Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
07-19-2005, 03:04 PM
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 462
Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
Originally Posted by projekteg
52psi static fuel pressure is still pretty high. there's no need to raise your fuel pressure unless you're running out of injector, which i think you're far from doing. i would set the fuel pressure around 45psi.
07-19-2005, 03:06 PM
#22
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Join Date: Oct 2004
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Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
Originally Posted by Koby
Originally Posted by quadtech
No seriously do everyone a favor and remove yourself from the gene pool.
07-19-2005, 03:51 PM
#23
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Join Date: Dec 2002
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Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
Originally Posted by quadtech
Originally Posted by Koby
Originally Posted by quadtech
No seriously do everyone a favor and remove yourself from the gene pool.
07-20-2005, 09:49 PM
#24
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 306
Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
I'm being concise with bashings because there are a million other ricers out there just like you with more money than sense.
You've obviously thrown some serious coin at the car. It takes at least a couple grand to do a bottom end build on a VS/VTEC and get her running. We'll say $2,500 to be fair.
Then you even say that you've put another $1,500 into the turbo setup for a little 48/60 T3.
Not too bad honestly, $4,000 in performance upgrades to be very conservative and just consider the motor and turbo. Now your saying your best pull is 160whp.
I could keep going on about you being a retard for spending four grand and making #'s like that, but instead I'll offer a few tips:
- 440cc injectors will do anything you can throw at em with a small T3 turbo. Supporting modifications are your friend (walbro 255 fuel pump, wideband to tune on the street since dyno tuning is useless, tuning, tuning, and more tuning)
- Stop ------- around at 3psi, you have the tuning software and the fuel to at least do 9-10 pounds no problem. Of course it is going to be pig rich at retarded low boost with big fuel injectors and high fuel pressure.
You've obviously thrown some serious coin at the car. It takes at least a couple grand to do a bottom end build on a VS/VTEC and get her running. We'll say $2,500 to be fair.
Then you even say that you've put another $1,500 into the turbo setup for a little 48/60 T3.
Not too bad honestly, $4,000 in performance upgrades to be very conservative and just consider the motor and turbo. Now your saying your best pull is 160whp.
I could keep going on about you being a retard for spending four grand and making #'s like that, but instead I'll offer a few tips:
- 440cc injectors will do anything you can throw at em with a small T3 turbo. Supporting modifications are your friend (walbro 255 fuel pump, wideband to tune on the street since dyno tuning is useless, tuning, tuning, and more tuning)
- Stop ------- around at 3psi, you have the tuning software and the fuel to at least do 9-10 pounds no problem. Of course it is going to be pig rich at retarded low boost with big fuel injectors and high fuel pressure.
07-20-2005, 10:09 PM
#25
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 144
Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
Originally Posted by quadtech
I will be going back this weekend now that i have 1000km on the motor, i will put the 10psi spring back in and give her ----.
Originally Posted by Koby
- Stop ------- around at 3psi, you have the tuning software and the fuel to at least do 9-10 pounds no problem. Of course it is going to be pig rich at retarded low boost with big fuel injectors and high fuel pressure.
"Clean your finger before you point at my spots. " - Benjamin Franklin
07-21-2005, 11:07 PM
#27
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 462
Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
more money then sense? good one there jackass.
If that was the case, i wouldnt have spent on a EF chassis or a LS motor to begin with.
The motor is peanuts when i work at a speed shop and i assemble the motors myself. There is absolutely nothing wrong in being easy on a motor for the little while, if you feel otherwise, thats fine, but id rather not beat the ---- out of a motor on start up.
As well, i didnt ask for your bullshit, i posted up results and hoped to gather a consesnus as to why the power was lower than normal and what i may be doing wrong and go abouts correcting it.
If i wanted useless comments i would have gone to hondatech and posted my ---- there.
for someone that comes off as helpful in other threads, you seem to love to beat down on my thread.
If that was the case, i wouldnt have spent on a EF chassis or a LS motor to begin with.
The motor is peanuts when i work at a speed shop and i assemble the motors myself. There is absolutely nothing wrong in being easy on a motor for the little while, if you feel otherwise, thats fine, but id rather not beat the ---- out of a motor on start up.
As well, i didnt ask for your bullshit, i posted up results and hoped to gather a consesnus as to why the power was lower than normal and what i may be doing wrong and go abouts correcting it.
If i wanted useless comments i would have gone to hondatech and posted my ---- there.
for someone that comes off as helpful in other threads, you seem to love to beat down on my thread.
Originally Posted by Koby
I'm being concise with bashings because there are a million other ricers out there just like you with more money than sense.
You've obviously thrown some serious coin at the car. It takes at least a couple grand to do a bottom end build on a VS/VTEC and get her running. We'll say $2,500 to be fair.
Then you even say that you've put another $1,500 into the turbo setup for a little 48/60 T3.
Not too bad honestly, $4,000 in performance upgrades to be very conservative and just consider the motor and turbo. Now your saying your best pull is 160whp.
I could keep going on about you being a retard for spending four grand and making #'s like that, but instead I'll offer a few tips:
- 440cc injectors will do anything you can throw at em with a small T3 turbo. Supporting modifications are your friend (walbro 255 fuel pump, wideband to tune on the street since dyno tuning is useless, tuning, tuning, and more tuning)
- Stop ------- around at 3psi, you have the tuning software and the fuel to at least do 9-10 pounds no problem. Of course it is going to be pig rich at retarded low boost with big fuel injectors and high fuel pressure.
You've obviously thrown some serious coin at the car. It takes at least a couple grand to do a bottom end build on a VS/VTEC and get her running. We'll say $2,500 to be fair.
Then you even say that you've put another $1,500 into the turbo setup for a little 48/60 T3.
Not too bad honestly, $4,000 in performance upgrades to be very conservative and just consider the motor and turbo. Now your saying your best pull is 160whp.
I could keep going on about you being a retard for spending four grand and making #'s like that, but instead I'll offer a few tips:
- 440cc injectors will do anything you can throw at em with a small T3 turbo. Supporting modifications are your friend (walbro 255 fuel pump, wideband to tune on the street since dyno tuning is useless, tuning, tuning, and more tuning)
- Stop ------- around at 3psi, you have the tuning software and the fuel to at least do 9-10 pounds no problem. Of course it is going to be pig rich at retarded low boost with big fuel injectors and high fuel pressure.
07-22-2005, 08:49 PM
#28
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 437
Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
Originally Posted by quadtech
There is absolutely nothing wrong in being easy on a motor for the little while, if you feel otherwise, thats fine, but id rather not beat the ---- out of a motor on start up.
"Although these pistons came out of engines which were raced for a full season, they weren't set-up with any special clearances or other preparation.
These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally stock as built by Honda.
The only difference was the break in method they used...
The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions.
The one on the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration.
Needless to say, this bike was slow !!"
07-23-2005, 08:30 PM
#29
0.5 BAR
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 152
Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
if you map out your turbo to your motor and motors' operating range you'll find the region where that turbo will work, if you are below the efficiency range then any gains are lost, don't waste your time running 'too low' boost. You'd be better off just to remove the cold side altogether and block it off with a plate, and you'd probably get higher numbers.
Make sure you are in the efficiency range and you'll see a big difference.
Neil
Make sure you are in the efficiency range and you'll see a big difference.
Neil
07-23-2005, 09:08 PM
#30
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 127
Re: Spun the 4dr EF on the dyno, results inside.
these are my suggestions..
go obd1..
turbo edit is great tuning software.. but you're limited in obd0
get a Moates Ostrich rom emulator and do some real time tuning
before you put ur car on the dyno.. get the a/f tuned on the street...
then you can take some time and work on your IGN tables on the dyno and not have to screw around with getting your a/f set..
my old all motor lsvtec made 160 whp baseline.. at that time i didnt have the wbo2, or my rom emulator.. i took 3 chips with me with slightly different tunes.. that was about 2 years ago.
anyway.. datalogging + wbo2 + rom emulator = how to make more power
about breaking in motors.. everyone has their own way of doing it..
i've got a buddy who ran his car nice for 10 miles then couldnt stand it any longer and ran the **** outta it.. he's run that race motor for 3 seasons and the motor is still running great.. my machinist who builds $35k race motors for nascar style race cars has an engine dyno and he's done testing on breaking in the motor.. says after 8 runs on the engine dyno the motor is 98% broken in.. but if someone wants to break their motors in the long way.. its their decision.. i went 250 miles on my lsvtec before running the **** outta it.. had 230 psi across the 4 cylinders when i pulled the motor and traded it for a stock gsr motor. good lsvtec.. had other plans tho
go obd1..
turbo edit is great tuning software.. but you're limited in obd0
get a Moates Ostrich rom emulator and do some real time tuning
before you put ur car on the dyno.. get the a/f tuned on the street...
then you can take some time and work on your IGN tables on the dyno and not have to screw around with getting your a/f set..
my old all motor lsvtec made 160 whp baseline.. at that time i didnt have the wbo2, or my rom emulator.. i took 3 chips with me with slightly different tunes.. that was about 2 years ago.
anyway.. datalogging + wbo2 + rom emulator = how to make more power
about breaking in motors.. everyone has their own way of doing it..
i've got a buddy who ran his car nice for 10 miles then couldnt stand it any longer and ran the **** outta it.. he's run that race motor for 3 seasons and the motor is still running great.. my machinist who builds $35k race motors for nascar style race cars has an engine dyno and he's done testing on breaking in the motor.. says after 8 runs on the engine dyno the motor is 98% broken in.. but if someone wants to break their motors in the long way.. its their decision.. i went 250 miles on my lsvtec before running the **** outta it.. had 230 psi across the 4 cylinders when i pulled the motor and traded it for a stock gsr motor. good lsvtec.. had other plans tho
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