turbo dave

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-...mZ230189684987


i think im going to run it on my f22/h22 hybrid...

what do you guys think

am i retarded or should i?

turbo dave

i looked up some specs on it, seems like a good turbo

http://209.85.165.104/search?q=cache...ient=firefox-a

xternal

Get those internals checked out first if you're really keen on it , no point in waisting cash on something thats fucked :P

BLAAST

I know Saul goldfarb, He is a good seller on ebay.

It's important to consider however that he sells used turbo cores removed by OTHER PEOPLE from all kinds of dead vehicles.
None of these turbos should be used as is without prior remanufacturing.

turbo dave

hmm i understand they are cores, but from the description (and pictures) i think i should be alright?
[shadow=black,left]"COMPRESSOR WHEEL DIAMETER - 52mm.

CONDITION: USED

DOES SHAFT TURN? YES

IS THE SHAFT BROKEN? NO

DOES SHAFT HAVE SIDE TO SIDE PLAY? NO

DOES SHAFT HAVE IN AND OUT PLAY? NO

DO FANS HAVE ANY DAMAGE? NO

DO HOUSINGS HAVE ANY DAMAGE? NO"

any other thoughts, think i can get away with this one without a rebuild? or am i just looking for trouble?

turbo dave

well i think im gonna get it. i just cant put myself to buy one of these new ebay t3 *****

BLAAST

oh don'T get me wrong, used or not, it's deifintiely an interresting size of turbocharger!

most of them have an interresting compressor side that's big enough for some very decent power. The problem lies in the turbine side that is often too large, resulting in very disapointing turbo lag. The huge garrett T4 turbos can always have a smaller turbine swapped on but for schwitzer, (and many other brands) smaller turbine sides are either not available, out of price or incompatible so there's very few options left to make it spool up correctly. plugging one half of the twinscroll does work if that level of getthoness is acceptable for you!
in the case of a h22, having a P trim sized turbine wheel is not necessarily a problem. I did it before on my own H22, and it worked like a charm but I was using a .58 A/R housing and spool up was just barely acceptable, let alone the turbine A/R of 1.15, 1.32, even 1.52 A/R that most of these truck turbos have.

When a turbo was used on a farm tractor or stationary equiment for it's whole life, then sat under the rain in a junk yard for 10 years, of course you can't expect it to work or be very reliable as is. Shaft may spin or have no play but bearings are seized into the chra because, internals quickly rust over time due to the combination of steel, aluminum and brass internals that electro-chemically react together almost immediately when soaked in anything else than oil such as rain water that is a good electrolythe. it is not rare to see shafts and thrust collars that served as a sacrifical anodes for the whole turbo resulting in severe corrosion pitting.
A good way to predict this condition is the presence of a white powdery corrosion layer on the compressor wheel.

Braineack

I would not want to try removing those bolts.

consider a holset or borg warner, in good condition.

accordepicenter

id rock it and see what kind of results you get

4drcivicb18a

I got A Question.............. When A turbo has the inlet on the cold side of like a holset where you can put in a silencer, and it sinks in farther then the inlet. Whats the perpose of that and are they always functional