still attached. Also If you have an automatic engine, be sure to remove the bracket that 'supports' the intake manifold off the back block as it will block you from being able to put the T-bracket in later. *I'm still working on a few 'snafoo's with the automatic engine with manual trans*)
Drop it in, bolting the 2 top mounts in once you have them in place, once they are both in place, put the rest of the mounts back on (T bracket will have to be put on from underneath, I haven't figured out a better way to do this just yet, maybe it is possible to leave it on while dropping in the engine)
Once the motor is in place you can begin re-attaching all the vac/coolant lines, and you can simply plug the OBD2 wiring harness into the OBD1 shock-towers without any problem.
attach the fuel, and power/grounds, and your girl will be ready to fire up!
At this point, you can put the 1994-2000 Integra axles/midshaft into the car
After that is done, re-attach all your suspension bits, get your wheels back on, tighten up your axle nuts and punch them back down so they won't back off.
Lastly, attach all your new 94-00 Integra LS shift linkage to your car, and transmission, be aware that you need all new shifter bushings as well because NOTHING from the civic shifter is reusable on this swap minus the mounts under the passenger compartment.
so once everything is back together again, Drop in your PR4 or P75 ECU and fire her up!
In closing, to answer a few questions, the car started right up with my chipped P05 (Chipped with Vtec for a D16Y8 mini-me swap DEFINATLY not meant for this motor) so if you don't have your integra ECU yet, you can still make sure the motor will start with a spare OBD1 ECU.
Also there is no need for any Acura Integra suspension bits for this swap at all aside from the axles.
Hope you all liked the read, this swap was my FIRST swap ever, and I felt it was EXTREMELY easy, and took me maybe 12 hours total (the Bitch Pin consuming about 4 of those hours, and I had to mount my flywheel/clutch/pressure plate and attach my transmission to my motor as well as the fact that I've NEVER done a motor swap before in my life, or installed a clutch!!!!!!)
*edit* forgot to mention if you didn't see the pics, I did it outside on a gravel driveway in the snow, so 12 hours for a first time swap outside in the snow is haulin *** if you ask me.
This swap is a GREAT cheap alternative to the common B16 SIR2 swap as well as an EVEN cheaper alternative to GSR/ITR swaps. Yes it won't rev as high, but its a very grunty motor and LOVES boost, and again is MUCH cheaper than other swaps.
I've spent sub $750 on EVERYTHING to get the motor in this car and ready to roll, only things I have left to buy are an ECU, some bolts, and a Teggy fuel line from the fuel filter. (So another maybe $65)
Happy Swapping!
Got some more money shots, and only one CEL codes *no primary O2* cause I don't have the downpipe with the O2 ON the car right now, so:
BIG IMPORTANT NOTE:
I dropped in a B18B1, Plugged in an OBD1 PR4, and got only one CEL for O2 *which wasn't attached*
This PROVES that OBD2 engines are simply a 'plug in, drop in' swap for an OBD1 car if you use the OBD2 wiring harness, and OBD1 shock-tower wiring.
*I dumped the fart-can, in favor of something simple*
*My friend Triumphantly holding the dead fart can*
The new muff:
Its Alive!!!:
03-21-2008, 11:13 PM
#3
1.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 367
Re: 5th Gen 92-95 Civic CX B18B1 swap write-up!!!
Originally Posted by jagojon3
Nice writeup!
What's the CEL for? :P
What's the CEL for? :P
That and I also JUST started it (Hence the SRS light, and the tach being at 2K)
Thanks for the Compliment! Lots of write-ups on GSR's, and B16 swaps, but the B18 swaps seem to not have alota media on it.
04-10-2008, 12:25 PM
#6
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 0
Re: 5th Gen 92-95 Civic CX B18B1 swap write-up!!!
Nice writeup. I actually didn't think that obd2 wiring was the same as obd1, so it was restricting my engine search quite a bit. I assumed that b/c obd0 to obd1 was different, then obd1 to obd2 would be different also. But apparently its not. Thanks!
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