HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum - 2gen/4gen Civic CRX brake upgrade

For a while I've wanted to upgrade my brake system by changing over to all disk's brakes. As long as I can remember, all high performance cars have come equiped with all disk brake system. Disk brake out perform drums any day, plus they look sweet with a nice set of rims and tires. Well lets begin shall we, below is a list of what you need for this swap, including tools and parts.

*keep in mind that if you have those 13" Honda OEM rims will not clear the brake caliper assembly, therfore will not work. You need at least 14" SI rims*

TOOLS
10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm sockets as well as wrenches
3/8 drive wrachet
jack stands and jack
that's all I used, that I can remember.

BRAKES from a 90-93 Integra non ABS
http://www.civicland.com/diy/diyimag...armdiagram.jpg
Heres the swap.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/the%20swap.JPG
First start by removing your seats and the small tool box in the back. Then remove the plastic underneath the e-brake. Remove the e-brake assembly until you only have the cables visible.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/crx%20cables.JPG
Pull the carpet and carefully remove the cable gromets with a flat head screw driver.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/cr...e%20gromet.JPG
Now that your cables are free up front, jack the car up, support it with some jack stands. Remove the tires, notice the how rusted my drums were, I should have painted them.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/drum%20pic.JPG
Now its time to remove the rest of the e-brake cable supports, two per a cable total of four. You'll have to crawl underneath the car, locate them and use a 12mm socket to remove them, You'll have to use a 12mm wrench on the ones closer to the gas tank.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/cable%20support4.JPG
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/cr...20support2.JPG
Now the cables are free to be pulled out completely, once they are out, its time to remove the trailing arm completely. You should remove it in this order, to avoid it falling on you when done.
First disconect the brake fluid line, be very carefull, as the can strip easily, I recomend spraying them down with a penetrating lubricant (pb blaster) first. Then you'll have to remove a small flat key hoding the brake line up still, use a flat head and knock it out slowly.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/br...%20removal.JPG
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/sh...%20support.JPG
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/shock%20mount.JPG
I dont have a pic of the next bolt removal, but you should figure out whats next. Just make shure you dont remove the one thats in red on the illustration above. Finally these are the last two bolts to be removed, then simply tap the tralinng arm assembly out of its place, pice of cake.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/in...eel%20well.JPG
Heres a comparisson pic, notice how much bigger the disk surface is than the drum.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/comparison.JPG
Why 13" rims dont work, the 14" barely clear.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/test%20fit.JPG
Instalation is the oppasite of removal, except that now you have some extra cable slack. You will still use the CRX cable support mounting points with the Teg cables. As for the extra slack, which isn't much, its up to you how you want to hold them in place. At the moment I'm using zip ties until I get something else worked out. Use the jack to raise the brakes in place, if your working alone.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/ja...g%20brakes.JPG
Assuming you all ready routed the Teg cables into the cabin.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/teg%20cables%20in.JPG
start re-assembling the e-brake and all of its components. *be carefull how you put it back together, at first I had put them on backwards, heres what I mean* Those small metal tabs sticking out of the sides, should be at the front not the rear.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/te...es%20right.JPG
Now is a good time to change your brakes if you need to, I used new rotors when I did this swap, you may want to do the same.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/new%20disks.JPG
Dont cover the e-brake just yet, you still need to bleed the brake system for air. I don' have this procedure documented, so hopefully you all ready know how. After a good bleeding, adjust the sensetivity of your e-brake engagement and put everything back together, your done.
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/done%20mounted.JPG
Check ou the JDM armrest, minus the armrest :P
http://www.newbieforces.com/files/jdm%20armrest.JPG

RESULTS
I'll admit that at first I experianced really poor results. My freak'n brake pedal went through the floor before my brakes grabed. So I decided to go in search of a Teg Prop Valve (4040) I didn't think I would need this but oh well. If you experiance the same, you may just have air in your brake line, bleed them and then bleed them again. I just wanted to go the extra mile with the Prop Valve, and I would highly recomend you do the same. After installing the new Prop Valve and after three more bleedings my brakes felt freak'n awsome. Although I didn't swap out My Master Cylinder, they still feel great, which leads me belive you dont need it. You might consider it if you go to a larger disk size though. Well I'm very pleased with the results, the brakes feel very responsive and they look good too, that is after take that blue paint off, my car is red 8)

Here's a pic of the Prop Valve for those who may otherwise not know what it looks like.
http://www.civicland.com/diy/diyimag...apropvalve.jpg