leed

C'mon Johnny. I'm also one of those guys at 355whp on stock internals. Also, I dont baby my car like some of those HT sissies. My engine doesnt see a single day w/o several 3rd gear 15psi rippers to 8400. Hell, my drive to work is all but 2m at the most, and every time I get home my peak/hold on the boost controller reads 1.20bar & 8488 lol

I like to think of the limits of stock rods in terms of Ft/lbs of TQ being produced, especially on D series. As for the pistons, it comes down to the knock limit of pump gas. If it doesnt ping, your golden.

kwikcoupe

thanks allI apprieciate the input. Yes its the JDM B20A1 from the 86-89 accords and yes its going into a 89 accord. The stock accord ecu is liomited at 6750 rpm so i wasnt sure if I could exceed that even with obd1 upgrade and uber running a P06 ecu. Im going to have ittuned right so hopefully there wont be any detonation. Thw rods are the exact same as the h23, b20a5. It is a closed deck and I wasnt sure if you can have a closed deck resleeved. This is more of a will it work over how long itll work. Im planning on biulding up anither block Ive got around Im just curious if honda biulds there stuff to last and a little perforkamnce or just to last a reallylong time. The 350 goal is a goal and well see. Id like to keep alot of drivability so a turbo that will spool around 3 -3500 max. Im not sure about those turbos listed I ll have to look into those. Thanks

J-SMITH69

yah i know that but have many pistons has you wasted at that power level :-p

Tom-Guy

It's temperature, not cylinder pressure. A piston approaching knock limit on your fuel of choice will get warmer and warmer - the crown of an aluminum piston is already pretty soggy. That heated area expands as the fuel can no longer generate enough water mass to cool the combustion reaction/piston can no longer dissipate enough heat through the piston skirts.

Given that a hunk of aluminum is half as strong at 600 deg F as it is at room temperature I can ASSure you that it is not the cylinder pressure, it is the temperature as you approach meltdown! Any pressure spikes from incipent detonation that actually break the lands... are just a symptom of running the engine too damn hot.

Such spelling. Guys, please refer to this guy as the expert on EVERYTHING from now on.

93turbo16

and I will assume that pressure and temperature aren't related.

Tom-Guy

Ben Strader may teach you that volumetric efficiency ---- in his LIES 101 class, because that is what the industry wants taught. But he's not exactly sold on the Ideal Gas LIE - I believe he referred to his views as Mass-ometric Efficiency.

And when dealing with sufficient coolant (water formed by combustion reaction OR from outside injection) the temperature DROPS significantly while the pressure goes up. Strength of the aluminum piston is maintained, pressure is maintained, temperature goes down. Latent heat of evaporation - it's what your engine is having for dinner. Open any textbook on steam turbines to understand what is going on here. That Charles Fayette Taylor Internal Combustion Engine in Theory and Practice crap lauded as a PRIMARY SOURCE for combustion theory means about as much as it's erroneous... you know, the bibliography where a good half of his cited sources say things that contradict what they are supposed to support?

Spenser

joe, tell us about your dream turbo/engine setup. I want to know. You should teach a hmt class.

93turbo16

That is the best way I have thought of it, I do understand what you are saying here... obviously most things are not even close to ideal gases in the first place. But that is what I am Here ( at college) to learn.

But I am trying to get this straight, exactly how much water formed by combustion is there. I mean obviously if you have more or less fuel.. is there more or less water formed during the combustion.

Tom-Guy

Spenser, I'd probably run a 351W poured with block filler (poured solid if track-only trailerqueen) on a set of inexpensive forgings, girdle, and whatever used, cheap aftermarket heads I could scrounge up. Ported GT40 lower intake, BIG turbo. The transmission would be held together with a prayer - but you weren't asking about that, were you? :P Sitar @ www.toohighpsi.com laid 670 whp while spinning slicks on the dyno rollers with a *stock* bottom end 351W out of a '72 F-150, and has run 9's with less than $3000 spent. Look at the budget build on his page - heh. It doesn't take a lot of money, and all that shiny underhood ---- isn't needed until you run Pro-Stock or the like. Most of you HMT kids understand that by your second or third build.

For every pound of gasoline, two pounds of water is formed. Roughly. Combustion inefficiencies abound due to real world designs being a compromise of the ideal physics involved, as well as limitations of the fuel involved. Injecting a ratio of 25-50% water(/diluent) to gasoline, by volume, is a significant but still a small fraction of the water in the combustion chamber. Gasoline makes optimum power at slight rich mixtures, although less heat is produced, because optimum amounts of working fluid (technical term for wet steam/water) and minimal amounts of contaminants to the working fluid (unburnt HC, CO, NOx, etc) are present to kep the working fluid from doing it's job. Compare gasoline to methanol - you ALWAYS make more power on methanol because it has less contaminants as a byproduct of combustion.