what sleeves to go with!!!
11-12-2006, 10:22 PM
#1
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,015
what sleeves to go with!!!
well i am having trouble deciding what sleeves to get when i build my zc. i know of two reputable company's DARTON and GOLDEN EAGLE.now i know that GE says there godzilla sleeves are guaranteed to 60 psi boost,but darton has been around for a long time so its kind of a toss up who to go with i dont know how many of you have experiance with either company since most guys are budget builders but when i do it i want to do it once and not worry. i know liam on thezcr has used GE's and had alot of good to say about them considering before his new set-up now he made 378 whp on them and held for a long time before he just did his other build for 500+ hp. not sure if he is still using them but i cant see why he wouldnt. any have any opinions on who to go with and know of a reptuable person to install them with out ------- it up in the VA,DC,PA area.
11-13-2006, 06:46 AM
#5
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,015
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by turbohf
Darton accually makes lots of the accual sleeves that most companies use when sleeving motors... 
JUST DO IT!!!
11-13-2006, 08:50 AM
#6
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 877
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
THe biggest difference between the two is that you can have darton sleeves shipped to you as a kit and you find a local machine shop to install them. The result depends on how good this shop works and is usually not warrantied.
With GE, they peform the job and it's warrantied. i used their warranty once...
The sleeves unfortunately leaked and contaminated the oil with prestone resulting in engine failure. They paid for back and forth shipping and re did the job under warranty.
Actually i am the one customer after which they started to include a sheet of paper with each block, notifying you to pour some BAR'S LEAK in your prestone to cure any leak.... i would give a bottle away with each job if it's really needed to make it work good!
One thing GE still doesn't tell you and I think this is VERY unfair, is that they send your block back all crooked and in order to have the crank spin free again, you need to have a CRANK LINE BORE performed on it to make it straight again. They do offer that service, but it's an EXTRA, that's probably because they don'T want to scare people away that they don't tell you about it but i assume most people find about it the hard way, when the realize that the crank ii jammed once tightened in the block!!
..and that infamous crank line bore operation will cost 200-300$ in a local machine shop and beware of the way they perform that very critical job. There's two techniques around... one of them greatly affects a honda engine's reliability.
here's my GE block it works good, but it,s been crank line bored the wrong way. I found out about the two techniques too late...
With GE, they peform the job and it's warrantied. i used their warranty once...
The sleeves unfortunately leaked and contaminated the oil with prestone resulting in engine failure. They paid for back and forth shipping and re did the job under warranty.
Actually i am the one customer after which they started to include a sheet of paper with each block, notifying you to pour some BAR'S LEAK in your prestone to cure any leak.... i would give a bottle away with each job if it's really needed to make it work good!
One thing GE still doesn't tell you and I think this is VERY unfair, is that they send your block back all crooked and in order to have the crank spin free again, you need to have a CRANK LINE BORE performed on it to make it straight again. They do offer that service, but it's an EXTRA, that's probably because they don'T want to scare people away that they don't tell you about it but i assume most people find about it the hard way, when the realize that the crank ii jammed once tightened in the block!!
..and that infamous crank line bore operation will cost 200-300$ in a local machine shop and beware of the way they perform that very critical job. There's two techniques around... one of them greatly affects a honda engine's reliability.
here's my GE block it works good, but it,s been crank line bored the wrong way. I found out about the two techniques too late...
11-13-2006, 12:18 PM
#7
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by BLAAST
..and that infamous crank line bore operation will cost 200-300$ in a local machine shop and beware of the way they perform that very critical job. There's two techniques around... one of them greatly affects a honda engine's reliability.
here's my GE block it works good, but it,s been crank line bored the wrong way. I found out about the two techniques too late...
here's my GE block it works good, but it,s been crank line bored the wrong way. I found out about the two techniques too late...
11-13-2006, 02:07 PM
#8
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,631
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Details please?
X2....
my H22 block is down there right now (care of camp 1320). id rather write off the block and buy another than pay 931 dollars for a ------- paperweight... SHitty thing is that that is all im waiting on to put this ****** together....
Any add. info would be greatly appreciated... Im supposed to paypal them cash soon so they can ship it back. I called Golden Eagle to make sure that they dindt need the main caps and girdle (1320 told me they didnt)... and they told me that they have a plate that they use during the install that deems shipping the mains unesecarry... So i ASSUME that i shouldnt need to line bore in this case, or am i wrong
?Thx for any info....
Spike
11-13-2006, 10:14 PM
#10
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,631
Re: what sleeves to go with!!!
Originally Posted by sikcrx89
fill us in blaast
They assuered me that they actually bolt the main saddles to a billet block while sleeving/AND ANY MACHINING OF thEIR BLOcks... and insist and that this is NO LONGER an issue... I was really adimate about not wanting to have to drive to so cal to throw the ------- thing through their window if they lied to me (politely), but they insisted that a line bore would not be neccessary... i guess for a time they didnt bolt them to the billet slab, and they had theswe issues. Supposedly fixed now..... Theres actually a really good writeup about it i dug up today ill try anfd remember to post the link tomorrow.... Its a very comprehensive illustrated depiction of their entire sleeving process/procedure... start to finish.... The link and the little talk with GE and 1320 maDE ME FEEL MUCH MUCH BETTER!!!
---- i need a new keyboard... and bump for more info anyways regarding any other experiences....
