4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
#12
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
Originally Posted by SloS13
diesel trucks should rev higher to take advantage of their turbos. they would be unstoppable!
#13
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
i was always told that the bottom ends on the n/a models were pretty stout. In my opinion, DSM's are good cars if you are mechanically inclined enough and don't mind dumping lots of money in it to get it reliable enough to dd. It is amazing how much boost a stock bottom end can push and how easy it is to get a tsi into the 13.xx's. But i would say close to 50% of the people on here are not inclined enough to do in depth work on anything other than a honda. Don't get me wrong. Im not bashing hondas in anyway, shape, or form, Just stating that once you learn a honda, most people get the mind set that they are too easy and get nervous working on other make/model cars/truck. Gotta admit though that hondas are seriously fun/cheap cars. Im fixing to buy another one next month.
#15
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
My GVR4 has been running fine since I bought it back in November. Only needed to replace a blown radiator. Yeah the clutch slips over 14psi and the stock 14B was puffing some blue smoke but it's all original stuff with 179k on them and 15 years old. So it's too be expected on a turbo'd car and a DSM at that also so to say it was driven . I'm not complaining with my DSM. You can say all your crankwalk ---- but it's saying how many cable b-series trannies don't grind.
#16
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
The bottom ends are the same other than oil squirters and the pistons. Quite a few people prefer to start with a n/a block and crank for building. Hasn't been abused as much, lack of squirters makes building a stroker easier clearance wise.
#17
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
Originally Posted by dsmjunkie
Posted in response to people who need to learn their ---- or pay amechanic to call them a retard.
I'm reffrencing on 1st gen 4g63's, since the 2nd gen 7-bolt is a crankwalking piece of ----.
First off the whole point of a turbo is a shorter stroke(higher rev's), and the ability to keep compression ratios within safe fuel delivery constraints(dropped compression balancing increase in volume of air delivery). The turbo block has a different rod and crank set-(dropped compression-7.6:1 vs (9.2:1). The head bolts do not match- close but your stll fucked. No tap point for the knock sensor is present, along with coolant and oil return taps, are present on the n/a engine. The same oil and cooling problems are present in the n/a head- along with cams that are to mild for the increased fuel and air. You can try to bolt up a turbo exh. manifold to a n/a block with a 14 lb. turbine, and and advance the cams, but you'll probably eating 16 valves. You could drop comp. with a copper head gasket and run a 7lb. or smaller turbine, but the stock ecu won't keep up with the fuel demands, you'll have to run on open loop to defeat the mass air flow, and your exh. valves
will eventually burn- if you dont detonate to the point where your thrust bearings and wristpins take a big smelly ----. Get a turbo long block, and a control unit that can handle whatever boost levels you are running, or an ecu compatible with the car your engine came from. No offense, just learn your ---- before you start turnin' the wrench.
I'm reffrencing on 1st gen 4g63's, since the 2nd gen 7-bolt is a crankwalking piece of ----.
First off the whole point of a turbo is a shorter stroke(higher rev's), and the ability to keep compression ratios within safe fuel delivery constraints(dropped compression balancing increase in volume of air delivery). The turbo block has a different rod and crank set-(dropped compression-7.6:1 vs (9.2:1). The head bolts do not match- close but your stll fucked. No tap point for the knock sensor is present, along with coolant and oil return taps, are present on the n/a engine. The same oil and cooling problems are present in the n/a head- along with cams that are to mild for the increased fuel and air. You can try to bolt up a turbo exh. manifold to a n/a block with a 14 lb. turbine, and and advance the cams, but you'll probably eating 16 valves. You could drop comp. with a copper head gasket and run a 7lb. or smaller turbine, but the stock ecu won't keep up with the fuel demands, you'll have to run on open loop to defeat the mass air flow, and your exh. valves
will eventually burn- if you dont detonate to the point where your thrust bearings and wristpins take a big smelly ----. Get a turbo long block, and a control unit that can handle whatever boost levels you are running, or an ecu compatible with the car your engine came from. No offense, just learn your ---- before you start turnin' the wrench.
i really pissed myself about the part where he said you can run a copper headgasket to lower the 9.2:1 compression haha. Considering half the members on this board run 10.5:1 hondas with boost.
#18
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
Originally Posted by JDMFantasy2K
haha silly ****** DSM are for homos
i really pissed myself about the part where he said you can run a copper headgasket to lower the 9.2:1 compression haha. Considering half the members on this board run 10.5:1 hondas with boost.
i really pissed myself about the part where he said you can run a copper headgasket to lower the 9.2:1 compression haha. Considering half the members on this board run 10.5:1 hondas with boost.
#20
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
Originally Posted by d112crzy
what about dsmlink?
sorry, i dont know ---- about dsms. I heard some guys talking about it at the track once, lol.
sorry, i dont know ---- about dsms. I heard some guys talking about it at the track once, lol.
DSMlink is nice, but its not cheap like it is to tune a Honda. Its $565+ socketing + an EEPROM Ecu if you weren't lucky enough to have one stock.