2genCRX

For a while I've wanted to upgrade my brake system by changing over to all disk's brakes. As long as I can remember, all high performance cars have come equiped with all disk brake system. Disk brake out perform drums any day, plus they look sweet with a nice set of rims and tires. Well lets begin shall we, below is a list of what you need for this swap, including tools and parts.

*keep in mind that if you have those 13" Honda OEM rims will not clear the brake caliper assembly, therfore will not work. You need at least 14" SI rims*

TOOLS
10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm sockets as well as wrenches
3/8 drive wrachet
jack stands and jack
that's all I used, that I can remember.

BRAKES from a 90-93 Integra non ABS

Heres the swap.

First start by removing your seats and the small tool box in the back. Then remove the plastic underneath the e-brake. Remove the e-brake assembly until you only have the cables visible.

Pull the carpet and carefully remove the cable gromets with a flat head screw driver.

Now that your cables are free up front, jack the car up, support it with some jack stands. Remove the tires, notice the how rusted my drums were, I should have painted them.

Now its time to remove the rest of the e-brake cable supports, two per a cable total of four. You'll have to crawl underneath the car, locate them and use a 12mm socket to remove them, You'll have to use a 12mm wrench on the ones closer to the gas tank.


Now the cables are free to be pulled out completely, once they are out, its time to remove the trailing arm completely. You should remove it in this order, to avoid it falling on you when done.
First disconect the brake fluid line, be very carefull, as the can strip easily, I recomend spraying them down with a penetrating lubricant (pb blaster) first. Then you'll have to remove a small flat key hoding the brake line up still, use a flat head and knock it out slowly.



I dont have a pic of the next bolt removal, but you should figure out whats next. Just make shure you dont remove the one thats in red on the illustration above. Finally these are the last two bolts to be removed, then simply tap the tralinng arm assembly out of its place, pice of cake.

Heres a comparisson pic, notice how much bigger the disk surface is than the drum.

Why 13" rims dont work, the 14" barely clear.

Instalation is the oppasite of removal, except that now you have some extra cable slack. You will still use the CRX cable support mounting points with the Teg cables. As for the extra slack, which isn't much, its up to you how you want to hold them in place. At the moment I'm using zip ties until I get something else worked out. Use the jack to raise the brakes in place, if your working alone.

Assuming you all ready routed the Teg cables into the cabin.

start re-assembling the e-brake and all of its components. *be carefull how you put it back together, at first I had put them on backwards, heres what I mean* Those small metal tabs sticking out of the sides, should be at the front not the rear.

Now is a good time to change your brakes if you need to, I used new rotors when I did this swap, you may want to do the same.

Dont cover the e-brake just yet, you still need to bleed the brake system for air. I don' have this procedure documented, so hopefully you all ready know how. After a good bleeding, adjust the sensetivity of your e-brake engagement and put everything back together, your done.

Check ou the JDM armrest, minus the armrest :P


RESULTS
I'll admit that at first I experianced really poor results. My freak'n brake pedal went through the floor before my brakes grabed. So I decided to go in search of a Teg Prop Valve (4040) I didn't think I would need this but oh well. If you experiance the same, you may just have air in your brake line, bleed them and then bleed them again. I just wanted to go the extra mile with the Prop Valve, and I would highly recomend you do the same. After installing the new Prop Valve and after three more bleedings my brakes felt freak'n awsome. Although I didn't swap out My Master Cylinder, they still feel great, which leads me belive you dont need it. You might consider it if you go to a larger disk size though. Well I'm very pleased with the results, the brakes feel very responsive and they look good too, that is after take that blue paint off, my car is red

Here's a pic of the Prop Valve for those who may otherwise not know what it looks like.

88crxSi

just awsome!

great work man!

89dxhunchback

Nice write-up. Does the teg front brakes clear the stock 14'' Si wheels ?

2genCRX

I'm not sure but I think they do, after all some Teg's (RS,LS) came with 14" stock rims, except the GSR wich I belive came with 15's.

88crxSi

i dont think you can use the teg front brakes because of the knuckle being longer. but a 90-91 civic 4dr EX has same rotor / caliper but w/ crx knuckle lengths

89dxhunchback

Nah, the honda-tech boys are all over this, you use all the 90-93 teg stuff with the crx-civic A-arms.

Its been debated, but like 5-10 people have the teg front brakes without any of the romoered camber problems.

88crxSi

good to know

audioguru76

yes, they will. a buddy of mine sold his 90 teg with 89 sawblades on it. he didn't want to give up his nice wheels and all we could find was the sawblades.

ben

toupe95

I've done the teg front brake swap myself and by sight, you could not see any extreme camber. The back on the other hand with the h&r race

BTW, on the front brakes with crx si rims, the caliper JUST clears the wheels. Looks wicked though

turbohf

i put the EX brakes on my HF....the calipers didnt want to clear the 89 Si rims i have. so i took a file and hit the casting marks and its been fine sence...

i also have a set of DA rear disc and 40/40 that i will be putting on soon along with some SS braided line all around...and i have a 15/16" MC on there now, made the braking feel sooo much better...