4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
Thread Starter
0.0 BAR
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1
4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
Posted in response to people who need to learn their ---- or pay amechanic to call them a retard.
I'm reffrencing on 1st gen 4g63's, since the 2nd gen 7-bolt is a crankwalking piece of ----.
First off the whole point of a turbo is a shorter stroke(higher rev's), and the ability to keep compression ratios within safe fuel delivery constraints(dropped compression balancing increase in volume of air delivery). The turbo block has a different rod and crank set-(dropped compression-7.6:1 vs (9.2:1). The head bolts do not match- close but your stll fucked. No tap point for the knock sensor is present, along with coolant and oil return taps, are present on the n/a engine. The same oil and cooling problems are present in the n/a head- along with cams that are to mild for the increased fuel and air. You can try to bolt up a turbo exh. manifold to a n/a block with a 14 lb. turbine, and and advance the cams, but you'll probably eating 16 valves. You could drop comp. with a copper head gasket and run a 7lb. or smaller turbine, but the stock ecu won't keep up with the fuel demands, you'll have to run on open loop to defeat the mass air flow, and your exh. valves
will eventually burn- if you dont detonate to the point where your thrust bearings and wristpins take a big smelly ----. Get a turbo long block, and a control unit that can handle whatever boost levels you are running, or an ecu compatible with the car your engine came from. No offense, just learn your ---- before you start turnin' the wrench.
I'm reffrencing on 1st gen 4g63's, since the 2nd gen 7-bolt is a crankwalking piece of ----.
First off the whole point of a turbo is a shorter stroke(higher rev's), and the ability to keep compression ratios within safe fuel delivery constraints(dropped compression balancing increase in volume of air delivery). The turbo block has a different rod and crank set-(dropped compression-7.6:1 vs (9.2:1). The head bolts do not match- close but your stll fucked. No tap point for the knock sensor is present, along with coolant and oil return taps, are present on the n/a engine. The same oil and cooling problems are present in the n/a head- along with cams that are to mild for the increased fuel and air. You can try to bolt up a turbo exh. manifold to a n/a block with a 14 lb. turbine, and and advance the cams, but you'll probably eating 16 valves. You could drop comp. with a copper head gasket and run a 7lb. or smaller turbine, but the stock ecu won't keep up with the fuel demands, you'll have to run on open loop to defeat the mass air flow, and your exh. valves
will eventually burn- if you dont detonate to the point where your thrust bearings and wristpins take a big smelly ----. Get a turbo long block, and a control unit that can handle whatever boost levels you are running, or an ecu compatible with the car your engine came from. No offense, just learn your ---- before you start turnin' the wrench.
I don't don't even bother with people who "think" they know ---- but clearly are clueless. Their stupidity will shine through and pwn them in the longrun.
3.0 BAR
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,889
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
Originally Posted by dsmjunkie
Posted in response to people who need to learn their ---- or pay amechanic to call them a retard.
I'm reffrencing on 1st gen 4g63's, since the 2nd gen 7-bolt is a crankwalking piece of ----.
First off the whole point of a turbo is a shorter stroke(higher rev's), and the ability to keep compression ratios within safe fuel delivery constraints(dropped compression balancing increase in volume of air delivery). The turbo block has a different rod and crank set-(dropped compression-7.6:1 vs (9.2:1). The head bolts do not match- close but your stll fucked. No tap point for the knock sensor is present, along with coolant and oil return taps, are present on the n/a engine. The same oil and cooling problems are present in the n/a head- along with cams that are to mild for the increased fuel and air. You can try to bolt up a turbo exh. manifold to a n/a block with a 14 lb. turbine, and and advance the cams, but you'll probably eating 16 valves. You could drop comp. with a copper head gasket and run a 7lb. or smaller turbine, but the stock ecu won't keep up with the fuel demands, you'll have to run on open loop to defeat the mass air flow, and your exh. valves
will eventually burn- if you dont detonate to the point where your thrust bearings and wristpins take a big smelly ----. Get a turbo long block, and a control unit that can handle whatever boost levels you are running, or an ecu compatible with the car your engine came from. No offense, just learn your ---- before you start turnin' the wrench.
I'm reffrencing on 1st gen 4g63's, since the 2nd gen 7-bolt is a crankwalking piece of ----.
First off the whole point of a turbo is a shorter stroke(higher rev's), and the ability to keep compression ratios within safe fuel delivery constraints(dropped compression balancing increase in volume of air delivery). The turbo block has a different rod and crank set-(dropped compression-7.6:1 vs (9.2:1). The head bolts do not match- close but your stll fucked. No tap point for the knock sensor is present, along with coolant and oil return taps, are present on the n/a engine. The same oil and cooling problems are present in the n/a head- along with cams that are to mild for the increased fuel and air. You can try to bolt up a turbo exh. manifold to a n/a block with a 14 lb. turbine, and and advance the cams, but you'll probably eating 16 valves. You could drop comp. with a copper head gasket and run a 7lb. or smaller turbine, but the stock ecu won't keep up with the fuel demands, you'll have to run on open loop to defeat the mass air flow, and your exh. valves
will eventually burn- if you dont detonate to the point where your thrust bearings and wristpins take a big smelly ----. Get a turbo long block, and a control unit that can handle whatever boost levels you are running, or an ecu compatible with the car your engine came from. No offense, just learn your ---- before you start turnin' the wrench.
you need to die
3.0 BAR
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,664
From: NE-PA
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
And this is posted in response to? 
IMO all 4g63's are piles of junk, their only redeeming factor being that they can still manage a way to produce some semblence of power with those tiny heat pumps attached to them. Their ability to take all that forced hot air and do something with it speaks well of the iron block and stupid-low compression.
IMO all 4g63's are piles of junk, their only redeeming factor being that they can still manage a way to produce some semblence of power with those tiny heat pumps attached to them. Their ability to take all that forced hot air and do something with it speaks well of the iron block and stupid-low compression.
3.0 BAR
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,664
From: NE-PA
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
I was actually talking to a dsm owner today at work...this kinda reminded me of it. He was showing me some pictures of his and his friend's dsm's being towed back to his garage...told him "that's strage, that's how I usually see most dsm's driving down the road". He said "---- you, that's not funny dude". LOL 
1.0 BAR
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 311
Re: 4g63 and 4g63t : big difference!!!
Originally Posted by dsmjunkie
Posted in response to people who need to learn their ---- or pay amechanic to call them a retard.
I'm reffrencing on 1st gen 4g63's, since the 2nd gen 7-bolt is a crankwalking piece of ----.
First off the whole point of a turbo is a shorter stroke(higher rev's), and the ability to keep compression ratios within safe fuel delivery constraints(dropped compression balancing increase in volume of air delivery). The turbo block has a different rod and crank set-(dropped compression-7.6:1 vs (9.2:1). The head bolts do not match- close but your stll fucked. No tap point for the knock sensor is present, along with coolant and oil return taps, are present on the n/a engine. The same oil and cooling problems are present in the n/a head- along with cams that are to mild for the increased fuel and air. You can try to bolt up a turbo exh. manifold to a n/a block with a 14 lb. turbine, and and advance the cams, but you'll probably eating 16 valves. You could drop comp. with a copper head gasket and run a 7lb. or smaller turbine, but the stock ecu won't keep up with the fuel demands, you'll have to run on open loop to defeat the mass air flow, and your exh. valves
will eventually burn- if you dont detonate to the point where your thrust bearings and wristpins take a big smelly ----. Get a turbo long block, and a control unit that can handle whatever boost levels you are running, or an ecu compatible with the car your engine came from. No offense, just learn your ---- before you start turnin' the wrench.
I'm reffrencing on 1st gen 4g63's, since the 2nd gen 7-bolt is a crankwalking piece of ----.
First off the whole point of a turbo is a shorter stroke(higher rev's), and the ability to keep compression ratios within safe fuel delivery constraints(dropped compression balancing increase in volume of air delivery). The turbo block has a different rod and crank set-(dropped compression-7.6:1 vs (9.2:1). The head bolts do not match- close but your stll fucked. No tap point for the knock sensor is present, along with coolant and oil return taps, are present on the n/a engine. The same oil and cooling problems are present in the n/a head- along with cams that are to mild for the increased fuel and air. You can try to bolt up a turbo exh. manifold to a n/a block with a 14 lb. turbine, and and advance the cams, but you'll probably eating 16 valves. You could drop comp. with a copper head gasket and run a 7lb. or smaller turbine, but the stock ecu won't keep up with the fuel demands, you'll have to run on open loop to defeat the mass air flow, and your exh. valves
will eventually burn- if you dont detonate to the point where your thrust bearings and wristpins take a big smelly ----. Get a turbo long block, and a control unit that can handle whatever boost levels you are running, or an ecu compatible with the car your engine came from. No offense, just learn your ---- before you start turnin' the wrench.
Haha I don't know how many more things you could have gotten wrong or fucked up. End yourself. Don't touch a DSM, most of them break often enough on their own without a moron like you touching them.
