Hitchhikkr

Your missing the point I think.

Drifting has two major concerns for the longivity of an engine. The first being the obivious fact that sustaned corners have the ability to loose the oil pump prime on certain engines. The second is that if your tires are spinning, the engine is technically unloaded. Might not sound bad, but an unloaded engine at a decent RPM is an engine in which the slightest problem will manifest itself in the total destruction of the engine.

In short, its ------- hard on your motor. And with an engine that has known oil control problems and bearing failure if abused, dont expect the thing to hang together.

On the alternative point-of-view, 22r are abundant (at least here) and if you pop yours, a replacement wouldnt be much of a headache. More or less its up to you.

Fueling isnt where you will have a problem. Its the ign. timing that will bite you in the ***. 80's yota ecu setup are ****-poor from the factory, and expecting anything from them like this is unreasonable. If you are going to do a piggyback, accept nothing less than an AEM FIC, which has the ability to PROPERLY clamp maf voltage, and retard timing as well as many other neat little features that escape me at the moment.

my $.02

Smith-02

find a way to adapt a honda ecu/dizzy to the setup, i don't think fitting honda internals in a 22r distributor will be hard. you can always convert to a carb distributor and lock the weights so the vac advance lets you part-throttle it around and gives you a cheap retard in boost

RKSskier

I didn't even think of the oiling being an issue, but you are right. i believe they are known for poor oil circulation or poor pumps. Now the other thing is that I will be just starting, and not able to drift all that often. So I don't see myself holding drifts that are very long, especially for sometime. Honestly I will be doing most the begining will be in the rain. In the dry it will be on crappy tires anyways. Point being it will be less lateral g's than if it was grip driving with stock suspension. So hopefully oil wont actually be an issue. To be honest Im not going to stress about it. Now I hope that the stock power will be enough to keep them spinning small enough, hard enough tires, with enough (too much) camber.

So biggest thing I keep hearing is about the ecu. You guys don't think the stock ecu (fmu + missing link maybe) could handle 4-6 lbs? not talking getting the most out of it as I can, but running reliablly out of boost, and adding some power with the boost and not blowing it up.

Smith-02

you might be able to use a 2wd truck oil pan, they're deep pans

the flapper maf sensor is lame. you just adjust the pretension a few teeth and it makes up for the increased air

stock internals will handle 9lbs if you can find a way to tune, but honestly a honda ingition system might be the cheapest way to adapt it

Hitchhikkr

Smith-02

it's the second most simple engine to work on. save yourself the headache and replace the timing chain, (dual row will help with the high rpm stress), tensioner, and make sure you get metal backed timing guides. and replace the oil pump with a brand name pump such as one from LCE

2 bad points that i have ran into on my own. and watch your ------- *** when you take the timing cover off! headgasket and pan gasket are touching it, loosen your pan bolts so you don't damage the pan gasket or the hg





fluxcore log and 60/63 on my old 22r :1

seerex

Stock low rev 22r want 350,000 miles; still ran good be for selling.

Hitchhikkr

Also when you do the chain, make sure you stuff a rag or something between the block and oil pan when you take the front cover off, chain guide debris will find its way down there, and you will not be a happy camper having to pull the pan too.

Smith-02

youll get some antifreeze down there too. pull your drainplug when you do the chain

im doing my 22r as we speak, ---- i love new parts to play with

Smith-02

how bout 363k

this was #3 piston when i pulled the motor..