***UPDATE*** Overheating... Serious Delima....
#15
Re:Overheating... Serious Delima....
Originally Posted by bambooseven
Originally Posted by Travis
maybe its your apex seals
yea, that is prolly it, that 13b has maddddd powa Y0
#16
Re:Overheating... Serious Delima....
Originally Posted by crx304
Originally Posted by bambooseven
Originally Posted by Travis
maybe its your apex seals
yea, that is prolly it, that 13b has maddddd powa Y0
#17
Re:Overheating... Serious Delima....
Simple, blown head gasket. You are running to much timing and it must of detonated enough to damage the head gasket. Yes its metal, but I have blown several metal head gaskets, and sometimes it may seem like the car is running fine, but after a few panty ripper runs it will overheat. The combustion chamber is leaking into the cooling system (probably a very small amount) and is pressurizing it, creating air pockets. Obviously when you boost its going to happen more than just sitting there idling. Thats also why you probably cannot dectect it when just pressurizing the system, it has to have a load on it.
As far as this "d-series head lifting issue" that people think that is happening, I think its BS. The stock head bolts are more than adaqute. When boosting 15psi or more on any honda block I'd recommend some type of sleeve support so they dont shift under heavy loads. With out any cylinder wall support the sleeves can shift and cause blown head gaskets over and over again.
How many gaskets are you using in the MLS package?
Jeff
As far as this "d-series head lifting issue" that people think that is happening, I think its BS. The stock head bolts are more than adaqute. When boosting 15psi or more on any honda block I'd recommend some type of sleeve support so they dont shift under heavy loads. With out any cylinder wall support the sleeves can shift and cause blown head gaskets over and over again.
How many gaskets are you using in the MLS package?
Jeff
#19
Re:Overheating... Serious Delima....
problem has been found... aparently i was running too much timing and i did lift the head aroung #1 cylinder.
tonite i pulled the valve cover and checked to see if the stud nuts loosened up on me, and found that the 4 studs that were around the #1 cyl (the plug that was wet) were stripped and couldn't be retightened (two of which were completly finger loose)
so i just bought another a6 motor and gonna fill the block, get the machine work done again, and put all of the internals into that and try again.
thanks guy's for your insight! (foreal!!!)
and travis... i wasn't pissed, i can take a joke as well as the next guy. that's y i responded like that. we coo!
late
mike
tonite i pulled the valve cover and checked to see if the stud nuts loosened up on me, and found that the 4 studs that were around the #1 cyl (the plug that was wet) were stripped and couldn't be retightened (two of which were completly finger loose)
so i just bought another a6 motor and gonna fill the block, get the machine work done again, and put all of the internals into that and try again.
thanks guy's for your insight! (foreal!!!)
and travis... i wasn't pissed, i can take a joke as well as the next guy. that's y i responded like that. we coo!
late
mike
#20
Re:Overheating... Serious Delima....
if the studs were loose you didnt tighten them. I dont care what arp says about "hand tightening" the studs in the block, I always put a set of vise grips on them and give it a few turns. Always recheck your torque of the nuts after a few hundred miles too, to make sure they are nice and tight. I do 4 sequences when doing head bolts. 20 - 40 (then loosen them all the way) then 30 and final torque.. sometimes 60, sometimes higher.