Twincharged wagon is hitting 30 psi!
1.0 BAR
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 263
Re: Twincharged wagon is hitting 30 psi!
Originally Posted by I Have An STD
Originally Posted by AMkrew
Those things that swim around in rivers, lakes, and oceans, and eat bugs... They're called "fish". Once you "catch" them, you can eat them. It seems, when he said he was "going fishing", he was going to "try" to "catch" a "fish".
Thread Starter
1.0 BAR
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 397
Re: Twincharged wagon is hitting 30 psi!
Back up and running. I had it running on tuesday, on wednesday I took it down off the jack stands and closed the hood.
Wouldnt start. Blown fuse to the ECU.
Swapped out the fuse. Made it down the alley. Poof. Swapped another fuse in. Poof.
Walked back the shop, grabbed two more fuses and some electrical tape. Taped up all my loose wires that may have been the problem. Starts right up. Drive it 40-50 blocks, dies 1 1/2 from the shop. Swap another fuse in. Poof.
WTF?
Put in a 30 amp ciruit breaker and try to start. Bad idea. Something smokes.
Tow it to the shop. One hour later find the culprit, injector wire grounding out.
Trip to the junkyard and score an ECU, 3 relays and extra fuses (those damn fuses are $3.99 a pop).
Yank out my ECU, check it over, its fine. Yank the ignition relay. Pee-yoiu! Toasted.
Put it all back together. Starts right up.
Back to boosting about 20 psi right now. Running extra rich for the moment, and installed the largest meth nozzle. Starts to bog at about 5750 rpm, but thats fine with me, I will tune it down when I get to the drag strip.
I do have a weird miss. #2 cylinder is not firing at idle. I can pull the plug wire and the idle stays 99% the same. Pull any other plug wire and engine stumbles and dies. I pulled the fuel rail and pressurised it, but the injector is not leaking noticable. However, as I type this, I "may" have switched injector plugs..... Easy check.
As you increase the RPMs, if you pull the plug wire, you definately feel the difference, and on boost, power is smooth....
Have some weird noises, but one may be a throwout bearing "whisper/click", the other is either an exhuast leak on one cylinder, or something in the valvetrain down low on the head I pulled.
Ah well, at least it runs right now... haha.
Wouldnt start. Blown fuse to the ECU.
Swapped out the fuse. Made it down the alley. Poof. Swapped another fuse in. Poof.
Walked back the shop, grabbed two more fuses and some electrical tape. Taped up all my loose wires that may have been the problem. Starts right up. Drive it 40-50 blocks, dies 1 1/2 from the shop. Swap another fuse in. Poof.
WTF?
Put in a 30 amp ciruit breaker and try to start. Bad idea. Something smokes.
Tow it to the shop. One hour later find the culprit, injector wire grounding out.
Trip to the junkyard and score an ECU, 3 relays and extra fuses (those damn fuses are $3.99 a pop).
Yank out my ECU, check it over, its fine. Yank the ignition relay. Pee-yoiu! Toasted.
Put it all back together. Starts right up.
Back to boosting about 20 psi right now. Running extra rich for the moment, and installed the largest meth nozzle. Starts to bog at about 5750 rpm, but thats fine with me, I will tune it down when I get to the drag strip.
I do have a weird miss. #2 cylinder is not firing at idle. I can pull the plug wire and the idle stays 99% the same. Pull any other plug wire and engine stumbles and dies. I pulled the fuel rail and pressurised it, but the injector is not leaking noticable. However, as I type this, I "may" have switched injector plugs..... Easy check.
As you increase the RPMs, if you pull the plug wire, you definately feel the difference, and on boost, power is smooth....
Have some weird noises, but one may be a throwout bearing "whisper/click", the other is either an exhuast leak on one cylinder, or something in the valvetrain down low on the head I pulled.
Ah well, at least it runs right now... haha.
3.0 BAR
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,503
Re: Twincharged wagon is hitting 30 psi!
Man, I'm not tryin' to flame because I think you have a TRULY badass ride, but ur ruining the outside appearance of the car...If it was MY car I would take that chrome striping off the lips of the fenderwells and strip the paint down to where the whole car could be primered and repainted one SOLID, good lookin color. Or maybe two-tone, the top 1/4 of the car one color and the bottom 3/4's another...Just my opinion of course, to each his own...
Thread Starter
1.0 BAR
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 397
Re: Twincharged wagon is hitting 30 psi!
Build list
Final build list....
Phase 1 2.5 open deck block with pinned cylinders
Phase 1 2.2 crank
Phase 2 connecting rods
STI pistons
ACL bearings
3 ply metal headgaskets (branded Subaru)
2.5 phase 1 heads mild port and polish - unknown what they are from, but they came with oil outs but no oil in (?)
Estimated compression is 7.2-1
Twin turbo intake manifold
1990 2.2 throttle body
820 cc modded STI 550 sidefeed injectors
3-1 Vortech rrfpr
2.5" intercooler piping
Modded large bore JECS MAF.
Big *** Intercooler
Borla NA header
Custom uppipe and downpipe
2.5 exhaust for now
T3/T4 Garret/Precision turbo (GT30r equivilent)
Eaton M62 supercharger
Greddy "Trust" Manual boost controller
PerfectPower6 piggyback
Devils Own meth injection kit with progressive setup
3 bar MAP
Perfection brand flywheel (new)
Spec stage 4 clutch with 4 puck (if it shows up in time)
And probably some other crap....
-----------------------------
Well, I either have a cylinder down, bad/weird/uneven injectors, something else, or all of the above. You can hear the miss, kinda like a bad lumpy idle. On startup, it sounds like a cylinder is down, but its done this from the moment I built it, and it still made 310 hp....
At idle, it runs on 3 cylinders. #2 is a no go. You can pull the plug wire and nothing. But if you hook up a timing light, its firing.... You can pull the injector plug and nothing happens. But if you start revving up the engine and hold it steady. then pull either the plug wire, or the injector clip, it starts to stumble. ie, revving makes the cylinder fire.
If you pull #1/#3/#4, engine kills fast.
Getting on boost? Runs fast. Other than being untuned and running rich, everything seems perfect.
The kicker, the miss sometimes dissappears!
I compression tested #2..... Its 30 psi. This would mean something is wrong. Duh.... But why would the miss come and go? It will (and definately not in the higher percentage) suddenly start idling close to perfect. At this stage you can pull the plug wire/injector clip and this DOES affect the idle.
Also, the idle AFR will range about. Worst idle = dead rich. Best idle, 14-1.
I can change the tune at idle, and get the AFR to lean up/richen up, and this affect idle, but then it sometimes goes wacko again.
I swapped #2 and #4 injector. No difference.
I am thinking either the injectors are way different in flow and messing things up, or I have a bent valve, or both.....
Final build list....
Phase 1 2.5 open deck block with pinned cylinders
Phase 1 2.2 crank
Phase 2 connecting rods
STI pistons
ACL bearings
3 ply metal headgaskets (branded Subaru)
2.5 phase 1 heads mild port and polish - unknown what they are from, but they came with oil outs but no oil in (?)
Estimated compression is 7.2-1
Twin turbo intake manifold
1990 2.2 throttle body
820 cc modded STI 550 sidefeed injectors
3-1 Vortech rrfpr
2.5" intercooler piping
Modded large bore JECS MAF.
Big *** Intercooler
Borla NA header
Custom uppipe and downpipe
2.5 exhaust for now
T3/T4 Garret/Precision turbo (GT30r equivilent)
Eaton M62 supercharger
Greddy "Trust" Manual boost controller
PerfectPower6 piggyback
Devils Own meth injection kit with progressive setup
3 bar MAP
Perfection brand flywheel (new)
Spec stage 4 clutch with 4 puck (if it shows up in time)
And probably some other crap....
-----------------------------
Well, I either have a cylinder down, bad/weird/uneven injectors, something else, or all of the above. You can hear the miss, kinda like a bad lumpy idle. On startup, it sounds like a cylinder is down, but its done this from the moment I built it, and it still made 310 hp....
At idle, it runs on 3 cylinders. #2 is a no go. You can pull the plug wire and nothing. But if you hook up a timing light, its firing.... You can pull the injector plug and nothing happens. But if you start revving up the engine and hold it steady. then pull either the plug wire, or the injector clip, it starts to stumble. ie, revving makes the cylinder fire.
If you pull #1/#3/#4, engine kills fast.
Getting on boost? Runs fast. Other than being untuned and running rich, everything seems perfect.
The kicker, the miss sometimes dissappears!
I compression tested #2..... Its 30 psi. This would mean something is wrong. Duh.... But why would the miss come and go? It will (and definately not in the higher percentage) suddenly start idling close to perfect. At this stage you can pull the plug wire/injector clip and this DOES affect the idle.
Also, the idle AFR will range about. Worst idle = dead rich. Best idle, 14-1.
I can change the tune at idle, and get the AFR to lean up/richen up, and this affect idle, but then it sometimes goes wacko again.
I swapped #2 and #4 injector. No difference.
I am thinking either the injectors are way different in flow and messing things up, or I have a bent valve, or both.....
