veracity

re-use the rod if you want but don't act shocked or pissed when the bottom of it snaps and you've created a real mess of your commuting ride. even if it looks fine you've ruined the temper like jd says. and on an accord and civic i put new bearings in and the rods looked fine, once the blued caps were torqued (and taken apart and retorqued) you couldn't even rotate the engine by hand because they were actually flared at the forks but you couldn't see without a micrometer.

TTC

Wouldnt it be safe to say that once a bearing is spun the crank should pretty much be made into a lamp or turned? I was toying with the idea of reusing a crank i spun bearings on. I called around to see how much to micropolish and ---- but in the end i was drunk and dropped it by accident anyway lol ... So i got a new one.

Tom-Guy

A discolored rod does not "look fine." Haven't you heard a thing I said? Build an A6 or Z6 bottom end and be done with the stupidity, pffft.

jinxy

yeah, why don't you just go buy a long block samson? I can imagine you getting your engine back together after the under the car crank job, then the bearings trashing themselves in a week

HiProfile

Honda cranks have been nitride-hardened from the factory, and its supposed to be thick enough to survive 2-3 micropolishings worth of material removal. They are also made of forged steel, which is a tad harder from the get-go than weaksauce bearings.

If the rod doesn't look fucked (heat marks), you can do the bearing-push like Mista Bone suggested and change the oil pump. Since its just a screen on the pickup, its plausable that bearing flakes have destroyed the aluminum around the oil pump gear. Being a Y8, you'll want all the oil you can get, so change the pump. If you want to save $120, you can inspect it and measure it with a feeler gauge.

But to drop the crank - you have to remove the flywheel to get to the 2 upper bolts on the rear seal housing. To remove the flywheel...take a guess at what that entails

fe3tcourier

got a close up photo to prove that, theres a lot of "its forged" BS floating around on the web thanks to the yank boat anchors using really crappy cast parts for a long time. the jap stuff is better made, but not many cranks are forged. in contrast, most jap rods ARE forged... so its not special if they are... but try telling that to some people about my engine and they cry a bit...

samson

I don't trust the oil pump anymore so I'm not even going to mess with checking it any, but rather buy a new one along with new main/rod bearings.


I got the rod ends out, all bearings except main one next to flywheel, and the oil pump is off. I plan on getting some of that sand paper or w/e and polishing two rod ends. One was destroyed and the other #3 looks like it could have spun as well.


JD, I'm not BUILDING a block. This was a stock block in a stock 6th gen that saw it's day over 2 years later from boost. I'm putting OEM parts back into the block and returning it to stock. I don't have time/money to mess around with this stuff right now. I'm fortunate it happened THIS week and not NEXT week 50+ miles away.


I can try and snag some pics of the journals and rod ends if anyone is interested for closer diagnosis and inspection.


Thanks for all the disscussion, but for now my boosted days are over and I'm just looking to have the car running reliably again and hopefully sold sometime in the future.


JP

Tom-Guy

Good luck on saving money by cheesing something.

When I say "build" in my mind I mean free/serviceable A6/Z6 from a friend, glaze break hone, new $50 Hastings rings, $50 ACL bearings, reused pistons, and swap the oil pump if it looks like a worn item. You won't spend much more money although you will have an extra day of work (plus machine shop lag) and have a decent solution - the cold hard facts here are you are dealing with 10+ year old used up crap and have to overcome it somehow.

Find a $200 non-D16Y and drop it in for the short term if you're that bad off.

HiProfile

JD I think the only things he gets free from his friends are ********, not engine blocks

What I don't get is people who can't get the $2-300 it costs to get a decent a6/z6 block to toss on there and just run less timing/less boost. ---- even 3psi is way better than a stock NA d-series, and thats safer than ------- a virgin with 2 condoms.

samson

Honestly, that sounds like my best bet right now. I can't risk throwing in a new pump and bearings only to watch it totally fail again. As much as I HATE to say it, I think everyone is right and that even a new rod should be in store as well as the crank being turned. Well with all that, the head comes off, the tranny pulled.....might as well drop in a new motor.


So JD, I want to take it back to stock completely and I for see Y8 head and (God willing) some Z6 block mated together. OBDIIa should all still work because dizzy/head being Y8 still, correct?





HiProfile, are you implying I don't have the money or resources? I have the money, I need to find the motor and a dealership won't take kindly to a boosted car....


JP