plymouth

Put something in front of the turbo because turbos dont like rocks.

Toysrme

Im not hating... Im telling you the bottom line:
If it's in the enigne bay it's not a remote mount
It doesn't spool until almost 3000rpm because you have a piece of ---- *** i4 2.5L engine and a poor feed. cgts combining the worst of everything. (few power pulses, and a bad power curve)

AFA increasing the spool rate. Adjust your wastegate to not creep open as much as possible. Add a boost can (sealed container) on the wastegate actuator line to slow it down somewhat.
Tear your turbine entry / feed pipes out replacing it with pipe of a decreased diameter and length.








Jag FTW. Catch cans are for stupid lazy bitches that can't solve blow-by problems. A catch can is only used by newbies to MASK a blow-by problem. They don't solve it. The correct way would be a PCV valve that refferances both intake manifold vacuum and pre-compressor vacuum that has a 1-way check valve installed on the intake manifold source to lock boost out.
That's the correct way to ventilate a crankcase with forced induction.

wckdyj

No offense taken. Trust me when I say that I know the 2.5L is a shitty motor and that its not going to make a great deal of power.

As far as the remote mount...Only reason I called it that was because its not mounted directly on the exhaust manifold. But I understand what you are referring to.

Let me see if this is what you are talking about with reference to the crankcase setup. You are saying that I have a GOOD pcv valve that is hooked to intake manifold with a check valve inline that keeps the boost out. Now I have a second pcv mounted to the crankcase that runs its vacuum hose to the intake of the turbo, which if I am thinking about this correctly, will always be pulling a vacuum out of the crankcase. Let me know if I am not thinking about this correctly.

Any suggestions on a good pcv valve? What about check valves? I checked a local aquarium shop but all they had were very and would not work. Any suggestions on where to find them?

thanks for the help.

EG-prince

You really don't need to do all that w/ the pcv setup. Like said above, run a breather filter off the valve cover and a hose to the ground from the crank case breather box. Re-plumbing it with all the check valves n ---- was done from the factory as an emissions issue because they didn't want you spewing oil vapors into the air all the time, where as you probably don't car anymore. I dunno what state you are in or what the laws are, but if you can remove your cat without legal problems, you definitely should. Its a huge restriction in a turbo application. You will see wayyyy better boost response with a decent 2.5in to 3in exhaust w/no cat, or even better with just a downpipe off the turbo.

wckdyj

to be completely honest, I would rather keep some kind of emissions in place, and also not have oil spewing all over. If i need to run lines all over to set it up correctly, than I will. I am not trying to create further issues down the road.

Again, all the help and comments are appreciated.

Also, on a side note about the exhaust, it is 2.5 down pipe to a seriously choked cat and muffler. I will be removing everything after the DP to see what kind of response I can get out of the turbo.

Toysrme

One PCV valve that is T'd to the manifold, and pre-turbo intake. On the line to the manifold, install a check valve so boost can not pass through the line, to the pcv valve, and into the crankcase.

Another trick is where you place the PCV or breather valve, cover that hole on the inside with a windage plate that is stood off of it 3/8 to 1/2 and inch. This keeps oil from being directly slung at the hole, which coincidently is a major reason many older OHV domestic engines burn so much oil. Their pushrods literally sling oil right out the engine via breather holes.

wckdyj

OK, time for an update. still working on getting the pics. Will tomorrow for sure.

Got the valve cover buttoned up and plumbed with one line into the intake of the turbo and the other with a check valved pcv. Went for a short drive around the neighborhood and still some problems arise.

Took the air filter off and put a fine screen over the intake of the turbo and took the rest of the exhaust off and installed a 2.5" straight pipe with a turn down. Starts to spool much faster and I no longer have a leak at the valve cover. But.....

While it will come out of vacuum and hit 0 psi I cant seem to get it much higher than that (will a smaller .42 garrett compressor rather than the shitty ebay .50 compressor that I swapped on help at all?). If I lay into the throttle I seem to lose all power. It almost seems to be backfiring. If I give it gas slowly it will drive fine but with a good romping on the gas pedal it seems to cut out. So what I am thinking is that I am either losing fuel or air. Doesn't seem likely that I am losing air. But I also don't have any sounds of detonation either. I am working on getting a wide band to get rid of the A/F gauge, but it still doesn't make any sense to me that I am not building more boost under load.

As far as the losing power, could I be too rich? Sure smells like it.

Any help or suggestions?

Thanks

Chris

BigBird

I would say rich. Have you checked the charge piping for leaks?. Is the wastegate opening to early or creeping hard?

wckdyj

Cant really say about the wastegate. Its a weird VW/Audi Garrett internal with no actuator arm. Cant seem to find any info on it. I dont think the charge piping has as leaks, as the BOV seems to be releasing a good amount of pressure.

Took it for another ride, and the A/F gauge is showing lean under any heavy throttle, but how accurate can that thing be? I mean this thing smells rich. My clothes reek of unburnt fuel. I have not pulled the plugs yet to look at them, but I will tomorrow. I was going to swap in colder plugs, but cant seem to find them anywhere.

Thanks, and keep the suggestions coming.

Chris