Cowboy_Cadillac

I am in the process of building a 383 Stroker, to put in a Chevy Truck (4wd) which will mainly get drove only int he summer, mainly around town and to the truck pulls where I will pull it in the Local Yokal. The Engine is being built 'One piece at a time' (Thank you Johnny Cash) I am getting engine stuff together, going to get the stroker kit, then a set of aluminum heads, then a (Dont bash to hard) Ebay turbo kit. Now before you all go crazy on me I have read into the Turbo kits. Heck Car Craft Magazine used a kit, and made great power, but kept the boost single digit. Which is what I want. I just want to run 8 PSI of boost. I plan on doing a lot of custom plumbing, and i also plan on doing a y into a nice air to water intercooler.

I have read into this and got a basic concept. First being I need to use a boost refrencing fuel pressure regulator so for every PSI of boost I am pushing I am adding 1 psi of fuel. From there I know I am going to need electric fuel, no biggie. But its the carb that has got me. I know you use those black Nitrophylean? floats instead of brass ones, I know you have to use a carb with no choke, and such, so can anyone give me a idea of a Good Holley or QFT carb thats blow through? Or a place where I can go and read on how to modify a Holley to use with this?

Now we get into the stuff I dont know much about. Cams... I know they sale cams specifically for turbocharging. Do I have to use one? Cause I mainly want this engine to have good low end torque to get the sled moving then good HP upto around 6K RPM to keep the sled moving.

Also I know I should use a timing retarder, like a MSD BTM (Boost Timing Master) I was always told its one degree for one PSI. So theres that, if I am wrong let me know. I plan on aluminum heads, and running strictly 93 in it. If there is anything i missed let me know, but this is what I know, and want some feed back. I am not looking to haev the baddest truck I just want to have the most unique one.

pork chop

forced induction is not permitted in any of the pulls ive ever tech'd, not for street stock or anything but open/exhibition class. just a thought save your money and buy things at once to build it, or you will have a mess of stuff that may never be finished. with forced induction, dont bother with the 383, and put your money into a better turbo system/ bottom end. a good set of 200cc iron heads will be far less money and run the same as the aluminum set. also, iron heads on an iron block makes for a better seal. spend the money you save on a set of .060 copper gaskets and even have orings machined for best seal. air to air? and hotrod has done a whole series on cranking up with ebay turbos. check it out

for the same money as a blowthru setup, u can put a megasquirt and fuelie manifold on it. but if you are stuck on a stinky carb, do a draw thru and water injection, and skip the intercooler. keep the charge pipe short. if you do a little hunting at swap meets, or online, u can find the old school carb plates that draw from under the carb, out the side, then blow right back underneath to the manifold. they fit under stock hoods too. i had one for a twin setup that drew and returned on both sides.

rv cams with a high seperation angle are what you would want. big lift, moderate duration cams with longer exhaust duration. a stock hi-perf cam with 1.6 rockers is just fine, and way cheaper. just keep the overlap down or exhaust temps will be high.

if you are going old school with a carb, just jet the secondaries a couple sizes rich, and run lighter weights for timing advance. water injection quenches any detonation so u can run better mixtures and more timing....just sayin its a big project you are planning. spend your money on machining and less on go-fast parts, and you will have a much better setup when you are finished. a 4000 dollar budget will get you an 8psi 383 with 440hp, or an 18psi 350 with 600hp. up to you

Cowboy_Cadillac

Pork Chop, if you read the class I will be pulling in is 'Local Yokal' its not teched. Its a run what you drove in kind of event. No hood popping no nothing. You just have to be able to drive it there on the street. And yes we get paid for placing in the Top 5.

The reason I am turboing a 383 is cause More Cubes = More Torque.. Horsepower doesnt get that sled moving torque does, and I have never known a turbo system to make enough boost at the bottom end to make good torque. Also its not like I am running a automatic with a transbrake or something where I can rev it up nice and high then unlock it and it go, I am running a SM465 Granny Gear 4 speed, So its all int he concept of taking off with a trailer.

No air to water, like such. A lot of drag cars run them cause there much more efficient then a Air-to-Air, also Paxton and other companys use them with there centrifugal superchargers.

http://www.frozenboost.com/

or where I plan on getting mine from

www.votionspeed.com

And thank you for the tip about jetting the secondaries richer. Makes good sense, if you run them with lighter weights, and i plan on a water/meth injection system.

Yeah its a big project, but I bet at the end of the day with it done up right, my little Twin Turbo 383 from Hell will crank more there 440HP. =)

pork chop

look into a 500 cadillac if you want torque.

www.500cid.com

and my honest opinion, if you just want extra power on the track for pulling in a non tech'd class...use nitrous.

get this....

http://www.amazon.com/Turbochargers-.../dp/0895861356

Cowboy_Cadillac

Hey Porkchop, I am getting that and a few other books so I can read up, I may stray away fromt e TWIN turbo setup and go single turbo. And I been told get a 500, but I cant find one at a reasonable price.

pork chop

caddys are cheap. they are 200-300 bucks. running. u can get the whole cars at scrap price. a stock 500 with a cam and intake has more torque than u can imagine. i built one with a pair of holsets and methanol secondaries a few years ago.

Cowboy_Cadillac

I will have to keep looking, I know there torquey! Appreciate all your help and thoughts by the way Pork!

anonymous

If its torque you are after, than you should go with a positive displacement supercharger on a large CI motor with the stock heads/cam. Don't forget that the final drive is important as well, get the shortest final you can find.

Cowboy_Cadillac

Its getting 4.56 gears at least. May do 4.88's the trucks going to run 35's on track 37's when I drive it around town. And I plan on using a aluminum stock style head. For better heat displacement.