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Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by sikcrx89
thats cool. what its starting to sound like is that regardless whoever does the install its going to be an extra cost because nobody tells you it needs to be done and they dont do it with your package.
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...p_civic_hatch/ http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=464 an excerpt: " Setting up the H22 on the press involves securing it to a flat slab of billet to keep it square. The billet is attached where the main bearing caps mount underneath the block, which is coincidentally how each block is secured in the various CNC machines at GE. |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by bigdaddyvtec
Here are the articles I was talking about regarding GEs process:
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...p_civic_hatch/ http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=464 an excerpt: " Setting up the H22 on the press involves securing it to a flat slab of billet to keep it square. The billet is attached where the main bearing caps mount underneath the block, which is coincidentally how each block is secured in the various CNC machines at GE. |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
well i hope they improved their "billet" because none of the H22 i had GE sleeve for me came back straight. Some of them, the crank would simply not go in, in the best of cases, it was jamming when aplying torque to the main caps.
They admitted that distortion of the block was normal and that the crank line bore was absolutely needed. Things might have changed since. That was back when i was talking to TED TIAGA, who's now dead :X. despite that problem, I have to say, once installed and running, a GE block is pretty strong. The latest one I got has the copper wire option. Benson's kind of bitching at it but i think it's a nice feature for a good seal. |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by BLAAST
well i hope they improved their "billet" because none of the H22 i had GE sleeve for me came back straight. Some of them, the crank would simply not go in, in the best of cases, it was jamming when aplying torque to the main caps.
They admitted that distortion of the block was normal and that the crank line bore was absolutely needed. Things might have changed since. That was back when i was talking to TED TIAGA, who's now dead :X. despite that problem, I have to say, once installed and running, a GE block is pretty strong. The latest one I got has the copper wire option. Benson's kind of bitching at it but i think it's a nice feature for a good seal. so whats does it usually cost for GE to do the sleeving and then a round about for line boring? |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
I think this might be a problem with H22 blocks. I've seen a lot of redneck Johnny Bighammer style sleeve installs, and the B's and D's keep ticking after maybe sinking a sleeve once or twice.
The one we had sleeved locally came back as silly putty. It's been align bored, no oil pump gear conflict, and it just puts wierd sideload wear marks in two precise spots on #2 and #3 main bearings. Runs awesome NA, runs awesome low boost, the first time you hit over 6 psi it presses you back in the seat like the hand of god, 50 miles later it's dead with VTEC screen filled with bearing material and oil pressure gauge acting flaky. |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by sikcrx89
so whats does it usually cost for GE to do the sleeving and then a round about for line boring? Got mine done here... Machine work will be done locally by DG machine in Auburn. |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
I think this might be a problem with H22 blocks. I've seen a lot of redneck Johnny Bighammer style sleeve installs, and the B's and D's keep ticking after maybe sinking a sleeve once or twice.
The one we had sleeved locally came back as silly putty. It's been align bored, no oil pump gear conflict, and it just puts wierd sideload wear marks in two precise spots on #2 and #3 main bearings. Runs awesome NA, runs awesome low boost, the first time you hit over 6 psi it presses you back in the seat like the hand of god, 50 miles later it's dead with VTEC screen filled with bearing material and oil pressure gauge acting flaky. |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by bigdaddyvtec
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=636369
Got mine done here... Machine work will be done locally by DG machine in Auburn. |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Yeah, i'll second that. I'm sure it's a H22 problem. I am not an engine guru but I am sure there's MUCH more machining involved to de-sleeve a H22 than a B series.
with Golden eagle, last time I did it, my cost for sleeving a h22a4 was 750$ ish. but I had them sleeve quite a few engines in the past so I'm sure there's some kind of a volume discount there.. Crank line bore: I have a local shop doing it for 150$ but that was THE WRONG WAY. however i don't see why it would be any more expensive the right way, except of course, if oversized crank bearings are more expensive. |
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by BLAAST
Yeah, i'll second that. I'm sure it's a H22 problem. I am not an engine guru but I am sure there's MUCH more machining involved to de-sleeve a H22 than a B series.
with Golden eagle, last time I did it, my cost for sleeving a h22a4 was 750$ ish. but I had them sleeve quite a few engines in the past so I'm sure there's some kind of a volume discount there.. Crank line bore: I have a local shop doing it for 150$ but that was THE WRONG WAY. however i don't see why it would be any more expensive the right way, except of course, if oversized crank bearings are more expensive. Hey blast: Im wondering; was this a CLOSED deck h22.... for some reason im thinking it may have been... Just wondering.... |
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