Thank God Thank God Thank God Thank God....Motor In and runs GREAT!!! Praise God
08-19-2007, 07:33 PM
#12
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Uhhhh......Oil PSI Light? UPDATE: I'm Officially Screwed!! ROD KNOCK
Pull pan
Pull rod caps off to try to find the bearing that's at the door. (knock knock, who duur?)
Replace that rod bearing, or all of them with the same colored ones.
Put Z6 oil pump, pickup, and pan back on. (no, you won't have a dipstick anymore, dipstick)
Pull rod caps off to try to find the bearing that's at the door. (knock knock, who duur?)
Replace that rod bearing, or all of them with the same colored ones.
Put Z6 oil pump, pickup, and pan back on. (no, you won't have a dipstick anymore, dipstick)
08-19-2007, 09:40 PM
#13
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,161
Re: Uhhhh......Oil PSI Light? UPDATE: I'm Officially Screwed!! ROD KNOCK
Cylinder #2's rod bearing is history. It's not even there. Totally destroyed which lead to the clogging of the oil pickup/oil screen in the pan. The main bearings looked a little screwed too by just dropping the bottom ones out. It looks as though I'm going to have to replace all the main bearings as well as the rod bearings. Plus the oil pick up is so far beyond repair it's only good for a rod bearing catcher.
Don't tell me.....I have to pull the tranny to get the crankshaft dropped don't I? This is so gay.
The rod is a little blued in the middle, but not all over. I'm thinking it's okay for reuse as new rod bearings are going in anyway. Am I right?
JP
Don't tell me.....I have to pull the tranny to get the crankshaft dropped don't I? This is so gay.
The rod is a little blued in the middle, but not all over. I'm thinking it's okay for reuse as new rod bearings are going in anyway. Am I right?
JP
08-20-2007, 02:26 AM
#14
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 0
Re: #2 Rod Bearing Destroyed....
Why you wanna drop the crank?
You can replace the top bearing shells by pushing on them and rotating the crank.
Two warnings.........
1) Wear glasses, oil will drip for WEEKS!!!!
2) Wear glasses! Thrust bearings hurt when they fall into your eye
One tip......
with the mains out you can use 1" wide 320/400 grit emery cloth thined down to .900 wide to mircopolish the crank journals.......
IF it's even salvageable.
But likely you have metal EVERYWHERE and the motor should be stripped and flushed.
100 shot with wrong ECU chip, had 6 degrees extra timing.......trashed the crank
You can replace the top bearing shells by pushing on them and rotating the crank.
Two warnings.........
1) Wear glasses, oil will drip for WEEKS!!!!
2) Wear glasses! Thrust bearings hurt when they fall into your eye
One tip......
with the mains out you can use 1" wide 320/400 grit emery cloth thined down to .900 wide to mircopolish the crank journals.......
IF it's even salvageable.
But likely you have metal EVERYWHERE and the motor should be stripped and flushed.
100 shot with wrong ECU chip, had 6 degrees extra timing.......trashed the crank
08-20-2007, 02:33 AM
#15
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Uhhhh......Oil PSI Light?
Originally Posted by samson
Not planning on changing if I don't have too. And Y8's are known for this but really only on built motors so getting another one it will probably suck again.
Welcome to why I won't own one. Welcome to what Honda dealer techs knew since last decade.
PS - I posit that this has happened to you because Jesus hates you. You know, the mythical boogeyman in the sky that "hardened my heart" as you put it in direct conflict with humanity's supposed free will. You might think that's a spiteful off-topic jab at you, but it's the sort of classic illogic I am used to from people who build Y8s even when they are told why not to... and then act surprised when their Y8 up and pulls a Y8 on them. Makes slightly less sense than reusing a rod whose temper has been destroyed.
08-20-2007, 09:28 AM
#19
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,161
Re: #2 Rod Bearing Destroyed....
Originally Posted by Mista Bone
Why you wanna drop the crank?
You can replace the top bearing shells by pushing on them and rotating the crank.
Two warnings.........
1) Wear glasses, oil will drip for WEEKS!!!!
2) Wear glasses! Thrust bearings hurt when they fall into your eye
One tip......
with the mains out you can use 1" wide 320/400 grit emery cloth thined down to .900 wide to mircopolish the crank journals.......
IF it's even salvageable.
But likely you have metal EVERYWHERE and the motor should be stripped and flushed.
100 shot with wrong ECU chip, had 6 degrees extra timing.......trashed the crank
You can replace the top bearing shells by pushing on them and rotating the crank.
Two warnings.........
1) Wear glasses, oil will drip for WEEKS!!!!
2) Wear glasses! Thrust bearings hurt when they fall into your eye
One tip......
with the mains out you can use 1" wide 320/400 grit emery cloth thined down to .900 wide to mircopolish the crank journals.......
IF it's even salvageable.
But likely you have metal EVERYWHERE and the motor should be stripped and flushed.
100 shot with wrong ECU chip, had 6 degrees extra timing.......trashed the crank
I was thinking about this last night and figured I MIGHT be able to push them through so thank God I can....whew....relief. However!!! I think I need to flush the engine because there was #2 bearing all in my oil pickup and through out the pan. It totally shattered and was strewn about.
Soooooo what's the easiest way to flush my engine without a tear down of it? I need to start doing SOMETHING to get the ball rolling....
The crank actually looks to be alright. Like I said though #2 rod is a little scorched in the middle and darkened on the outside in color, but nothing ridiculous.
Oh and JD, thanks for all the tech you offered in my post. You're oh so wise....your battle with Jesus is rather just a battle with yourself.
JP
08-20-2007, 09:49 AM
#20
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 752
Re: #2 Rod Bearing Destroyed....
by pump failure we mean what? too much side clearance? split and destroyed rotating gears? or what?
seems that he has some pressure/flow so the pump hasnt exploded. side play doesnt just appear all at once like that.
one possible reason that may not be applicable is oil temps rise during a boosted run, and while the rpms are higher, the pressure is still good, whereas once they drop afterwards the oil is still hot, and the slow spinning pump cant push enough volume to keep the pressure high with the lower viscosity...
resisting urge to quote JD ;-)
seems that he has some pressure/flow so the pump hasnt exploded. side play doesnt just appear all at once like that.
one possible reason that may not be applicable is oil temps rise during a boosted run, and while the rpms are higher, the pressure is still good, whereas once they drop afterwards the oil is still hot, and the slow spinning pump cant push enough volume to keep the pressure high with the lower viscosity...
resisting urge to quote JD ;-)
