Aaron Cake

My day job is computer tech. However ever since I was a kid I've enjoyed building and fabrication. I really got into cars when I was 16/17 and became obsessed with the DeLorean. I ended up buying an RX-7 instead (really, the RX-7 kind of found me) and the rest is history. It's nice to have a hobby so completely different from work that there is little in common. It's a good de-stresser.

Ha! I'm damn near 30. Sometimes still a little shaggy though.

My facilities are not that great considering. Just a garage only slightly larger then the car, a driveway, and a basement. Occasionally I used to do a little work at a shop but that was basically only welding since I don't have a TIG. Once the RX-7 (and I guess the Cosmo) are done it will be nice to buy a house with a 3 car garage. Room for a lift and a little welding area so that I don't have to work around the lack of space.

Aaron Cake

Thank you! The Cosmo is going to be a basic restoration with a little bit of engine work and body smoothing, nothing too crazy. It's a very rare car so I don't want to bastardize it.

After the Cosmo I will finally purchase the car I've wanted for 22+ years; an '82 DeLorean. The plan is to build a custom tube frame and install a fairly built 20B (3 rotor) rotary. Probably a GT40R as well.

seerex

I like the Delorean idea, but 20b SUCK 13b are more reliable.

Smith-02

holy ---- aaron, i used to be on your forum like 8 years ago. i forgot all about you!

still have the plywood gocart?

Aaron Cake

You're telling me which engine to use?

Just joking...The 20B is a "large" displacement engine designed to motivate a large car (the Eunos Cosmo). It produces a shed load more torque then the 13B and due to it's large displacement, will make much more power with a lot less port work and boost. With a GT40R, a stock port (though I will street port it) 20B will lay down nearly 600HP without even breaking a sweat. And it will do it for 100,000+ miles. In a heavy car like the DeLorean the superior torque curve of the 20B will be more suited, and with a small turbo like the GT40R boost will be instant.

I took the go-kart apart several years ago. It had sat in the driveway for a while and had degraded a bit from disuse. I still have the engine and most of the parts which I'm sure there will be a use for in the future sometime. I've been thinking of doing an electric go-kart but I already have too many projects.

QikEnuF

When I went to the 12 Hours of Sebring in 2003 there was a 20b Delorean. Is it a common swap? Big fan of rotaries ever since my dad stuck a 13b into a VW Bus. Really want a Rotary Pickup to stick a nice single snail 13b in at some point

Aaron Cake

It's not really a common swap. As far as I know, it's only been done once by I believe a Lotus owner. They used the stock twin turbos which really isn't ideal. For me they won't make the power I want and all the plumbing is really a nightmare. A big single is really the way to go for power so a GT40R with a nondivided hotside just over 1.0 would be very responsive on the 20B. Hell, my 40R makes full boost right around 3500 RPM on my 13B.

A REPU would be a great thing to have. Getting hard to find these days...Well, I guess they were always hard to find as it's not like they were very popular.

78NOVA

hey arron. where would recomend getting apex seals. i blew the rear apex seals i believe in my rx7 about 2 weeks ago now. i havent messed with it to actually make sure though. im not entirely sure about checking to see if they either just dried up, or if the springs recessed and are not making a full seal.

btw, do you plan to add slicks on the rx7 the next time your at the strip? 13 seconds is badass. i think 12's or 11's would be better though!!

Aaron Cake

Mazda apex seals are generally the "best" seal. Mazda has put a lot of work and research into building a strong seal that lasts hundreds of thousands of miles yet doesn't chew up the rotor housings. They've recently switched back to a two piece design with is stronger then the 3 piece seals that all 2nd gens came with. They are a good choice.

Atkins makes some nice aftermarket seals that have been used for many years with good results. They are a bit "softer" then standard Mazda seals so they will break into used housings much more quickly. They are a good choice if you are assembling an engine with used parts. A little cheaper as well.

But before you tear it apart, make sure it's blown. A poor man's compression test is easy:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm

As for the slicks, I don't think I'll ever bother. To me it's no longer a street car when things like that are swapped out at the track. Saying the car ran low 11s is nice, but then having to explain that it was on a set of slicks is a little annoying.