traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
08-23-2006, 08:50 PM
#1
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,276
traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
like it says, i traded my 14b that was in mint condition for a t-bird garrett .48/.60 turbo.
problem is, 4 out of the 5 holes on the exhaust flange are broken off into the threads of the housing.
ive been told by a coworker to drill out the bolts a bit smaller with a reverse drill-bit, then use a penetrating lube like wd40.
after that use a tool called an "easy out" to spin the bolts out.
has anyone else had the same situation?
and how did you resolve this.
problem is, 4 out of the 5 holes on the exhaust flange are broken off into the threads of the housing.
ive been told by a coworker to drill out the bolts a bit smaller with a reverse drill-bit, then use a penetrating lube like wd40.
after that use a tool called an "easy out" to spin the bolts out.
has anyone else had the same situation?
and how did you resolve this.
08-23-2006, 09:10 PM
#5
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,967
Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
Ok I've broken a few bolts on ----. One suspening bolt on the trailing arm/lower control arm in a bushing and a valve cover bolt.
If you can use a drill press. mount the housing in a vice of some sort so it doesn't move around. If you can use a dremel to grind the face of the broken bolt somewhat flat. Then use a ***** punch to punch a small dimple in the exact center. (as best you can in the center) this dimple will act as a guide for your drill bit so it doesn't "walk" around on the broken bolt. All the while you should soak the holes in PB-blaster penetrating lubricant (I like PB better than wd-40 as it's made specifically as a penetrating break-free lubricant). If you can use reverse drill bits which will put pressure to unscrew the broken bolt out. Start with small bits and work your way up to larger bits. Make sure that the houseing that your drilling into is square with the bit otherwise you could drill into the housing in which case you potentially screwed.
Easy outs are good I guess I've never used on but try it! It might work good.
You can do it in a vice with a hand held power drill but unless you're steady I'd prefer to do it in a drill press.
It's hard to do and it's a long process.
Any pics of them? I'm not 100% sure on the situation of the broken bolts but pics would help alot.
If you can use a drill press. mount the housing in a vice of some sort so it doesn't move around. If you can use a dremel to grind the face of the broken bolt somewhat flat. Then use a ***** punch to punch a small dimple in the exact center. (as best you can in the center) this dimple will act as a guide for your drill bit so it doesn't "walk" around on the broken bolt. All the while you should soak the holes in PB-blaster penetrating lubricant (I like PB better than wd-40 as it's made specifically as a penetrating break-free lubricant). If you can use reverse drill bits which will put pressure to unscrew the broken bolt out. Start with small bits and work your way up to larger bits. Make sure that the houseing that your drilling into is square with the bit otherwise you could drill into the housing in which case you potentially screwed.
Easy outs are good I guess I've never used on but try it! It might work good.
You can do it in a vice with a hand held power drill but unless you're steady I'd prefer to do it in a drill press.
It's hard to do and it's a long process.
Any pics of them? I'm not 100% sure on the situation of the broken bolts but pics would help alot.
08-23-2006, 09:21 PM
#8
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,276
Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
Originally Posted by E-b0la
Ok I've broken a few bolts on ----. One suspening bolt on the trailing arm/lower control arm in a bushing and a valve cover bolt.
If you can use a drill press. mount the housing in a vice of some sort so it doesn't move around. If you can use a dremel to grind the face of the broken bolt somewhat flat. Then use a ***** punch to punch a small dimple in the exact center. (as best you can in the center) this dimple will act as a guide for your drill bit so it doesn't "walk" around on the broken bolt. All the while you should soak the holes in PB-blaster penetrating lubricant (I like PB better than wd-40 as it's made specifically as a penetrating break-free lubricant). If you can use reverse drill bits which will put pressure to unscrew the broken bolt out. Start with small bits and work your way up to larger bits. Make sure that the houseing that your drilling into is square with the bit otherwise you could drill into the housing in which case you potentially screwed.
Easy outs are good I guess I've never used on but try it! It might work good.
You can do it in a vice with a hand held power drill but unless you're steady I'd prefer to do it in a drill press.
It's hard to do and it's a long process.
Any pics of them? I'm not 100% sure on the situation of the broken bolts but pics would help alot.
If you can use a drill press. mount the housing in a vice of some sort so it doesn't move around. If you can use a dremel to grind the face of the broken bolt somewhat flat. Then use a ***** punch to punch a small dimple in the exact center. (as best you can in the center) this dimple will act as a guide for your drill bit so it doesn't "walk" around on the broken bolt. All the while you should soak the holes in PB-blaster penetrating lubricant (I like PB better than wd-40 as it's made specifically as a penetrating break-free lubricant). If you can use reverse drill bits which will put pressure to unscrew the broken bolt out. Start with small bits and work your way up to larger bits. Make sure that the houseing that your drilling into is square with the bit otherwise you could drill into the housing in which case you potentially screwed.
Easy outs are good I guess I've never used on but try it! It might work good.
You can do it in a vice with a hand held power drill but unless you're steady I'd prefer to do it in a drill press.
It's hard to do and it's a long process.
Any pics of them? I'm not 100% sure on the situation of the broken bolts but pics would help alot.
ill try the pb-blaster to penetrate the threads. the punch technique sounds like a good plan.
im wondering if the reverse bit alone will heat it up enough to spin some of the bolts out.
08-23-2006, 10:29 PM
#9
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 0
Re: traded my 14b for a t-bird .48/.60 . one problem though.
---- wd40, it's a dry lube with petroleum carrying agents.
go with either Starret M1, pennzoil Z4, P'Blaster
and get a brand name (not walmart carried brand) of easy-outs, you'll love it when after the second bolt you take out, your easy-out still has an edge. and 20 bolts later. sure, may cost a few bucks more, but it beats ------- em up.
tapering your bolt hole SLIGHTLY may increase your chances of getting a good edge, also lightly hammer the bit into the bolt to cut a biting edge.
go with either Starret M1, pennzoil Z4, P'Blaster
and get a brand name (not walmart carried brand) of easy-outs, you'll love it when after the second bolt you take out, your easy-out still has an edge. and 20 bolts later. sure, may cost a few bucks more, but it beats ------- em up.
tapering your bolt hole SLIGHTLY may increase your chances of getting a good edge, also lightly hammer the bit into the bolt to cut a biting edge.
