Tom-Guy

The (long runner) equal length bullshit makes you spool like ***.

Go with a short runner with precision cut merge collector. There is no power limiting difference, and you spool a lot quicker. Unequal length runners mean ---- all for practical forced induction applications. If you were trying to pair cylinders and time pulses, sure equal length means something, but when you dump all pulses into a common collector with a couple cyls having exhaust valves open at the same time it accomplishes nothing at the expense of spool.

Chaos325

so you think a log mani would be better? I wanted to keep ac and or at least the stock radiator. Thats why I came up with those manis. Thats why I skipped over the hf.

Tom-Guy

A log manifold is not a precision cut merge collector. Think of a ramhorm or the like without all the extra runner length or equal length nonsense concerns.

Log manifolds get the job done well for a cheap fun car, but if you want to make some power they act as a bottle neck and cause the individual cylinders to breathe differently... that does not make for a stable tune.

What power are you shooting for?

hotrex

hes shooting for, ......... ********* in his mouth




carry on

Chaos325

No, I wasn't shooting for anything - I was teabagging you. Dropping versus shooting get it? You probably won't, never mind.

Well my car is at 146hp right now, I'm aiming for about 250whp on boost. My motor is excellent on low and mid, but lacks upper rpm power. I figure I want something thats spooled around 4.5-5k and will hold until redline at 7.5k. Thats why I chose a turbo with a .63 exhaust which combined with my crespo stage 3 cams should achieve that.

Scratching the log, done. I'm following what you are describing on point. Heres is a crazy idea, could I weld up what you are describing in a top-mount configuration in order to clear ac and the rad? what diameter piping is used for turbo manifold and what grade metel? The downpipe will be 2.25" mild steel.

Tom-Guy

Pushing a straight T3 to 250whp on a D-platform, I do recommend a merge collector as that is the beginning of where the border of safety on those engines begins. The merge collector is also good for not restricting flow, so it will help some with bottlenecking.

Spooling low doesn't neccesarily mean you have to sacrifice great top end. The system should work well all around.

Top mount is do-able, but when you say D16A1 I envision a tight engine bay from that era Civic (the 1G Integras I parted out years ago were all wrecked in the front, no idea about room in those) so you'll have to shuffle things regardless. You can probably keep AC, no comment on the rad... I'm thinking you'll have to fab a later half width unit in there and the upper radiator support is going to be problematic.

Go larger than 2.25" downpipe. 2.5 or 3 and you'll spool quicker AND breathe better at top end.

Chaos325

Okay, I was going on what I've saw on massive sites about turbos running out on top and actually causing power loss. Merge collector it is. Acutally my 1g teg has never had any front end damage, so its about 9" of clearance between the block and the radiator. Larger dp it is. I can do the half in the future np, I'm just trying to stretch funds as I don't work. Fabing up a top rad mount is np since I've gone rad fabrication before. In my fathers 85 corolla sr5 hatch we grafted on the 94 talon es body and I converted to the talons electrical fans in addition to modifing the cross member and rigging up the rad supports/mounts.

I must say that you are a informative all around guy cool,

Tom-Guy

9" is plenty, you'll be fine. I used to have an 86 CRX Si w/ D16A1, they have much less.

Chaos325

Trust I know, I've seen them before.