Modified SC61 @ 18psi, Built A6 + Nitrous. Whos got some insight?Should I Try It
Get rid of the SRP slugs.
2 d series motors ... 6 out of 8 pistons fried.
you know what pictures im talking about
---- the zex dry kit... if you run any nitrous, then get a direct port kit
I'm not exaclty what your hp goal is (i dont feel like reading) but you should look into gettin a t3 / t4 b .48/.60 v-trim they are like $460 new and are good for 425hp.
2 d series motors ... 6 out of 8 pistons fried.
you know what pictures im talking about

---- the zex dry kit... if you run any nitrous, then get a direct port kit
I'm not exaclty what your hp goal is (i dont feel like reading) but you should look into gettin a t3 / t4 b .48/.60 v-trim they are like $460 new and are good for 425hp.
I really dont have a hp goal, dont care what itll run in the 1/4 because Ill never bring it there
Just want a car that I can have fun in myself, on the highway
Like even now with the sohc zc on the bottle I just have a blast going from 80km-240km just ------- full throttle rips where you honestly just forget about everything and just love the car
But I wouldnt mind being able to roast a few stang and ricers from stoplights, dont want to always have to go from a roll or have to get up to 100 before I start making some power and am always falling out of boost you know what I mean
And yes the nitrous will be a small shot and it will be a dry kit, thats what I have (w/ heater/purge/pressure gauge) so it wont cost me a thing
I love this car
Just want a car that I can have fun in myself, on the highway
Like even now with the sohc zc on the bottle I just have a blast going from 80km-240km just ------- full throttle rips where you honestly just forget about everything and just love the car
But I wouldnt mind being able to roast a few stang and ricers from stoplights, dont want to always have to go from a roll or have to get up to 100 before I start making some power and am always falling out of boost you know what I mean
And yes the nitrous will be a small shot and it will be a dry kit, thats what I have (w/ heater/purge/pressure gauge) so it wont cost me a thing
I love this car
Originally Posted by ssl2k
Get rid of the SRP slugs.
2 d series motors ... 6 out of 8 pistons fried.
you know what pictures im talking about
2 d series motors ... 6 out of 8 pistons fried.
you know what pictures im talking about

Im curious to know more about Precision turbo's
If they're not ball bearing, whats the advantage to me laying down the cash on a sc34 or sc50 vs say a garrett t3/t4.
Is it just better construction and more optimal trims and such?
If they're not ball bearing, whats the advantage to me laying down the cash on a sc34 or sc50 vs say a garrett t3/t4.
Is it just better construction and more optimal trims and such?
They jsut seem to make huge numbers to me, even VS a T3/T4 with similar A/R's they just seem to make more power and be more effiectient
But I really need some opinions on using it for a street car
But I really need some opinions on using it for a street car
Originally Posted by ****
Im curious to know more about Precision turbo's
If they're not ball bearing, whats the advantage to me laying down the cash on a sc34 or sc50 vs say a garrett t3/t4.
Is it just better construction and more optimal trims and such?
If they're not ball bearing, whats the advantage to me laying down the cash on a sc34 or sc50 vs say a garrett t3/t4.
Is it just better construction and more optimal trims and such?
Remember Garrett's Performance turbos = Precision
So AbAz do you think I should try it out?
Like I said its going to be a street car and its going to be my first boosted car. Ill have higher compression and maybe a little giggle gas
But I dont want it to spoll @6500, shift and fall out of boost
And I cant really just try it out, since the downpipe bolt pattern is a 4 bolt and itll be a lot of work to swap turbo's
Like I said its going to be a street car and its going to be my first boosted car. Ill have higher compression and maybe a little giggle gas
But I dont want it to spoll @6500, shift and fall out of boost
And I cant really just try it out, since the downpipe bolt pattern is a 4 bolt and itll be a lot of work to swap turbo's
Honestly, I am always for trying stuff, but this one I can already tell you isnt going to work out to well. Sure if you like hitting NAWZ everytime you want to spool it and if you like raping the ---- out of your car to make any power, go for it. But I like a little bit of a comprimise when I'm driving a FI car, I like a decent spool time and great top end. Like I said, if you build the ---- out of your A6, port the head, get a good cam, upgrade the valve train. Use a equal length turbo manifold, 3in dp and 3in exhaust. Maybe a 10.1c/r engine, a nice Intake mani with good throttle body. A hybrid ZC/SI tranny, eh it might work out alright.
A built a6 would be good with a SC34.
A built a6 would be good with a SC34.



