traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

like it says, i traded my 14b that was in mint condition for a t-bird garrett .48/.60 turbo.
problem is, 4 out of the 5 holes on the exhaust flange are broken off into the threads of the housing.
ive been told by a coworker to drill out the bolts a bit smaller with a reverse drill-bit, then use a penetrating lube like wd40.
after that use a tool called an "easy out" to spin the bolts out.

has anyone else had the same situation?
and how did you resolve this.

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

Your co-worker is correct

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

exactly!! go get yourself a tap and dye kit and drill the old bolts out and rethread for some new ones.

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

tapping new threads wasnt what he told me to do.
he told me to drill out the center. and reverse the bolts out with an easy-out.

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

Ok I've broken a few bolts on ----. One suspening bolt on the trailing arm/lower control arm in a bushing and a valve cover bolt.

If you can use a drill press. mount the housing in a vice of some sort so it doesn't move around. If you can use a dremel to grind the face of the broken bolt somewhat flat. Then use a prick punch to punch a small dimple in the exact center. (as best you can in the center) this dimple will act as a guide for your drill bit so it doesn't "walk" around on the broken bolt. All the while you should soak the holes in PB-blaster penetrating lubricant (I like PB better than wd-40 as it's made specifically as a penetrating break-free lubricant). If you can use reverse drill bits which will put pressure to unscrew the broken bolt out. Start with small bits and work your way up to larger bits. Make sure that the houseing that your drilling into is square with the bit otherwise you could drill into the housing in which case you potentially screwed.

Easy outs are good I guess I've never used on but try it! It might work good.

You can do it in a vice with a hand held power drill but unless you're steady I'd prefer to do it in a drill press.

It's hard to do and it's a long process.

Any pics of them? I'm not 100% sure on the situation of the broken bolts but pics would help alot.

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

If you screw the old threads up you might need to re-drill and re-thread bigger hole in the housing.

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

What he E-b0la said, I used an easy out but sometimes just drilling intot he with a reverse bit will pull them out

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

sory, i dont have any pics. but the info you gave me was very helpfull.
ill try the pb-blaster to penetrate the threads. the punch technique sounds like a good plan.
im wondering if the reverse bit alone will heat it up enough to spin some of the bolts out.

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

---- wd40, it's a dry lube with petroleum carrying agents.

go with either Starret M1, pennzoil Z4, P'Blaster

and get a brand name (not walmart carried brand) of easy-outs, you'll love it when after the second bolt you take out, your easy-out still has an edge. and 20 bolts later. sure, may cost a few bucks more, but it beats ------- em up.

tapering your bolt hole SLIGHTLY may increase your chances of getting a good edge, also lightly hammer the bit into the bolt to cut a biting edge.

Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
 

what brand of easy-out do you reccomend?