my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
05-13-2006, 01:14 AM
#32
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,933
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
ya im putting crowers in my b16 also and the clearances didnt like the greens.
I believe the crowers are modeled after the #1 rod.
So now im using 3 yellow sets and 1 pink.
I believe the crowers are modeled after the #1 rod.
So now im using 3 yellow sets and 1 pink.
05-13-2006, 01:17 AM
#33
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,183
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
Originally Posted by Ravage70
ya im putting crowers in my b16 also and the clearances didnt like the greens.
I believe the crowers are modeled after the #1 rod.
So now im using 3 yellow sets and 1 pink.
I believe the crowers are modeled after the #1 rod.
So now im using 3 yellow sets and 1 pink.
05-17-2006, 01:02 AM
#35
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,183
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
checked all the clearances again with the new honda pink bearings.everything is good. lube that bitch up lets go!
roll it over a couple times and everything feels good.
on to o-ringing.
-heat the copper wire for 3 minutes @ 250 degrees this process is called annealing. this will make it more pliable and easier to manipulate.
-start at the very center of the intake side feed the wire into the channnel by hand
-then gently tap the wire into the channel with the bottom of a hammer, i opted for my bling bling snap on hammer because of the rubber handle so it won't hurt the wire.
-once you get it all into the channel and back around you need to snip it very close so the two ends touch but don't overlap. it has to be perfect and seemless. you will catch on after 2-3 tries. there MUST BE NO GAP OR OVERLAP of the wire. end cutters work best to cut the wire
-repeat for the other cylinders in the same order. your final product should look like this
roll it over a couple times and everything feels good.
on to o-ringing.
-heat the copper wire for 3 minutes @ 250 degrees this process is called annealing. this will make it more pliable and easier to manipulate.
-start at the very center of the intake side feed the wire into the channnel by hand
-then gently tap the wire into the channel with the bottom of a hammer, i opted for my bling bling snap on hammer because of the rubber handle so it won't hurt the wire.
-once you get it all into the channel and back around you need to snip it very close so the two ends touch but don't overlap. it has to be perfect and seemless. you will catch on after 2-3 tries. there MUST BE NO GAP OR OVERLAP of the wire. end cutters work best to cut the wire
-repeat for the other cylinders in the same order. your final product should look like this
05-17-2006, 09:34 AM
#38
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,183
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
i hope to have everything complete by mid june. im playing hurry up and wait with the body shop so........... once i get my car back i can part the motor and swap the head on to here, i've already ported the head on the old motor and my arp head studs are in the old motor too so i'll swap those over. still have to get a water pump, t belt, some misc. orings and ----.
05-21-2006, 11:56 AM
#39
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,183
Re: my setup and build pics,will be update as i progress
one new pic. i think im going to jb weld a -10 an bung where the crankase ventilation hole is and run it to a catch can and the other bung on the catch can to the exh. slash cut. anyways still waiting on parts.
