Well the Civic is in a sad state right now as it is going through the transformation. It's sitting in a corner of the shop covered in dirt.

I had originally made a log manifold to use instead of the cast mani but as I mocked it up to position the 14B, I realized that the turbo came too much forward


So it was back to the DX manifold I ported out



and I mounted the 14b to that. It took me a while to mate the turbo and the manifold. I couldn't find any cap-head screws to fit the threads on the 14B. So I had to use a 3/8-24 tap to go over the original holes on the turbo and to match the 3/8 cap bolts I pickup from the Industrial hardware store. I then used a 25/64 bit and a 7/16-20 tap to secure the DX mani to the adapter plate.



So far so good!

I had mad issues with using the Tunertoys" fitting for the oil feed. On a A6 or Y8 it's no problem but on a Zc.......daym!! There is a stock oil cooler in the back of the block so real estate was tight in that area. I had to use a fitting I bought from Z10 Motorsports in addition to the Tunertoys fitting to get the correct length I needed. You can probably use a brass extension but I've seen those broken off in a block, not easy to get out. I ended up mounting the oil feed sandwiched between the water feed for the oil cooler (dry-rotted hose) and the fan switch.



The overall fit was good and since the stock DSM O2 housing literally butts on the crossmember, I also made a flange to fab my own downpipe.


As I progress, I'll update you guys with more. When I'm done I'm gonna do a complete write-up on every detail, from start to finish.

 

did you try turning the turbo around with that log manifold? it might fit better than the DX like that. as long as it doesnt hit the block.

 

It might have been ok but I wasn't comfortable with the placement. Maybe I'll use it when I boost the A6.

Kyle: When I mocked it up it seemed like I would have to make one too many bends in the downpipe to clear the oil pan so I turned it that way to be more direct. Plus I checked the "Projects" page and most ppl have them turned that way. I think it might have been for a reason.................no?

 

Jan. 23, 2004:

I decided I probably would get more flow with the log manifold so I played around and modified it a little more. I re-positioned the down tube to the turbo flange until I was satisfied with the final location. This is the result:







I was going to use an external wastegate but after talking to a few of my DSM friends, I'm gonna stay with the stock. Some of them have run 12 sec with the stock turbo and internal wastegate. When I installed the actuator on the turbo, it was touching the front tranny mount so I modified the bracket a little to clear both the mount and the turbo.

This is what it looks like:








The unit mocked up in the car:





Close but not touching:

 

looks good, you're quite the "fabber"

 

Use the LOG manifold and keep it mounted the right way (compressor on the pass side). I don't know why so many of you try to mount it backwards!?

Here's mine, with a much bigger t3:

 

^^^^ his is facing the same way your is

 

JohnnyQ: Not all of us have the $ to buy a Greddy or Rev-hard kit where the manifold places the turbo in the "ideal" location. When you're on a budjet like most of us, one has to use materials that are readily available so using a manifold like the HF one makes it impossible for the A/C to be re-used. Another reason why so many of us mount the turbo "backwards" is that the O2 housing / downpipe falls in the location where the stock exhaust was and that makes it easy to route a new exhaust so it's only natural to mount it that way.

 

its been done to keep a/c and still use std or hf manifold with an adaptor plate a crazy one thopugh