manifold length question
#21
here is me asking what you were working with. is that not clear? i was trying to help and your started to be a jerk off and made everyone realize that you are not going to make anything. you are some ricer loser that just talks about what they "are" going to do to thier car. it happens all the time
#22
why is your join date sep 2009? every one says that but i know for a fact hotrex,jd,bdvt, and all the other ogs would tear you a new -------. and funny thing is i was here years ago too the only thing ruining it now is how all the new people (i.e. YOU) ask stupid ------- questions and then gets pisssed when people try to help them.
#23
why is your join date sep 2009? every one says that but i know for a fact hotrex,jd,bdvt, and all the other ogs would tear you a new -------. and funny thing is i was here years ago too the only thing ruining it now is how all the new people (i.e. YOU) ask stupid ------- questions and then gets pisssed when people try to help them.
#24
http://www.full-race.com/articles/Bs...st_writeup.pdf
Now, to contradict most of what I just said. Headers are pretty easy for turbo cars, as test after test has shown that most like a primary length between 16-24". Between this range, it's motor specific, but every motor tested by Bell in his book "Forced Induction Performance Tuning" liked a header in that range. So his advice was to build them at 16", and re-dyno by adding an inch at a time to find out what your motor likes best. He further said that the differences between a 16" header and a 24" header were largely negligible, unless you are in a restricted class, where every 2 tenths of a horsepower count. So since most of us don't have the time, resources, money, or engine bay space to add and test 8 different header configurations, he said just shoot somewhere in that range, and it will be good enough. I personally went right in the middle, and used 20s.
Last edited by AaronZ34; 10-06-2009 at 08:13 PM.
#25
I found a top mount thats a/c compatiable but i search around and a ram horn design is the best bet for what car an motor i am building . but if anyone is interested the guy said seven hundred bucks.my length question refered to i didn't want to defeat the purpose of a top mount by making it to short but thanks for the info guys .
#26
wow, you're an idiot.
did you ever mention what car you are planning on turboing?
if you are indeed trying to go 2.0 b series you better sleeve it,
but you're not, in fact you don't know ---- about turbos.
and 500-600whp in any fwd is just way too ------- much, there aren't many rear drive cars that have 500+whp
did you ever mention what car you are planning on turboing?
if you are indeed trying to go 2.0 b series you better sleeve it,
but you're not, in fact you don't know ---- about turbos.
and 500-600whp in any fwd is just way too ------- much, there aren't many rear drive cars that have 500+whp
#27
I found a top mount thats a/c compatiable but i search around and a ram horn design is the best bet for what car an motor i am building . but if anyone is interested the guy said seven hundred bucks.my length question refered to i didn't want to defeat the purpose of a top mount by making it to short but thanks for the info guys .
#28
wow, you're an idiot.
did you ever mention what car you are planning on turboing?
if you are indeed trying to go 2.0 b series you better sleeve it,
but you're not, in fact you don't know ---- about turbos.
and 500-600whp in any fwd is just way too ------- much, there aren't many rear drive cars that have 500+whp
did you ever mention what car you are planning on turboing?
if you are indeed trying to go 2.0 b series you better sleeve it,
but you're not, in fact you don't know ---- about turbos.
and 500-600whp in any fwd is just way too ------- much, there aren't many rear drive cars that have 500+whp
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